2turbotoys
Salaminizer
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2007
- Location
- Reading pa
I was going to get the wavetrac, but there are a lot of really bad reviews out there, and it is pretty expensive.
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Makes me want to look into a Torsen diff for my Ford 8.8 before it goes on the car.
Thanks for the input Ben.
As for lifting the rear inner wheel, I'm not sure how much of a problem it is for my car at speed. Doing fast u-turns on the street, my car will definitely unload the rear inner wheel enough that I can't put any power down until I begin straightening up the wheel. Softening the rear bar would definitely help me here, but I'm also really enjoying how the car is handling with the 21mm rear bar.
So let's take the fast u-turn case: in the middle of the turn when my rear inner wheel is unloaded, can I stab the throttle and get the rear end to kick around for a fun little power slide on exit?
It seems to me that in this scenario, the wave device will engage and allow me to have my fun whereas a plain torsen won't be able to do much until I begin straightening the wheel.
Not to hijack this thread... but, I'm in the same realm of choosing a LSD for the Volstang. I chose the TrueTrac... now, there is two types offered. 3.73 and up, and the 3.54 and down.
Would it be stupid to use a 3.73 TrueTrac with a 3.31 gear? Whats the difference in the pre-load?
Not to hijack this thread... but, I'm in the same realm of choosing a LSD for the Volstang. I chose the TrueTrac... now, there is two types offered. 3.73 and up, and the 3.54 and down.
Would it be stupid to use a 3.73 TrueTrac with a 3.31 gear? Whats the difference in the pre-load?
It will be very difficult to get to a situation when you are going fast and hard enough on public roads that you will surpass the abilities of the wavetrac. As long as you don't have major setup issues it shouldn't be a problem from my experience.
Not to hijack this thread... but, I'm in the same realm of choosing a LSD for the Volstang. I chose the TrueTracc over the WaveTrac because it has a better track record of reliabilty. The Wave may be "better" overall, but durability and reliability is more important IMHO... we are Volvo owners, are we not? Plus, ripping apart a diff is beyond my capabilities at the moment.
I have a question for the diff experts. There are two types of TrueTrac offered. 3.73 and up, and the 3.54 and down.
Would it be stupid to use a 3.73 TrueTrac with a 3.31 gear? Whats the difference in the pre-load?
Wavetrac has a lifetime warranty. Not sure what Truetrac offers if anything.
Yeah that's what I was imagining. Are the wavetracs still going to be on sale when they come back in stock?
I just picked up some of your studs and nuts and I'm still trying to decide on wheel spacers. I want to space out the front a bit because I have maybe 2 or 3 mm of clearance between the tire and the strut housing at the moment. I think a mild 15 or 16.5 mm spacing will buy me some room without being in danger of rubbing on the wheel arches. The question is, do I want to add the same amount of spacing to the rear, or bump it up to 25 or 32 mm?
What would be the effect of increasing rear track width relative to the front? I guess it should soften the roll stiffness slightly, but I'm not sure what other effects it will have.
Very cool. But weird. Thank you.No, they are a clutch unit that is simply spring loaded. IOW, they don?t lock harder with more power applied to them the way most clutch limited slip units do.
Take a look here. There is a disassembled G 80 and you can see the clutch plates in the picture.
http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0027
That is correct. The older high-preload was 411 suffix. The 588 is a harder case, better carrier bolt set up.Volvo only used the 3.73 and up center section.
Go with the 912A588 part number, as it's a higher preload diff meant for a rear axle application.
Very cool. But weird. Thank you.
And it?s odd that it has the same code as a GM.
Wavetrac has a lifetime warranty. Not sure what Truetrac offers if anything.
So who is going to pay the labor?