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Old 09-12-2018, 10:22 AM   #26
XxJenoxX
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Mine is 3.1, parts car is long gone and most of the parts with it.

It started right up after work yesterday, so I drove it home and had Sara follow me and take me back to work for the XC. Everybody is home now, just gotta get the time to do some troubleshooting. Which means it needs to stop F7CKING RAINING.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:37 AM   #27
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I swear everyone says not to fire the parts cannon, but sometimes these cars have such issues that are literally so cheap it makes no sense not to, if you know what to fire! They will say you don’t learn that way, but I have

Likelihood of all injectors failing at once? Probably 0%
Likelihood of a bad lh3.1ecu...idk

You can power up the pumps and still have a no start, so you’re probably either lacking injector pulse or more than likely, lacking injector pulse at the wrong time and also lacking spark at the wrong time. That’s why spraying starting fluid in might not always help and had me scratching my head.

As mentioned before you can measure resistance across the CPS. It might be in spec when you measure it one day, and not in spec later on.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:42 AM   #28
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Since the car is sitting spray that crank sensor with liquid wrench or something,many times it's stuck especially if it's been in there for ages.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:02 AM   #29
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Not very easy to troubleshoot when the car starts on the first try.

So yeah, there's no lie a few gallons of water in that car. Decided to clean it out and the floor behind the driver's seat is FULL of water.

Don't really like the looks of the CPS wiring, so it's still on the radar.
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Old 09-13-2018, 12:40 PM   #30
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Just for giggles open your fuel pump relay and see if water has gone in it.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:19 PM   #31
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Already swapped it out once, no dice.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:31 PM   #32
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Water in floor!? Probably fuse holder fretting. Clean the fuses and holders gently. Wire brush is too coarse. Some people say every cloth is the way to go. Dielectric grease can't hurt either.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:23 PM   #33
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The rear floor gets flooded from the heater box drain being clogged. Once the drain clogs the excess water goes to the floor vents into the rear floor.

Access the drain by removing the right side panel on the center dash and shine a light into the middle of the bottom of the heater box. You will see an S shaped hose from the heater going to a hole in the tunnel. Remove the hose by pulling it out. Have lots of towels for cleaning up the water. Clean out debris from the hole in the heater and the hose. There is a service bulleting to slightly trim the edge of the rubber for the hole in the tunnel so the water and debris comes out a bit easier.

I too still don't trust the crank sensor.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:34 PM   #34
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Water in floor!? Probably fuse holder fretting. Clean the fuses and holders gently. Wire brush is too coarse. Some people say every cloth is the way to go. Dielectric grease can't hurt either.
BTDT, that's not it. I knew it leaked on the fuses before so I had a rag jammed above the panel.

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The rear floor gets flooded from the heater box drain being clogged. Once the drain clogs the excess water goes to the floor vents into the rear floor.

Access the drain by removing the right side panel on the center dash and shine a light into the middle of the bottom of the heater box. You will see an S shaped hose from the heater going to a hole in the tunnel. Remove the hose by pulling it out. Have lots of towels for cleaning up the water. Clean out debris from the hole in the heater and the hose. There is a service bulleting to slightly trim the edge of the rubber for the hole in the tunnel so the water and debris comes out a bit easier.

I too still don't trust the crank sensor.
Thanks! If the weather holds out, I'll try that today.


I dragged my big ol dehumidifier out of the basement and ran it on an extension cord for about 4 hours last night after sopping up as much as I could with towels. Gonna do the same again tonight.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:42 PM   #35
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If you're expecting rain for a few days then get a tarp big enough to cover the front and back window. Tie it down with rope. Beats mopping up water every day. Make sure it extends past the front vents.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:43 PM   #36
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I use a shop vac when heavy rain fills my passenger floormat.

Did anyone say check grounds and connections yet?

EDIT: Also get one of those $10-15 pump relays as a backup. Saved me once or twice.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:52 PM   #37
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If you're expecting rain for a few days then get a tarp big enough to cover the front and back window. Tie it down with rope. Beats mopping up water every day. Make sure it extends past the front vents.
Buddy, this is Pittsburgh. I might as well put a roof over the driveway.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:04 PM   #38
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:22 PM   #39
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I wish it was wide enough, I'd have gone there a long time ago.

S tube wasn't clogged. Lots of nature back there, though. I suppose if I really wanted to know, I could vinyl tape all around a tarp over the windshield during the next hard rain.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:28 PM   #40
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If you are going to tape to the car I would only use 3M automotive painters masking tape, the yellow one. It will stick to a dry surface but won't leave tape residue when you remove it. Also won't harm any existing paint. hope you find the source of your problem. Still betting on CPS.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:47 PM   #41
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Of course, it hasn't failed to start ever since, so....probably, but I still can't tell.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:49 PM   #42
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The car doesn't like your job parking lot.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:47 PM   #43
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Need to be working at a Volvo yard. My old '81 242 never failed to start when I worked at one. It knew that, if it did, it might wind up on the other side of the fence (in actuality, I probably would've rolled it into the shop after work, found whatever I needed in the yard or on the shelves in the back, then replaced what went bad).
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:05 PM   #44
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Alright, so how do I backprobe this stupid CPS? I swapped it out for the one Dave sent me, (thanks, Dave!) but it still didn't start. I (very stupidly) didn't try to start it before I changed the sensor out. Which was pretty dumb...Now I can't verify if it was actively having issues or if the sensor is an out of box failure. The rubber jacket on the sensor wiring on the new one was dry-rotted and split open when I was wiring it up, but the jacket on the existing sensor was completely trashed.
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:44 PM   #45
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Omg I will get you a different one. My apologies. I do have a good bougicord used one as well. They do use some type of fast dry rotting insulation on those. Or maybe that's how bad the air is around here? I've bought cars where people have covered the wiring with black tape to get by. I will check in soon.
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:21 PM   #46
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OK well try no. 2 is on the way.
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:24 PM   #47
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It's simply a coil of wire around an iron core plus a magnet. Measure the resistance when unplugged and compare to specs. If it's open circuit, it's bad. Much lower than spec resistance means that the coil is partially shorted.
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:32 PM   #48
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yeah, the new bougicord one that I had fail was bad out of the box. It was open circuit.
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Old 09-27-2018, 05:02 AM   #49
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A bad distributor cap can be hard to detect and cause issues.


* recently had a similar situation, codes read 1-1-1
A failed distributor cap caused a big part of no start/non consistent starting issue.
Visual inspection showed no more than a worn cap.

* Replaced with new Bosch/ also had a slipped timing belt same time which added to the confusion
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:29 AM   #50
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Aww, you didn't have to do that, Dave! But I appreciate it, really. It seems like the rubber jacket just sucks from the factory. I've handled plenty of old parts, new and used, and they didn't have quite the same type of crumble as this did. The one that was on the car seems to point to the same. Half of it was missing!

I did confirm 3v to the sensor connection, so the signal is getting there.
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