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Will I kill myself if I don't upgrade my brakes?

Alright thanks for all the info guys, I'll probably just get new metallic pads
You're welcome! Be careful of the pads you purchase. The OE Volvo pads are good, I can't comment on other brands other than the PBR Ulimates/Ceramics that used to be good many years ago, are now(if even available), NOT good for track use and deposited pad material onto my new rotors years ago.

Good pads and good fluid will get you a ways with the stock calipers. If you're doing track days, and are at a track that uses the brakes, expect the pads to wear down to the metal after a few hours of track time (just like KLR142 mentioned). Brake pads work pretty well when it's metal on metal, they just get really hot and boil the fluid at the least opportune time.
"Few" being a relative term. If you do a couple track days a year and less than 10k miles a year, they might last you a year. Who really knows, it's hard to say how everyone's brake wear will be because everyone drives differently. We'd get multiple YEARS out of the rotors, but have to change pads every weekend. Towards the end with the higher power levels, the rear pads would wear through in 6-8 hours depending on the track. Fronts were still good for probably 8-12 hours.
 
We would get 20+ hours out of a set of frt pads at full effort, a few more hours than that out of the rears. Stock '91 245 brake parts, even cheap rotors. Never came close to running out of pad during a race weekend. Multiple class wins, lots of top 5s, so yes, we pushed. We did, however, take the backing plates off. Hawk Blue 9012 compound. I'm led to believe there are even better choices than this but have yet to try them.
 
"Few" being a relative term. If you do a couple track days a year and less than 10k miles a year, they might last you a year. Who really knows, it's hard to say how everyone's brake wear will be because everyone drives differently. We'd get multiple YEARS out of the rotors, but have to change pads every weekend. Towards the end with the higher power levels, the rear pads would wear through in 6-8 hours depending on the track. Fronts were still good for probably 8-12 hours.

Very true.
At ORP the front pads made it to about 3pm before they went metal on metal. So that's about 4.5-5hrs of track time. PBR ceramic pads, 3000lb turbo 242 doing 2:0X lap times, running CCW. My not so sophisticated lap timing app showed a few 1:5x times, but I'm not sure I trust it that much.
The brakes let me know at the bottom of Valkyrie Hill when slowing down from 120+. I passed a few cars when they turned in, and was able to use the outside of the turn to stay out of the grass. :omg:
 
Yeehaw! Lol. Those PBR Ceramics are crap these days. I wonder how the Volvo pads compare if you had done a back to back comparison.

I will say that you can still stop the car when you just have backing plates for pads, but like you said, the fluid will likely boil and your stopping distances do increase.

This was with no rear pad material left and pumping the brakes to build back up pressure. Still some of my fastest laps of the weekend back in June at the Ridge Motorsports Park!
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What if I dont wanna quit driving like a moron? :lol:

Good to know about the RX7 junk tho, heard they shed heat better but I guess Cadillac or nothing?

So after all that good feedback you need a brake upgrade why? :uh:

The Volvo 240 brake system is over-engineered enough to take care of anything you are likely going to be asking it to based on your overview.

Make sure the stock brakes are in good shape and spend the money on something else that you'll enjoy.

If you really need to spend money on your brakes to be happy put in some Hawk Street or Porterfield brake pads - that should scratch your itch.

:wave:

*[Sorry missed your follow-up post]
 
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I have seen my stock 740 girlings with cheap rotors glowing in 24 hour night races, but never experienced any fade with race pads and ATE Typ200 fluid.

Any problems I have had with brakes have been related to proper bleeding to eliminate air in the lines. Once I got a Motive power brake bleeder that problem went away.
 
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