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LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation / X1/9 Dallara + K24 Swap

So you went smaller on the TB? I'm not clear after reading.... just a few sips of java so far today.

If YES, that matches what I've read about the large TBs working great at WOT conditions, but terribly off idle and stop & go driving. Sorry about the body work.... I used to do it decades ago. No more.

Yes, I dropped from the 80mm to 72mm to resolve the elevated idle, tip-in & part throttle issues that I just could not adjust out. Made it very unpleasant in-town driving. My wife doesn't want to get in the car until it's fixed, and I have to agree. Driving aggressively, it was fine - but one cannot do that all the time, especially since I like to travel with my wife :D

Yeah, the bodywork. I need to finish the nose. It's just way to f'ing hot out to even think about that. I'll have to wait until Sept/Oct to wrap that up, hopefully.
 
Yes, I dropped from the 80mm to 72mm to resolve the elevated idle, tip-in & part throttle issues that I just could not adjust out. Made it very unpleasant in-town driving. My wife doesn't want to get in the car until it's fixed, and I have to agree.

I don't know how many time I've seen this conundrum on the 4 bangers. Supposedly it is not such an issue to put a large TB on a V8, but the 4 holes don't seem to tolerate too large of a TB without serious off idle issues. I was planning to run the large 960/850 NA TB on my DD, until I found out the 2.5" stock size would support 300+ HP. Boost can find a way.... enough potential difference. From what I vaguely recall about compressible flow, there is a choke point. I doubt most street driven 4 holes ever reach that limit.
 
While I'm waiting on the new TPS, I spent a fair number of hours over the last two days working on the nose again.

Finally figured out a method I'm happy with for reducing the headlamp surround, and a support panel for the spoiler urights.

test fit here prior to bonding
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bonded yesterday, today I added some fibre-reinforced bondo in the larger void

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couple layers of regular bondo/sand later

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little primer on it to check flow into center & top. Gonna need much clean up & detail later

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Feeling OK about the way it's coming along.

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Spoiler & uprights will go in like this. Have to add some sort of attachment method for the uprights under the fixed sections.

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I got the K-Tuned TPS installed yesterday, sets properly to 0? throttle angle at rest stop without any issues. I had to remove the TPS connector from the harness, and repin for the RSX type S switch - and dropped the blue connector down into the bay... took me 20min to find it, had to jack the car up in the rear & hunt for it. Finally found it wedged into the balljoint/control arm. Hopefully that is the end of the drivability issues.

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I fabricated filler sections to streamline the nose/spoiler connection. The details around the spoiler/vertical overlap had to change. Cut back the existing panel to provide about an inch overlap for bonding the new piece flush with existing.

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difficult to tuck the spoiler into place as is - the inner corners interfere with pivoting the uprights under whilst overlapping the outer ridges

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sections bonded so I can move on to filler work tomorrow, hopefully have enough time to unify the sections & have a reasonably finished look. Detail filler & spot putty work will come later

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spoiler uprights cut down to 2" to get it to tuck under. Still may need to angle the inner corners uphill to ease the fitment.

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Got a good amount of work done on the front today. Fill, sand, repeat multiple times :)

U-Pol gold for the skim coats - much finer than 3M Bondo

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Also checking the marker/directional apertures. They needed several add/substract stages to get a better outline

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then after that, some U-Pol inside the headlamp opening surfaces

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then some filler primer to check overall lay of the land

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found I needed to build up the left tuck under the marker - it sat back too far

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Spoiler overlap - I need to build up the seams on the body side of the outlying junctions - I have to even out the gap along the rivet area

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Worked on wrapping up the main nose work & the spoiler connection. Also used a chopped up Volvo spalsh pan to make an air guide

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adding bondo to build up the spoiler to align with the fixed vertical

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several layers later

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aluminum track to make the grille attachment

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several layers of putty, sand, putty & prime later

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Looks pretty good overall

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have to address the rivet attachment to the fender skirts, and that's the worst of it done

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[...] resolve the elevated idle, tip-in & part throttle issues that I just could not adjust out. Made it very unpleasant in-town driving. My wife doesn't want to get in the car until it's fixed, and I have to agree. Driving aggressively, it was fine - but one cannot do that all the time, especially since I like to travel with my wife :D

Isn't it amazing how different it feels, driver vs. passenger? Faced with the same exact shenanigans, one person says "exhilarating" while the other frantically grabs any Oh Sh!t bar within reach. :)

Having just found and read most of this thread, I'm impressed. But I admit my confusion -- there was no conjunction between "I'm dedicated to making the LH Volvo stuff work at any cost" and "I've found a completely different direction to take this project." Why the transition? I'm guessing the Honda motor fell into your lap and you couldn't resist? That little Fiat motor (and control thereof) was starting to look pretty darn good. Made me wonder about doing a similar thing to my own non-Volvo.

I also couldn't quite figure out from the pictures what you did with those frame sections in the middle. Lengthen the wheelbase?

Overall, it looks like you've created a very impressive little Hot Wheels toy. How much actual "Fiat" is left in that thing, anyway? :lol:
 
Isn't it amazing how different it feels, driver vs. passenger? Faced with the same exact shenanigans, one person says "exhilarating" while the other frantically grabs any Oh Sh!t bar within reach. :)

Having just found and read most of this thread, I'm impressed. But I admit my confusion -- there was no conjunction between "I'm dedicated to making the LH Volvo stuff work at any cost" and "I've found a completely different direction to take this project." Why the transition? I'm guessing the Honda motor fell into your lap and you couldn't resist? That little Fiat motor (and control thereof) was starting to look pretty darn good. Made me wonder about doing a similar thing to my own non-Volvo.

I also couldn't quite figure out from the pictures what you did with those frame sections in the middle. Lengthen the wheelbase?

Overall, it looks like you've created a very impressive little Hot Wheels toy. How much actual "Fiat" is left in that thing, anyway? :lol:


I did take the LH 2.4 conversion as far as I could - it ran very well indeed. Just not enough HP to squeeze out of a 1600 that would be commensurate with the revised body work :D

I didn't alter the footprint of the X1/9 in terms of chassis, suspension & steering specification. Not sure what you mean by the frame sections, exactly. I had to section elements for Honda drivetrain clearance .... I bought the drivetrain (JDM), hard to find a US car that would have had only 60K on it, and the JDM K24 has better spec than the US version.

So, it's still Fiat, just improved upon.

Got it off the jack stands yesterday, gave it a quick wash - it looks pretty good overall. I want to drive it for a couple weeks before I pull the drivetrain & finish the undercarriage repairs.

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installed new control arms and caster rod poly bushes -

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Made mount plates that sit inside the frame rail so I could re-install the 960 sway bar - was thinking of the plates used for the 240 balljoints...

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Still have to replace the center tunnel & water pipes also

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'00 V70 AWD rear sway bar end links

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Started cutting off the tunnel cover - to see how bad the pipes were damaged

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Back & forth with the sway bar. Turns out, the 960 bar I got from CA must be off one of the later cars with the revised suspension, the offset of the end links is not the same.

Also, the Volvo online catalog listing for the sway bar bushings is wrong - they list the 1273615 for 22,23mm bars and 1273184 for 21mm bars. The old paper catalog lists them in reverse. I ordered 1273615, on the (incorrect) assumption that the online catalog would supersede the old paper versions in terms of any errors. No way is that correct for the 23mm bar, so I'll have to get 1273184's.

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I switched out the bars, and the pivot angle is much better, but still not happy with the layout

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So, I'm making brackets that will allow me to use the high-misalignment end links used on the back of P1 Volvos & various Mazda & Ford applications.

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I'll make a spacer Sleeve that centers the stud in the bar, where the bushing used to locate. The integrated washer locates nicely in the outer recess.

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Made the spacer sleeves ('top hats") to properly center the end links in the swaybar

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finished the two brackets

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4.00:1 FD gear set came, so that will go in when I pull the drivetrain to do the head gasket

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....and dropped the X off at the bodyshop to have them paint & blend the nose - I can't do that myself

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Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home

Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK

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They did have to redo some of my work on top

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spolier (modified S40 rear bumper cap)...

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hopefully get it all back together over the next week or so

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More front end work needed - probably due to the accident, the r/f wheel bearing has play - makes for a very nasty crunchy feel to the steering & twitchy handling

press out hub

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remove some bits, press out bearing

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uses two v-ring seals similar to 240 -

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new bearing going in

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using a (Volvo) carrier bearing (32008x) race to finish pressing

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reinstall the various seal plates & retainers, Torque spindle to 160ft/lb, done

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Also found the left upper strut mount has deformed - which will mess with the camber, so I modded the Coil overs I made to take Ford Focus top mounts - still using the Kaplhenke 2.5" (Luxe Steer) spring seat from my V70 coilover setup & Volvo 700 pivot bearing (3530341)

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this

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replaces all this

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just had to shave the ridges off the bearing to allow it to sit flush on the back of the strut mount

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much cleaner

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just have to redrill the top plate for the new mount
 
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Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved.

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Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K)

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Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts

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Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40?. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P.

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Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now.

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Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure

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Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge

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S40 rear bumper cover worked out great for the spoiler :D

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Forgot - I also did this to my C30 over the summer

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This past summer I added a VW - based Haldex controller - had to use a VW Gen2 DEM for it to interface.

had to make a harness that would interface with the module/factory wiring

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installed in pass rear seat well

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VW DEM replacing the Volvo unit

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Uses a BT app on my phone

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After much back & forth through mechanical and software issues, I now have full control over the AWD torque split - I can go from 50/50 down to 90/10

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They are developing a version that will work with the Volvo DEM, now that I have worked with him on extracting all the Volvo CAN inputs needed for brake, steering angle, reverse, speed, etc.

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using CAN Analyzer to figure out the inputs

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With the CAN inputs working, I can set the parameters for disengagement when parking, turning corners at low speed, etc., that will normally cause axle bind with a locked diff.

Very happy it is figured out before the winter weather begins in ernest!

Put a Quaife QDF 11J in a spare rear diff I bought, so that can go in now I know the AWD is fully functional

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Removed the electronics & the exhaust

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dropped the drivetrain, or more accurately, lifted the body off it

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cut off the remnants of the water pipe tunnel & removed the damaged water pipes

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Made a replacement (removable ) cover from the cover cut from my parts car

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primed, caulked & painted the inner tunnel

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Fixed the broken AC compressor ear

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pulled the head off today

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pretty sure the reason for the HG leak lies with the liners there is a discernible ridge between 4&3 and 3&2 - I can feel it with my fingernail, so must be at least .005"

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The block was decked 600 miles ago when I had the bore & hone to take care of the rust in #4 cylinder.

my whiteblock decking for comparison - pretty sure the Honda block should be equally flat

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So turns out it's not as dire as I imagined - spoke with the machine shop, and he lent me one of the certified flat bar stock they use for final decking. I went over the block with 180 emery liberally lubricated with wd40 (after blocking off all the oil & water ports) and was able to get the ridges gone without any drama, just about 1/2 hour - 45 mins work. Should be able to assemble the motor after work tomorrow, I hope

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Your 4x4x4x4 jack extension looks like a death trap!!

I know, right?. I incrementally jacked up the rear, setting the jack stands, then added another block and so on until I got the space I needed to get the motor out. It wasn't as hairy as it looks.

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When I did the subframe mods, I used my engine hoist and custom brackets to attach to the inner frame rails in the trunk. Problem there is that the legs really make the whole thing very awkward.

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