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Svea - 1968 220 -

Take that c-clip out and it will make sense. Did you buy all of Dan's B20 turbo stuff?

I was too late for all of it. I did get the Avalance 36-1 crank wheel, modified timing cover, and manifold from him. Then Nathan made me up a rail and I picked up the ms stuffs from all over. It's finally starting to come together... I still need to install my brakes, but I'm going to need a press, and everyone who has one isnt available on the weekends...
 
The press is for the new wheel studs for that wilwood swap. The other half wants me to do the brakes before she'll let me turbocharge it. I'm hoping that it will all be done by ipd, but cash flow is tight. I'm trying to get my house ready to sell so I can find one with a garage. My current lot won't allow me to build one without 5 foot setbacks leaving me with no yard.
 
You should be able to hammer the studs out and back in with no issue. I had access to a press but I ended up not using it. I didn't even have to use the big hammer :lol:
 
You should be able to hammer the studs out and back in with no issue. I had access to a press but I ended up not using it. I didn't even have to use the big hammer :lol:

hmmm, well that sounds interesting... I'd really like to not bugger up the old discs, just in case I either need to swap back, or my other idea was to make a bracket and put them on the back until I get my new rearend. This one is probably going to smash into a million bits when I start throwing torques at it :rofl: I have most of the stuff to do the T5 5speed, just missing the trans, and driveline... but I want to run a winters quickchange rear so I'm going to hold out until I can get that also.

I have some scrap steel, bottle jack, and an old engine stand, so if I cant get my hands on a press I'll make one. We'll see what the next few weeks turns out.
 
I smacked my old ones out with a regular claw hammer. I think I used like a 1# sledge to get the new ones in. I'll see if it works again on the ARP studs this time around. Also I need a turbo b20.
 
So you guys are rolling with turbo's eh? I was thinking long term about a supercharger similar to the Judson style. What were your reasons for gong turbo instead of supercharger?
 
So you guys are rolling with turbo's eh? I was thinking long term about a supercharger similar to the Judson style. What were your reasons for gong turbo instead of supercharger?

problem with judsons are the cost/benefit ratio. They're spendy, and replacement parts are spendy, and the vanes are a wear item... inside the blower :wtf:. going with a supercharger would be ok considering the displacement, but cost wise a turbo setup will beat out a supercharger setup when you figure out all the R&D, fabrication, and horsepower gain per $. At this point I figure about 500.00 for the +t (not counting the MS install). An efficient supercharger (lysholm screw type) runs about 1300.00$ for the head unit alone.
 
So I got my 15g reclocked last night. Now I need to mill and port the flange to mate to the T3 flange on the manifold, and touch up the crack in the wastegate hole, get oil lines/water lines (should be on their way), oil cooler, intercooler, intake plumbing. I don't think it will be turbo'd for IPD, but I'm driving it down no matter what.
 
So you guys are rolling with turbo's eh? I was thinking long term about a supercharger similar to the Judson style. What were your reasons for gong turbo instead of supercharger?

I have looked into superchargers a fair bit. Eaton style superchargers are not the most efficient but as they do not compress air internally so they do not generate heat when not producing boost. For normal street driving you are rarely in the boost so they tend to be more efficient overall. Lysholm and centrifugal compressors are more efficient but compress and generate heat continuously, they are best matched for pure performance applications.

Most OEM applications used an Eaton compressors, this also makes it easier to find them used and in the JY. Mercedes C230s used both a M45 and M62 compressor which will mate well with a B20. The drawback with the Mercedes units is the lack of an internal bypass. Toyota used a M62 unit on Tacomas. I think they would fit nicely inside an Amazon but have not got my hands on one to measure. Mini Coopers also used an M45 unit that would fit. Chevy Cobalts used an M62 but the nose of the unit is too long to fit in an Amazon.

A supercharger will require a little more fabrication than a Turbo to get the mounting down. Not to mention it will require a custom made pulley, which isn't going to be cheap.

Wait don't you have access to a lathe?:oogle:

Sorry to derail cwdodson88's awesome build thread.
 
Agreed, I'll pm ya. Chris the build is awesome, keep up the good work and get a good sound clip of the exhaust post turbo :-D
 
Mike, no worries on the derail, I like the supercharger discussion....

As far as superchargers go, any positive displacement supercharger (if mounted after the throttle plate without a BOV) will be producing boost and heat no matter what the kind (eaton/roots, lysholm screw, rotary vane/shorrock/judson) because they compress air at constant rate of liters/revolution even at idle it will be enough (if sized correctly) to overcome engine vacuum. Now, centrifugal superchargers are typically mounted pre-throttle, and needing a BOV in order to not blow a closed throttle plate into tiny bits into the intake, will produce effect similar to a turbo. lag will be present to an extent, and boost will follow an RPM based linear curve until turbine speeds are maxed. Which slightly changes the benefit. The enhancements of the centrifugal over a positive displacement is going to be the drag which is decreased when using a centrifugal pump. But the boost will still only rise with RPM and on a direct line with it. Turbos, since they spool solely by the volume of air being driven out can be much more efficient because the drive is not restricted by RPM. So in a scenario where a supercharger puts down about 20 psi at 5k because of the drive ratio and RPM, a properly set up turbo can achieve this by 2k or 3k, and keep that pressure constant until the redline with the use of wastegates. And since there is no boost at cruise (unlike a roots/screw charger) fuel economy goes up.

sspony, I will get before and after clips for ya!

andrew, I will actually be using a similar honda radiator like what you picked up recently, and the IC will be a same side in/out unit... I think it was 14" tall and 17" wide.
 
Yeah I still need to get the radiator mounted but I haven't figured out how I'm gonna secure the top. I'm thinking two brackets that will bolt in the factory weld nut for the radiator and l'll just drill two holes in the lower support so that it can rest in there on top of some rubber grommets.
 
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So its a 23" wide 11" tall IC with inlet and outlet on the same side. The compressor will be pumping the air down, then 90 forward>90 into the IC, then out of the top tube and 90 right into the stock FI intake location. I have a turbo 850 throttle body that I was going to have adapted to the K-Jet intake I have, that would leave me with less holes to plug, and a bit easier idle control locating. Right now I don't have any idle control so the holes are plugged.
 
An eaton compressor never changes the volume of the air inside the supercharger, it basically moves a fixed volume of air from one side to the other. If it is moving air faster that can be consumed by the engine then the air is compressed outside of the supercharger. With the bypass valve open, the only compression will be to overcome any pressure drop in the bypass valve. A Judson moves a fixed quantity of air through a decreasing volume inside the supercharger. Both move a fixed volume of air per revolution but manage to due it in different ways. A Judsun (and others) with the bypass open will produce heat from friction and compression while an eaton will only produce heat from friction.

Either way a turbo charger really is a more practical way to go, more adjustable power with better economy. My last few modern cars have been turbocharged and a much as the technology has brought us almost instant power, I really enjoy the quick response of the Amazon and would like to maintain that characteristic if I go forced induction.
 
Yeah I still need to get the radiator mounted but I haven't figured out how I'm gonna secure the top. I'm thinking two brackets that will bolt in the factory weld nut for the radiator and l'll just drill two holes in the lower support so that it can rest in there on top of some rubber grommets.

I was thinking something similar, but since its smaller, I thought about just taking the current core support and using it to make a template and remaking the entire thing from where it spot welds to the inner fenders.
 
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