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B20 Engine In Cam Swap

I've used a heat gun and no more to give the crank gear a few thou to make it easier to install. One thing that I find useful is to mark the tooth that I need to hit with a sharpie so that I don't get things misaligned by a tooth when guessing on the helix. I just colour in the tooth on the crank and the valley on the cam gear and wind them together.
 
Canuck said:
I've used a heat gun and no more to give the crank gear a few thou to make it easier to install. One thing that I find useful is to mark the tooth that I need to hit with a sharpie so that I don't get things misaligned by a tooth when guessing on the helix. I just colour in the tooth on the crank and the valley on the cam gear and wind them together.
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Perfect - white out is my best friend
 
Did you have any trouble pulling the cam out? Mine seems to be hitting something. Lifters out, distributor gear out, fuel pump out. It won't even begin to come out-- it's not like I got it an inch out and then a lobe got hung up. Something's preventing it from moving at all.
 
FrankBooth said:
Did you have any trouble pulling the cam out? Mine seems to be hitting something. Lifters out, distributor gear out, fuel pump out. It won't even begin to come out-- it's not like I got it an inch out and then a lobe got hung up. Something's preventing it from moving at all.
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It was a little tough at points, but if you just keep rotating it it'll come out.
 
Cool. Thanks. I haven't had a lot of time. You know- rush out there wiggle the cam a little then rush off to work and so on.
 
It's 'odd' that the cam won't just slide out with everything else out of the way. I don't think there's a way for any oil crud to build up on a surface that needs to slide out through a bearing.

All 8 lifters out, fuel pump (I forgot about that, no fuel pump on any of mine for a very long time), oil pump/distr drive gear removed, thrust plate removed... Giveit a good tug and look at those cam bearings crefully once removed?

What can be a huge PITA is getting those lifters out when one of them got ground to death by a bad lobe (or vice versa, who knows). They're hard to get a grip on, and they can get slightly mushroomed in the lobe destruction process. And you're working through that narrow slot in the block.
 
No block mounted fuel pump, I should say. I stuck an eBay Holley carb fuel pump back near the tank. The DCOE's seemed to act strangely with the block mounted pump, even after I stuck an FPR on it.
 
JohnMc said:
No block mounted fuel pump, I should say. I stuck an eBay Holley carb fuel pump back near the tank. The DCOE's seemed to act strangely with the block mounted pump, even after I stuck an FPR on it.
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Good chance it was fuel cooking at the pump..
.Seen it on my little Saabs so many times that any "warmed up" motor I did I just went with Facet pumps in the trunk floor...
And I had a phenolic isolator for both the pump and the carb.
 
Okay, probably a stupid question, but in the process of pulling out the old camshaft, I definitely had to give it a few tugs, and there were moments where it finally came loose and the next lobe whacked against somethin. Any fears of damaged bearings, or am I probably fine?

As far as I could see the k-cam I pulled out looked to be in great condition still.
 
Probably just banged against the side of the bearings. It's not an LS motor, you can go ahead and look at the cam bearings.

Just bear in mind that installing them can't really be done with the motor in the car (IIRC), unless perhaps you have some very specialized tools.
 
Just to follow up- I took some time, rotated the cam and it came out. Many thanks all.
CRatcliff- Keep the updates coming!
 
Flat chunk of metal, drill two holes, place it across the crank snout, use bolts through the holes into the two threaded holes on the crank gear. If it has them. If not... yeah, good luck with that.
 
The tool on the bottom left is for removing the crank gear.

Cam&CrankTools.jpg
 
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