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Can i use heat to get out a snapped stud on a turbo?

GratefulNed

GratefulNed

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Location
Georgia
Long story short i have a 0.5? long snapped off stud on the flange where the turbo connects to the downpipe i have to get out of my 13c turbo. Ive been soaking it in PB Blaster but no luck yet with the vice grips. Would it be safe to heat it with a propane torch to get it out? I certainly dont want to warp/damage something in the turbo. My other last resort is welding a nut to the stud with my HF 120amp flux welder, but obviously this will heat it as well.
 
The turbine housing was created in heat...... loves it.

MAPP gas gets much hotter than propane. Is the stud exposed or under flush?
 
The lord giveth, the lord taketh away

nitroboie said:
Turbine housing stays in heat... Weld a nut on and get it over with.
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I got the stud out! Welding a nut did the trick. But i forgot to put a towel in the holes and a tiny slag bead may have found its way in..... (read: i?m an idiot). This is my first time ever dealing with a turbo, and i just didnt think about it. :cries:

Is there anything i can do to try to get the potential slag out other than compressed air and prayer? If im pretty much screwed without dissasembling the turbo and cleaning it, im not scared of doing that, but i havent been able to find any guides online. The turbo is a TD04H-13C
 
Could you possibly chase the threads with a thread chaser or maybe a tap/dye set? I’ll bet once you install new studs it won’t be a big deal anyway, assuming there aren’t huge chunks of slag.
 
PromiseRing said:
Could you possibly chase the threads with a thread chaser or maybe a tap/dye set? I?ll bet once you install new studs it won?t be a big deal anyway, assuming there aren?t huge chunks of slag.
Click to expand...

So in other words, don?t sweat the super tiny slaggies that may have gotten in there? There is no visible slag, just didn?t want the turbo to explode because of a stupid mistake.

And yeah, the threads are facked in one spot, hopefully a tap will take care of that.
 
If you're truly concerned, a tight 13c is like $60 shipped, put an ad in the wanted section for a clean one and chock the 60 bones up as a learning experience.

As long as the wheel still spins freely I wouldn't concern myself with it too much.
 
Turbine housing is post-engine, so it should be fine even if a piece got in and happens to break loose some day. Run it.

Unless...it's in the turbine inlet, then you probably want to poke around a little.

The turbine housing is easy to remove from the turbo. It's keyed to the center section with a tiny pin, so if you unbolt the clamp around the center of the housing and then hold the compressor housing with one hand and hammer down towards the ground against the turbine housing with the other hand, it should come off with a few good whacks from a dead blow (plastic coated dead blow works well for this and tends not to damage anything). When putting it back on the center section of the turbo, you'll want to tap it down so it's mated with the center section, put the clamp back on and tighten it, and make sure the turbine shaft spins freely. If the housing goes on crooked and the turbine wheel is dragging on the housing, that's no good (obviously). The locating pin will ensure the housing goes back on in the right position.
 
Get it nice and warm and put a little wax on it. Not too hot or the wax will either vaporize or burn. I've had very good luck with this method on lots of things but not on a turbo yet.
 
GratefulNed said:
So in other words, don’t sweat the super tiny slaggies that may have gotten in there? There is no visible slag, just didn’t want the turbo to explode because of a stupid mistake.

And yeah, the threads are facked in one spot, hopefully a tap will take care of that.
Click to expand...

My apologies, I thought you just meant it got in a bolt hole, not the turbo. As long as it’s not near the exhaust turbine you’ll be fine, exhaust gasses are pushing backwards anyway so no chance of it sucking the slag up.
 
Good luck. I watched my friend use heat and a welder, welding on a nut several times. It took 90 minutes to get that stud out on a TD05-12b. Figured out the that both the turbo exhaust housing and the manifold are both made of cast steel.
 
They sell a removal kit for something like this at lowes. You will need a drill. The idea is to drill a hole into the bolt insert a tapered drill piece hit it with a hammer then twist it off. Once it's loose it will come out easy. https://www.walmart.com/ip/5PCS-Eas...zj_ZerGJWEBqRWRPci__87affAfNGVjRoCUQkQAvD_BwE It worked for me getting a broken stud out of a boat trailer rim and a bolt holding down the coil pack in an XC70
 
casket of beer you break the bolt with welding a nut to it.. it will snap directly after the welded nut... in 9/10 cases i needed to get the turbo out and drill it with HSS/E drillbits.. they are 12.9 qualtity bolts..
 
It's nice that you got it out by welding a nut on it. I had several studs bust off below the surface on the hot side of the turbo. I used these guys to burn them out:

http://brokentap.com/

I also had a broken stud below the surface on the waste gate, since I could see both sides of that part I just used a drill press to drill it out then cleaned it up with a tap.
 
MadDog_945 said:
casket of beer you break the bolt with welding a nut to it.. it will snap directly after the welded nut... in 9/10 cases i needed to get the turbo out and drill it with HSS/E drillbits.. they are 12.9 qualtity bolts..
Click to expand...

I?ll take the beer thanks, i got her out no problem by welding a nut. I prefer an IPA but modelo will do as well
 
A set of left hand drill bits , and a drill motor that goes in reverse has never failed Me . If You start drilling the hole accurately close to the center of the broken bolt , You can continue with larger left hand bits until most of broken bolt is gone , leaving only the thread coil, which can easily be removed. I rarely have to drill it out completely, as one of the left hand bits will usually grab the bolt and unscrew it .I file or grind the end of the broken bolt flat , in order to center punch the bolt accurately.
 
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