oldschoolvolvo
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- Lancaster, PA
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Ford 302 cooling system tweaking
- Thread starter BeaverMeat
- Start date
Toybox
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- Dec 31, 2018
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- SF Bay Area
Without a doubt, you have identified the problem perfectly. If it cools down with more airflow, then that's what it wants.
New thermostat won't help a bit. That affects only the engine minimum temperature, not the maximum.
New radiator is unlikely to help unless this one is clogged, in which case cleaning is a better option. The diesel version is a stout unit, physically wider than the gas version. Compare the square inches to the Mustang and it's a little smaller but not much. The average radiator shop loves the old metal units compared to the aluminum/plastic disposable things sold today, even though it's getting more expensive to source core material for repair.
Some folks rationalize that V8 heat is normal. But for the folks who have fixed the issue, the secret is fans. Gotta install as much airflow as you can fit, and a charging system to support it. (I never found a mechanical fan clutch with a short enough fore-aft distance to squeeze in there, and not for lack of trying.)
Folks like Dave Barton and Michael Yount talk about how many Amps the fans draw, as a reasonably good substitute for a CFM measurement. In general, it seems that if you don't supply at least 20-30A, it's going to have that issue at idle. Some folks toss around even higher numbers. Depends on your climate.
Looks like a PRV rad from a 260.
Kjets On a Plane
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- Nov 12, 2002
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- Californicated Oregone
^This/PRV/Stock 260 there/larger inlet/outlets than Diseasel, but both old by now/make sure it's any good.
BeaverMeat
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- Aug 8, 2020
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- Vancouver Island
How does the PRV rad compare to the Diesel in size?
BeaverMeat
Active member
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- Aug 8, 2020
- Location
- Vancouver Island
I am also very concerned with overheating.
This is the setup I had on a 305 conversion I did about 15 years ago.
A pusher, two pullers and a fan cooled oil cooler.
The only time I had a problem was sitting in traffic for 2 hours, 90+ degrees outside and the A/C blasting. All was well until the fuse socket melted.
BTW this was fed by a 180 amp alternator.
Once I plum in the A/C I'll have to rethink the cooling system. The engine still has all the tubing and the compressor so I might as well use it... I'll probably have to change out the compressor to a newer one from an Exploder so I can use modern coolant.
Kjets On a Plane
Active member
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- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Californicated Oregone
Same thing really, just larger inlets/outlets in different locations/orientations.
If you have/know anyone with relevant metal skills, replace the inlets/outlets on your existing & clean it, it uses all the surface area pretty effectively/volvo didn't use sub-standard materials on those.
Tho hotter weather they did make a super super super rare 3-row version of the PRV radiator, only ever owned 1.
Better metal in the OE than anything aftermarket, but they're all old.
The B20 top-bottom radiator cars 69-70? all models, & all 1800? have larger inlets/outlets than the B16/B18 cars. Hiperfauto knows about swapping the larger necks/inlets onto those rads for B20-converted B16 & B18 cars.
Long as the fan clutch/blade/shroud is any damn good/bumper air guide is in place, should stay cool for the given size of radiator that fits between the frame horns.
Maybe OE -'85 push fan if it needs to idle with the A/C on and has an intercooler/is boosted?
& some ducting to duct the air thru the giant triple thick heat exchanger sammich (IC/A/C/RAD in the case of a boosted car).
Heat soak is a PITA on a boosted A/C car.
BeaverMeat
Active member
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- Aug 8, 2020
- Location
- Vancouver Island
After some more wheel time... I’m starting to think the cooling system is efficient enough. It actually may be running too cool as it takes for ever to heat up in colder temperatures. I’m starting to think someone put a 180 thermostat in it... because “It’s what you do” when you have a ‘stang!
Most likely this.
The cool-kid upgrade is to use a 160F thermostat... which is a terrible idea. I think 185F is stock.
If you end up replacing the t-stat, spend the extra few dollars on a "high flow" thermostat. Major upgrade if you're cooling system is on the verge of being marginal when pushed hard.
ACDelco 12TP1D is one option
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BeaverMeat
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- Aug 8, 2020
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- Vancouver Island
195 is stock on the EFI 5.0. Putting a 160 was the old school carb upgrade that carried over. From what I gather the EFI 5.0 was designed to run hot. 200 is a normal running temp. It could just be stuck too.
Jeh
A Smorgasbord of Excellence
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- Dec 15, 2006
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- on a crappy road...
With all my time working on the 5.0s in the cars and trucks the 5.0 wasn't prone to running hot even when run harder. My F150 can sit in 100+ temps in traffic with the ac blasting and not run warm at all. The big difference is the shrouding.
When I did the Efan in my 240, I pulled the fan out of an S80 and trimmed the assembly to fit and even on the hottest days it didnt get warm. I did the comp board bypass and has the fan set to A) with a thermostatic switch, B)with the compressor or with C) an over ride so when I was at the track I could just turn it on an leave it on.