Car setup for the 6/1-2/19 Lucky Dog Racing League event at Pacific Raceways. Changes are highlighted in red!
Engine:
-B230F .030" over(lower compression on cylinder 4, maybe dirty rings, will recheck)
-405 head with mild port work and stiffer springs, stock valves, .123" shaved, exhaust valve unshrouded and chamber re-shaped slightly to lower compression. Also added a single groove to the large quench pad for good measure(maybe). Chamber size roughly measured is 44-45cc.
-B21F K-jet intake manifold with injector bungs added.
-ENEM K13 camshaft with .015-.017" valve clearances. I think the camshaft timing gear is set at 3? advanced with the gear set as close to the factory timing mark as possible. With it 3? advanced it looks to point closer to the stock timing mark.
-850T orange top injectors, just cleaned by Dr. Injector.
-Nathaninwa throttle body adapter/elbow to 960 throttle body which is very sensitive off idle. Part of that is due to where in the load maps the car is pulling data from and the high idle, so as soon as you touch it the ignition timing wants to jump up high. I've tamed it down some by reducing ignition timing at lower rpm where we don't really drive much(low rpm cruise).
-012 AMM with custom tuning in 146 EZK and 933 ECU.
-Factory B21-B230 exhaust manifold with mild port clean-up going into a custom 2-1 downpipe with a flare/cone after the merge up to a 3" back setup with a super turbo junk muffler to keep the volume down(need to redo the entire exhaust aft of the downpipe at somepoint, it's "rough").
-82? C B20 thermostat.
-Valvoline VR1 racing oil, 10w30.
-Stock oil pan at the moment with an Accusump for help if needed.
Drivetrain:
-Ford T5 rebuilt with a 2.95 first main gearset and a .80 fifth gear(just had it done). Steeda shifter with the shift lever straightened. Cheap rubber trans mount. Fresh Redline D4 ATF.
-4.56 rear end with a Truetrac LSD(just had it set up). Fresh Redline 75w-90 gear oil(should we go thicker?).
-Factory smaller rear driveshaft with front section modified to have the T5 slip on the front joint. Using a semi truck center support bearing wedged in place to keep the double slip section from walking too much.
-Custom, solid "link arm poly bushing" engine mounts built last year. They're obnoxious, and turned the body into a loud speaker for engine vibrations so even though the exhaust and intake are relatively quiet, inside the car hurts your head and makes your hands tingle when you get out after a long stint.
Suspension:
-IPD front swaybar? IPD rear swaybar with adjustments but links to chassis are at a relatively steep angle. Set rear bar in the middle setting(still need to relocate the body mounts so the links are more vertical).
-Vintage R-Sport "Rally" spec shocks all around. 552189 fronts and 552190 rears.
-225lb rear springs, 950lb 8” fronts.
-Delrin bushings and reinforced swaybar mounts on front control arms(angle iron added to forward edge).
-Boxed rear trailing arms with newer Volvo rubber bushings throughout.
-Adjustable stock panhard rod with at least one or both ends in poly, can't remember.
-Corner weighted the car with Marc in the driver's seat. Removed a 1/8" spacer from the left rear upper spring perch to increase weight on LF and RR to improve corner weight to better than 50.6%(I think with swaybars disconnected). Front/rear weight is 51.3%/48.7%. Left/Right is 51.6%/48.4%. Total weight with Marc was 2540lbs with at least half a tank of fuel.
Brakes:
-Vented 164 front brake rotors with 240 ATE front brake calipers and stock Volvo 240 pads.
-Stock 140 Girling rear brake pads with Volvo 140/240 Girling pads. Front and rear pads were worn out after Saturday's 7hr race(unknown starting thicknesses). Installed new Volvo pads for Sunday's 7hrs. Pad thickness after the race is 7-8mm up front and 4-5mm in the back. Need more rear cooling.
-Modified front backing plates with ducting from the front bumper openings.
-Removed rear backing plates, no e-brake parts and very poor ducting(far from rotor) made from early 140 defrost vent/tubing zip tied to the lower trailing arms.
-SS lines throughout, rear brake bias valves adjusted for a little more rear bite.
Body:
-Fiberglass front lip spoiler
-Aluminum decklid spoiler.
-Plastic rear quarter windows pushed out at the back to vent and match the rain gutter.
-Plastic rear window.
-Plastic wind deflectors on either side of the windshield pushing air over the rain gutters
-Rally roof vent.
-Cut a hole in the hood and built a duct from mid-radiator on up to vent the radiator.
-Marc also made aluminum headlight panels, left one drilled and dimpled for inlet to our airbox. No front lights.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's a quick write up for the weekend, more info on our FB page of course.
We had a successful outing at Pacific Raceways this past weekend with Eric Mollerstuen, Marc and I joined by Gil Markham who owns the #820 Snap Oversteer MR2. We finished 12th overall on Saturday and 7th in class even though we started the race 2 laps down and weren't exactly trying hard. Sunday we were in 12th overall again but 5th in class(a C and some A class cars cleaned up their act!). Our Facebook page has a lot of the race updates for the weekend with some pictures and out of car video as well. Eric may have some in car video from Sunday we'll look into later.
The car ran and handled like a champ, except there is an issue with the tuning that had it running richer than it was back at the PIR track day last month. My attempt to make it run leaner for Sunday ended up making it run richer and we ran out, or almost ran out of gas in 3 of our 4 stints that lost us around 6 laps total and kept us from fighting for a B class 3rd place finish and 9th overall. I was hunting down 11th at the end of my stint when I ran out of fuel coming to the back of the track, grinding to a halt maybe 20-30 feet from the pit entry with just over 2 laps of time remaining. I ended up riding the starter to get out of Little Indy to let the race finish under green and prevent getting hit. I was using 5th gear through Big Indy(T2), as well as through turns 5A, 5B and 6 on up the hill to conserve fuel but it wasn't enough. The car didn't have a ton of power up the hill, but it didn't seem like I was losing much as long as I kept my speed up through 5B where the car struggles a little to get turned in and over the apex curbing. An early turn in and roll on the throttle there was working for me. The gearing was short and probably good for a sprint there with the rev limiter pushed up, but slightly taller tires(23.9/24" instead of the 23") would've been better for economy and when the car picks up some more HP.
We were able to get the shifter bent straight and it was much nicer. The gas pedal was a little farther from the brake pedal than preferred so Saturday we made a little plate to make it larger and closer to the brake pedal. It became apparent on Sunday that the brake pedal was getting below the throttle and it wasn't the great improvement we hoped for, though. Adjustments will be made for PIR.
The car handled very well with the new R-Sport Rally shocks, and it still felt soft even though they're much stiffer than before with the car happy to drive anywhere at any time. It was very controllable at the limit and neutral, you can steer it nicely with throttle, just how it should be. It was one of the fastest cars coming out of 3B! The stock Volvo brake pads did us well, never fading, very progressive and somewhat hard to lock up with the small brake booster on there. They were gone after Saturday's race so we put on a new set for Sunday and will have to check how much pad we used in a full day of green flag racing at Pacific. The Saturday pads had been used for a track day and possibly some racing last year, I can't remember off the top of my head when we changed them last. The rear tires heat up a lot more than the fronts with the rear swaybar installed(medium setting was used this weekend), but I think the tire temperatures showed we had things pretty dialed in for the outside tires at Pacific.
For the tuning, I will have to check some things to see if there's something else amiss that caused my Saturday night adjustments to not have the desired effect on Sunday. I need to get in touch with someone about some dyno time to try and dial it in better. Any contacts for reasonable dyno time in the next month that you guys know of around PDX?
A surprise of sorts was that the oil pressure, while low when hot at 43psi or so, never dropped noticeably in any of the turns. We never had to turn the Accusump on and we don't have any baffling in the current oil pan. The oil was 10w30 Valvoline VR1, so we will go back to something a little thicker to get the peak hot oil pressure back up a little higher. A warm compression test post race showed 205, 210, 205 and 193psi, cylinders 1-4 respectively. The #4 cylinder has been low since we started using this block last year after the Pacific engine failed, but it seems to actually be improving or at least holding steady compared to earlier compression tests.
I'll add more info in later, but in the meantime, check out the General Leif's Facebook Page!
Engine:
-B230F .030" over(lower compression on cylinder 4, maybe dirty rings, will recheck)
-405 head with mild port work and stiffer springs, stock valves, .123" shaved, exhaust valve unshrouded and chamber re-shaped slightly to lower compression. Also added a single groove to the large quench pad for good measure(maybe). Chamber size roughly measured is 44-45cc.
-B21F K-jet intake manifold with injector bungs added.
-ENEM K13 camshaft with .015-.017" valve clearances. I think the camshaft timing gear is set at 3? advanced with the gear set as close to the factory timing mark as possible. With it 3? advanced it looks to point closer to the stock timing mark.
-850T orange top injectors, just cleaned by Dr. Injector.
-Nathaninwa throttle body adapter/elbow to 960 throttle body which is very sensitive off idle. Part of that is due to where in the load maps the car is pulling data from and the high idle, so as soon as you touch it the ignition timing wants to jump up high. I've tamed it down some by reducing ignition timing at lower rpm where we don't really drive much(low rpm cruise).
-012 AMM with custom tuning in 146 EZK and 933 ECU.
-Factory B21-B230 exhaust manifold with mild port clean-up going into a custom 2-1 downpipe with a flare/cone after the merge up to a 3" back setup with a super turbo junk muffler to keep the volume down(need to redo the entire exhaust aft of the downpipe at somepoint, it's "rough").
-82? C B20 thermostat.
-Valvoline VR1 racing oil, 10w30.
-Stock oil pan at the moment with an Accusump for help if needed.
Drivetrain:
-Ford T5 rebuilt with a 2.95 first main gearset and a .80 fifth gear(just had it done). Steeda shifter with the shift lever straightened. Cheap rubber trans mount. Fresh Redline D4 ATF.
-4.56 rear end with a Truetrac LSD(just had it set up). Fresh Redline 75w-90 gear oil(should we go thicker?).
-Factory smaller rear driveshaft with front section modified to have the T5 slip on the front joint. Using a semi truck center support bearing wedged in place to keep the double slip section from walking too much.
-Custom, solid "link arm poly bushing" engine mounts built last year. They're obnoxious, and turned the body into a loud speaker for engine vibrations so even though the exhaust and intake are relatively quiet, inside the car hurts your head and makes your hands tingle when you get out after a long stint.
Suspension:
-IPD front swaybar? IPD rear swaybar with adjustments but links to chassis are at a relatively steep angle. Set rear bar in the middle setting(still need to relocate the body mounts so the links are more vertical).
-Vintage R-Sport "Rally" spec shocks all around. 552189 fronts and 552190 rears.
-225lb rear springs, 950lb 8” fronts.
-Delrin bushings and reinforced swaybar mounts on front control arms(angle iron added to forward edge).
-Boxed rear trailing arms with newer Volvo rubber bushings throughout.
-Adjustable stock panhard rod with at least one or both ends in poly, can't remember.
-Corner weighted the car with Marc in the driver's seat. Removed a 1/8" spacer from the left rear upper spring perch to increase weight on LF and RR to improve corner weight to better than 50.6%(I think with swaybars disconnected). Front/rear weight is 51.3%/48.7%. Left/Right is 51.6%/48.4%. Total weight with Marc was 2540lbs with at least half a tank of fuel.
Brakes:
-Vented 164 front brake rotors with 240 ATE front brake calipers and stock Volvo 240 pads.
-Stock 140 Girling rear brake pads with Volvo 140/240 Girling pads. Front and rear pads were worn out after Saturday's 7hr race(unknown starting thicknesses). Installed new Volvo pads for Sunday's 7hrs. Pad thickness after the race is 7-8mm up front and 4-5mm in the back. Need more rear cooling.
-Modified front backing plates with ducting from the front bumper openings.
-Removed rear backing plates, no e-brake parts and very poor ducting(far from rotor) made from early 140 defrost vent/tubing zip tied to the lower trailing arms.
-SS lines throughout, rear brake bias valves adjusted for a little more rear bite.
Body:
-Fiberglass front lip spoiler
-Aluminum decklid spoiler.
-Plastic rear quarter windows pushed out at the back to vent and match the rain gutter.
-Plastic rear window.
-Plastic wind deflectors on either side of the windshield pushing air over the rain gutters
-Rally roof vent.
-Cut a hole in the hood and built a duct from mid-radiator on up to vent the radiator.
-Marc also made aluminum headlight panels, left one drilled and dimpled for inlet to our airbox. No front lights.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's a quick write up for the weekend, more info on our FB page of course.
We had a successful outing at Pacific Raceways this past weekend with Eric Mollerstuen, Marc and I joined by Gil Markham who owns the #820 Snap Oversteer MR2. We finished 12th overall on Saturday and 7th in class even though we started the race 2 laps down and weren't exactly trying hard. Sunday we were in 12th overall again but 5th in class(a C and some A class cars cleaned up their act!). Our Facebook page has a lot of the race updates for the weekend with some pictures and out of car video as well. Eric may have some in car video from Sunday we'll look into later.
The car ran and handled like a champ, except there is an issue with the tuning that had it running richer than it was back at the PIR track day last month. My attempt to make it run leaner for Sunday ended up making it run richer and we ran out, or almost ran out of gas in 3 of our 4 stints that lost us around 6 laps total and kept us from fighting for a B class 3rd place finish and 9th overall. I was hunting down 11th at the end of my stint when I ran out of fuel coming to the back of the track, grinding to a halt maybe 20-30 feet from the pit entry with just over 2 laps of time remaining. I ended up riding the starter to get out of Little Indy to let the race finish under green and prevent getting hit. I was using 5th gear through Big Indy(T2), as well as through turns 5A, 5B and 6 on up the hill to conserve fuel but it wasn't enough. The car didn't have a ton of power up the hill, but it didn't seem like I was losing much as long as I kept my speed up through 5B where the car struggles a little to get turned in and over the apex curbing. An early turn in and roll on the throttle there was working for me. The gearing was short and probably good for a sprint there with the rev limiter pushed up, but slightly taller tires(23.9/24" instead of the 23") would've been better for economy and when the car picks up some more HP.
We were able to get the shifter bent straight and it was much nicer. The gas pedal was a little farther from the brake pedal than preferred so Saturday we made a little plate to make it larger and closer to the brake pedal. It became apparent on Sunday that the brake pedal was getting below the throttle and it wasn't the great improvement we hoped for, though. Adjustments will be made for PIR.
The car handled very well with the new R-Sport Rally shocks, and it still felt soft even though they're much stiffer than before with the car happy to drive anywhere at any time. It was very controllable at the limit and neutral, you can steer it nicely with throttle, just how it should be. It was one of the fastest cars coming out of 3B! The stock Volvo brake pads did us well, never fading, very progressive and somewhat hard to lock up with the small brake booster on there. They were gone after Saturday's race so we put on a new set for Sunday and will have to check how much pad we used in a full day of green flag racing at Pacific. The Saturday pads had been used for a track day and possibly some racing last year, I can't remember off the top of my head when we changed them last. The rear tires heat up a lot more than the fronts with the rear swaybar installed(medium setting was used this weekend), but I think the tire temperatures showed we had things pretty dialed in for the outside tires at Pacific.
For the tuning, I will have to check some things to see if there's something else amiss that caused my Saturday night adjustments to not have the desired effect on Sunday. I need to get in touch with someone about some dyno time to try and dial it in better. Any contacts for reasonable dyno time in the next month that you guys know of around PDX?
A surprise of sorts was that the oil pressure, while low when hot at 43psi or so, never dropped noticeably in any of the turns. We never had to turn the Accusump on and we don't have any baffling in the current oil pan. The oil was 10w30 Valvoline VR1, so we will go back to something a little thicker to get the peak hot oil pressure back up a little higher. A warm compression test post race showed 205, 210, 205 and 193psi, cylinders 1-4 respectively. The #4 cylinder has been low since we started using this block last year after the Pacific engine failed, but it seems to actually be improving or at least holding steady compared to earlier compression tests.
I'll add more info in later, but in the meantime, check out the General Leif's Facebook Page!
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