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Old 10-17-2018, 10:26 AM   #26
tryingbe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussyvolvo View Post
nice! A breakdown, because the way everything is so spread out, it makes it seem like you only need to buy a few things (admittedly I have most of that already).
My breakdown isn't for a Volvo, but a Turbo Dodge. And I wanted to replace the entire engine harness with new wires.



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Originally Posted by aussyvolvo View Post
I can run an EDIS system (can that be run with any 2 wasted spark coilpacks? Because those I can get from a friends crashed car), without the EDIS box, but with some bips. The tooth wheel is something I'll also ponder on.
Stay away from EDIS. Some people have no issue, some do. Best to stay away.
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Last edited by tryingbe; 10-17-2018 at 10:31 AM..
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:33 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
You''re sort of getting close to the price of the DSM CAS adapter - and then just snag the sensor at a junkyard for $10.
Sorry, forgot to say the install wasn't for a Volvo.
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Old 10-17-2018, 07:58 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
megasquirt (whichever one)
wide band
air temp sensor
map sensor (if not built in)
injector resistors (if injectors are low-z. alternatively, get high-z injectors from a newer volvo)

at that point, decisions can and probably ought to be made. wiring incidentals can add up as well, but on your average volvo those are the things I would consider most required. followed closely by megaviewer so you can get good logs from which to adjust the tune.
I have all those things as it turns out haha, didn't realise how must stuff I had. I plan to just keep my old laptop in the car, as a constaznt display, as this is going to be for drift, so the runs are short etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
My breakdown isn't for a Volvo, but a Turbo Dodge. And I wanted to replace the entire engine harness with new wires.

Stay away from EDIS. Some people have no issue, some do. Best to stay away.
It doesn't matter too much what casr it's for, the general idea, was just a general idea.

As for EDIS, you don't use the EDIS brain, or (as according to linuxman I think), you don't need an EDIS coilpack either. Does that fix the problem? I can't seem to find edis issues, without searching edis, and getting edis brain issues.

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***danger to wallet***
oh my god!!! I plan to have my laptop in my car like that, and having that pop up, or as the desktop, would be so fun hahaha
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Old 10-17-2018, 08:33 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by aussyvolvo View Post
As for EDIS, you don't use the EDIS brain, or (as according to linuxman I think), you don't need an EDIS coilpack either. Does that fix the problem? I can't seem to find edis issues, without searching edis, and getting edis brain issues.
My setup is 36-1 wheel to MS to QuadSpark to a 420a wasted spark coil. There is zero need for EDIS.



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Old 10-17-2018, 09:03 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
My setup is 36-1 wheel to MS to QuadSpark to a 420a wasted spark coil. There is zero need for EDIS.
So I'm looking at what's in the quadspark, and turns out that it's edis without the edis, exactly like what I'm saying. Except for v2.2, msextra's documentation is completely there, and cheaper because I only need parts to run 4 cylinders max.
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:22 PM   #31
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For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8DOM8S8AN View Post
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms
Sounds like a nice simple piece to use.
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:50 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8DOM8S8AN View Post
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms
thanks man, I'm assuming you suggested it because it works with my setup too, so I went out and bought one :-)

The only thing left on my list is a cheap/easy VR sensor, and I just can't seem google the right words. Does anyone have any suggestions? Diyautotune only has hall sensers. Also, why would you run 2 vr sensors?

Last edited by aussyvolvo; 10-20-2018 at 08:10 AM..
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:08 AM   #34
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what year is your car?
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:18 AM   #35
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An '86 360, I'm putting an AQ171c into it, so I'm going to be doing a lot of setting up. (it has a renix b2 sensor on the flywheel, but I can't find what type of sensor it is either)
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:39 AM   #36
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the renix is probably a VR sensor. since the engine is out you can put an lh 2.4 flywheel/flexplate on there and run the oem VR sensor. if you're hard up to fab something, I'd fab something with a hall sensor instead
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:56 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
the renix is probably a VR sensor. since the engine is out you can put an lh 2.4 flywheel/flexplate on there and run the oem VR sensor. if you're hard up to fab something, I'd fab something with a hall sensor instead
sorry, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you've said.

Doesn't the 2.4 use the same system? something like a 40-2, how would the ecu know when its tdc on cylender 1? or does that not matter with wasted?

I've done a lot of reading, and most people say VR is their choice, why do you say hall? I could attach a b234f dizzy with a hall in it, if that's what you mean? (but I also plan to put on adjustable cams gears) If it's a parts thing, I've already bought them, and the diagrams make more sense haha
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:04 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by aussyvolvo View Post
sorry, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you've said.

Doesn't the 2.4 use the same system? something like a 40-2, how would the ecu know when its tdc on cylender 1? or does that not matter with wasted?

I've done a lot of reading, and most people say VR is their choice, why do you say hall? I could attach a b234f dizzy with a hall in it, if that's what you mean? (but I also plan to put on adjustable cams gears) If it's a parts thing, I've already bought them, and the diagrams make more sense haha
Funny enough I'm running the old Renix VR sensor from b200k with 60-2 dog dish.
IIRC the original flywheel had 2 areas of missing tooth so it's no suitable to use with megasquirt, correct me if I'm wrong?

With microsquirt we had that particular VR sensor cutting out around 4000 rpm. After this we adjusted more gap and could run ~6500 rpm.

Adding a 10k resistor between voltage and output line cured completely any tach issues. Car now runs happily to 7500+ rpm

Hall sensor should be more troublefree, but this is not always the case.

Are you planning on using and older megasquirt? Don't plug in the coil wiring before checking for correct ignition settings, YOU COULD fry the coil.

For MS1V3.0 use these settings:
Spark output inverted: NO
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:12 PM   #39
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Oh that's odd, all instructions say yes, thanks for the heads up, you saved me $66. btw ms1 v2.2, but will be ms2 soon, but still on v2.2.

When you say you "adjusted more gap"? Do you mean the resistor thing? Or did you machine the trigger wheel?
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:15 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by aussyvolvo View Post
When you say you "adjusted more gap"?
Gap is the clearance between the sensor and the wheel.
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Old 10-24-2018, 05:32 AM   #41
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hey 8DOM8S8AN this coil set, where did you have it mounted, and is the screws that go through the body grounding anywhere?

ps, thanks tryingbe, I don't know why by brain wasn't working then haha
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Old 10-26-2018, 05:40 PM   #42
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hey 8DOM8S8AN this coil set, where did you have it mounted, and is the screws that go through the body grounding anywhere?

ps, thanks tryingbe, I don't know why by brain wasn't working then haha
Screws are not grounded anywhere.
We mounted it on the firewall and ran ignition wires from there.
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Old 10-26-2018, 05:49 PM   #43
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When you say you "adjusted more gap"? Do you mean the resistor thing? Or did you machine the trigger wheel?
More gap between the sensor and triggerwheel, we just spaced out the sensor from the trigger wheel

If you run into any issues, just add a 10k resistor between signal and voltage wire of the sensor.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:03 AM   #44
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Screws are not grounded anywhere.
We mounted it on the firewall and ran ignition wires from there.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:23 AM   #45
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that's a sexy looking bit of kit. Why the K-jet manifold, and is that a standard radiator?
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:23 PM   #46
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that's a sexy looking bit of kit. Why the K-jet manifold, and is that a standard radiator?
K-jet should flow better than the original and it cost's like 20 euros if you happen to find one. Building a large plenum with custom throttle body will cost +500 euros.

Original radiator, no issues so far.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:27 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8DOM8S8AN View Post
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms
wait, I'm confused, when I look at this manual http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/s...v22.html#logic it only has options for 4cyl cop, or 8 wasted.... should I use spark a, and spark b only? And let the wasted spark do its thing? I'm so unsure haha. (I have my ms2 daughterboard waiting to go on my v2.2 now)
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:33 AM   #48
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Yes, for a 4cyl wasted spark you need only two outputs (A & B).

For Wasted Spark COP there are alternative settings and wiring depending on the platform.

And that coil is holding up well on a 20# boosted red block so I would not hesitate to use it.
You are even able to use stock rear mount plug wires with that coil.
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:36 PM   #49
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...You are even able to use stock rear mount plug wires with that coil.
Very good to know! I’ve been thinking about these since I helped a friend change one out on their VW. Saw the heat sink, and immediately had dirty Volvo thoughts.
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Old 11-02-2018, 11:40 PM   #50
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I'm using kjet in standalone form because I'm a cheap bastard
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