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Cylinder Head Install Questions

S

stayathomedad

New member
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Location
Visalia California
531 Head to B230 Block NA application

Hey all, since there are soooo many opinions and information out there regarding head bolt choices, head bolt lubes, head bolt sealants, head gaskets, etc. I figured I'd go ahead and ask what you guys think in regards to this.

*So, what do you guys use in regards to cylinder head installs, (lubes and sealants)?
*Do you guys use any type of "sealer" with the head gasket?
*In general do you use a thread sealer along with lube on head bolts? If so, what do you use?
*Best head bolts?
*Best head gaskets?
*What do you use to clean the mating surfaces of the block and head?

*For this application I've read that the torque settings should be two stages, the first being to 44.2 foot lbs the second being 66 foot lbs? Is this accurate?
*I've read the torque sequence should start in the middle moving out? Is this generally accurate?



Lots of questions :)
Thanks!
 
*Do you guys use any type of "sealer" with the head gasket?
NO.

*In general do you use a thread sealer along with lube on head bolts? If so, what do you use?
Engine oil, or moly bolt prep.

*Best head bolts?
Any new ones if they are stretch, but IN A Jam you can re-stretch them once.

*Best head gaskets?
Mahle, Fel-Pro, any big name.

*What do you use to clean the mating surfaces of the block and head?
A scraper, and a razor blade if needed.
NEVER use a roloc disc.

*For this application I've read that the torque settings should be two stages, the first being to 44.2 foot lbs the second being 66 foot lbs? Is this accurate?
That is for the non-stretch bolts.
https://yoshifab.com/store/webdocs/torquespecqrr.htm

*I've read the torque sequence should start in the middle moving out? Is this generally accurate?
see above
 
and further to what MikeP says, follow the green book instructions. Hard to go wrong with OE Engineering recommendations. 531 vs. 530 is of no consequence..... both factory aluminum heads on an iron block.

IF still on the webs, find the STEALTHFTI pages which Tom hosted. He provided a very detailed head gasket & torquing pictorial.

YES, it still exists: https://www.pbase.com/stealthfti
 
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Greenbooks also say factory head bolts can be reused up to 5 times. I can say from experience they're good at least 3 times. I just prick the head of one with a punch each time.

I also like a Cometic head gasket. Because they come in various thicknesses, you can set your piston-to-head clearance with it.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Also, is it good to use thread locker or should head bolts always be clean of anything?
Click to expand...

They should be lubricated with engine oil or moly assembly lube. You should also chase the threads in the block and make sure they are clean, use brake clean and compressed air to blow out and dry the holes. Cover the hole with a rag when blowing out with the compressed air to keep from getting a face full of brake clean.
 
VB242 said:
They should be lubricated with engine oil or moly assembly lube. You should also chase the threads in the block and make sure they are clean, use brake clean and compressed air to blow out and dry the holes. Cover the hole with a rag when blowing out with the compressed air to keep from getting a face full of brake clean.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about how to make sure the holes are clean. Thanks for posting this!

*In addition to oil or moly, do you guys use any type of thread sealer at least around the head bolts that are near water jackets?
*How about other parts of the head? What are the best ways to clean the other nooks and cranies (oil galleys, spark plug holes, lifters, etc? I'd imagine if things can get into the head bolt holes things can get into other areas that you'd want to make sure are clean before assembly.
*And, what is the best way to prep a head for paint if wanting to paint it?
 
as far as cleaning everything brake cleaner and an air nozzle just make sure to keep the cams in to avoid trash getting on the caps, but because its a solid tappet the oil galleys are less important, ultimate is hot tanking it of course. If you use a MLS head gasket, the engine deck and head surface need to be super clean. To be really safe on any head gasket I would at least skim the head or check to make sure its flat
 
Ok, so a light coat of oil or moly on the head bolts for install.

But in regards to thread sealant (not locker), does anyone use sealant on the threads of the head bolts near water jackets?
 
Alrighty. I wanted to double check. I've read that some guys use thread sealant around the threads of the head bolts near water jackets just as a precaution and as an added help for the head gasket.
I won't worry about it for this application, I'll just make sure to lubricate the head bolts.
 
stayathomedad said:
Ok, so a light coat of oil or moly on the head bolts for install.

But in regards to thread sealant (not locker), does anyone use sealant on the threads of the head bolts near water jackets?
Click to expand...

No need for thread sealer on these engines. The threaded holes for the head bolts are blind and sealed from coolant.
 
shoestring said:
Greenbooks also say factory head bolts can be reused up to 5 times. I can say from experience they're good at least 3 times. I just prick the head of one with a punch each time.

I also like a Cometic head gasket. Because they come in various thicknesses, you can set your piston-to-head clearance with it.
Click to expand...
I agree, and I have also done it (on BP's car at SE) with no torque wrench.


stayathomedad said:
Alrighty. I wanted to double check. I've read that some guys use thread sealant around the threads of the head bolts near water jackets just as a precaution and as an added help for the head gasket.
I won't worry about it for this application, I'll just make sure to lubricate the head bolts.
Click to expand...
A lot of US engines (chev v8, etc) have bolts that go into the coolant passages, you have to use teflon paste on those.
The oil changing torque thing never bothered me, if I do use moly I cut it with oil, too.
 
2manyturbos said:
The final torque on the bolts is 80 lb*ft. Or you can go to 45 lb*ft + 90 degrees. These are not TTY bolts from the factory.
Click to expand...

I have some stock head bolts coming in so I'll stick with the 45 ft lbs +90 degrees. I saw that the ARP set was $260 so decided to go with the $80 factory set since this is an NA engine.
Or, since it seems like its okay to reuse these head bolts I might just go that route.

This is all fantastic information by the way! I got the head cleaned up today. I'm hoping to get painting on it tomorrow.
 
I have never replaced a set of head bolts yet with new bolts. They can be re-used. I have seen them so rusted on the threads I wouldn’t re-use them. I had more used bolts to pick from to replace the rusted ones. Suit yourself. What ever you are comfortable with.
 
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