• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Svea - 1968 220 -

carbonmike said:
An eaton compressor never changes the volume of the air inside the supercharger, it basically moves a fixed volume of air from one side to the other. If it is moving air faster that can be consumed by the engine then the air is compressed outside of the supercharger. With the bypass valve open, the only compression will be to overcome any pressure drop in the bypass valve. A Judson moves a fixed quantity of air through a decreasing volume inside the supercharger. Both move a fixed volume of air per revolution but manage to due it in different ways. A Judsun (and others) with the bypass open will produce heat from friction and compression while an eaton will only produce heat from friction.

Either way a turbo charger really is a more practical way to go, more adjustable power with better economy. My last few modern cars have been turbocharged and a much as the technology has brought us almost instant power, I really enjoy the quick response of the Amazon and would like to maintain that characteristic if I go forced induction.
Click to expand...


Correct... but they seem to generate a ton of heat even if its only from internal friction. My AC guru had a thunder chicken super coupe and monitoring intake temps, even with the bypass open and the air to water IC, charge temps were well above his turbo SVO. But after he was done with frankensteining it and hitting the IC plate with the AC system refrigerant instead of water, the temps were a lot better.
 
AndrewNance said:
Yeah I could see that too since you're gonna be cutting it anyway for IC piping.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that cutting the core support from fender to fender just under the "removable" piece (if you get what I'm saying) that holds the hood seal, and remaking that portion with the holes for IC plumbing and air filter having the air filter between the 2 holes for the IC plumbing. But that begs for the question of where to put the air filter :-P and I think that if its out front like that I will need a water baffle over the whole thing so it doesnt drown in the rain.
 
cwdodson88 said:
Correct... but they seem to generate a ton of heat even if its only from internal friction. My AC guru had a thunder chicken super coupe and monitoring intake temps, even with the bypass open and the air to water IC, charge temps were well above his turbo SVO. But after he was done with frankensteining it and hitting the IC plate with the AC system refrigerant instead of water, the temps were a lot better.
Click to expand...


That's an awesome fix! Those Stupor Coupes used older generation blowers, the latest ones are 10-15% more efficient.
 
basically he just T'd off the lines to the evap core and refabbed the IC plate to handle the pressurized refrigerant. It was pretty cool until it popped a headgasket... now its got a 4.6 in it.
 
Well, not much new. I received some oil/coolant lines for the 15g, but still waiting on the correct/rest of them. I also got tired of not having tunes in the wagon, so I installed some infinity's, but they're blown, so waiting on something else. So this week will be interesting. I'm going to finish welding my J pipe, and add another support that will go from the old alt bolt to hold that twerbo up, then maybe I can dig out the sandblaster and clean the whole thing.

Other than that, oil change/transmission fluid change is on the books... Need to put the 4th gear switch in (my dumbass hit the od button in reverse, BAD NOISES!)
 
Well I got my manifold all welded back together.
IMG_2675%5B1%5D.JPG

IMG_2676%5B1%5D.JPG

IMG_2678%5B1%5D.JPG

IMG_2683%5B1%5D.JPG


Not too bad for using a $150.00 Flux core welder.
 
AndrewNance said:
You should be able to hammer the studs out and back in with no issue. I had access to a press but I ended up not using it. I didn't even have to use the big hammer :lol:
Click to expand...

Hammering them out is OK, but to reinstall you can cut a piece of pipe/tubing with the appropriate ID to the appropriate length. Put the new stud in place, slip the tube over, install a thick flat washer, put a lug nut on upside down and tighten. This will pull the new lug into place.
 
evolvo67 said:
Hammering them out is OK, but to reinstall you can cut a piece of pipe/tubing with the appropriate ID to the appropriate length. Put the new stud in place, slip the tube over, install a thick flat washer, put a lug nut on upside down and tighten. This will pull the new lug into place.
Click to expand...

This sounds like something I can manage. I'll be getting new lug nuts and fittings on Friday this week, and probably installing next weekend. Sister in laws wedding this weekend so I'm tied up.
 
AndrewNance said:
Yeah I've heard of that too. I doubt I'll try it with my 4" studs though. I'd need a super deep socket :lol:
Click to expand...

I've got some DOM tubing that I can cut to make some spacer dealies to put on the stud... I'm just worried about smacking them out with a hammer... For some reason I have visions of the disc shattering. :rofl:
 
Last edited:
carbonmike said:
Have you considered water/meth injection?
Click to expand...

yes, and its still on the table. My only draw back at the moment is where to put the tank, and how big can I make it. I've also been seeing the Cry02 systems that I think could be kinda cool. Crazy think would be to use an intake chiller and fuel chiller inline off the same tank... But I'm trying to wrap my head around some sort of reusable chilling system.
 
cwdodson88 said:
yes, and its still on the table. My only draw back at the moment is where to put the tank, and how big can I make it. I've also been seeing the Cry02 systems that I think could be kinda cool. Crazy think would be to use an intake chiller and fuel chiller inline off the same tank... But I'm trying to wrap my head around some sort of reusable chilling system.
Click to expand...

What is your goal? Dragstrip or fast street car?
 
carbonmike said:
What is your goal? Dragstrip or fast street car?
Click to expand...

DD (its 5 miles from one end of town to the other), occasional autocross, 1/8th and 1/4 drag, twisties. Ultimately, goal is to blow the doors off my brothers 3300# 1998 Mustang Cobra 4.6, in what ever manner seems fit. He's running about 330 at the wheels after a BBK intake, full exhaust cat delete, and slightly bumped fuel pressure.

So if my calculations are correct hes putting down 1hp/10.2#, so I'd need to pump out at least 275 HP to top him.
 
evolvo67 said:
Hammering them out is OK, but to reinstall you can cut a piece of pipe/tubing with the appropriate ID to the appropriate length. Put the new stud in place, slip the tube over, install a thick flat washer, put a lug nut on upside down and tighten. This will pull the new lug into place.
Click to expand...

Or more simply use the nut that holds the steering wheel on, from a 240 with the lug nut upside down.
 
cwdodson88 said:
I've got some DOM tubing that I can cut to make some spacer dealies to put on the stud... I'm just worried about smacking them out with a hammer... For some reason I have visions of the disc shattering. :rofl:
Click to expand...

You'll be good. Don't worry about it. What are you doing for fuel in this thing? I'd read the thread again but I'm on my phone.
 
its a Professional Products Powerflow 255lph

And its loud as F&*K, so I'm thinking about a different solution.

Right now, since the 122 tank isnt baffled very well and the pickup freequently sucks air, I have a MrGasket carb pump filling a surge tank, then the Powerflow feeding the rail, returning to the surge tank, then back to the main tank through the sender.
 
So are you using any kind of intank pump? I'm thinking of just using a fuel cell with a sump on the bottom and one Bosch 044 that I have already. I'll just have to use my stock sender with whatever I get.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top