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Slow moving build up

I was saving my pennies to have Swedish Relics rebuild the B20 in my 142, but I can't trust the m47 with the amount of noise it's making. I bought a t5 with Deeworks adapter from a local. Added a Summit short shifter, brass shift cup, and yoshifab clutch. The 240 driveshaft will be adapted to mount to the T5.

48467716407_a7081295f8_c.jpg
[/url]20190805_125323 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr[/IMG]

20190805_124628 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

20190805_124543 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
The t5 is in the car, but it won't stay in 1st. This is one of the times I'm happy to be paying someone else to work on my car. The trans is coming back out and bronze shift fork bushings are being installed. I did manage to make an adapter to use the Volvo shift knob.

2019-09-22_05-25-38 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

Without it being all put together it looks janky, but I took it for a spin around the block.

2019-09-22_05-25-08 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
I had a good JY run and grabbed some OEM under hood isolation. It didn't line up with holes in the '83, so it went on this car. I want to try to get it back on the '83 though, since this already has the stick on foam IPD used to sell.

49404787461_4a56a1437a_c.jpg
[/url]20200118_101216 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr[/IMG]

I hit a wall with adding power steering back in. The plan was PS pump on the bottom of a 740 bracket with the alternator on top of it. The pulley doesn't line up though, so I need to get back out there to see what can be done.

20200116_111339 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

20200116_111332 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
I've never driven a T5 with a stock shifter so I can't say it made any improvement. I know it's a tighter fit than the worn plastic cup, so some slop has to be gone. I wanted to replace any small wear items before it went in, just to save the trouble down the road, so might as well go for the best possible.
 
A "shift fork bushing" would suggest something internal to the transmission and not a shift linkage related component that might be plastic or rubber, correct? I don't think replacing it would change the feel of anything.

Also, what shop are you having/did you have mess with that?
 
Frasca referenced the shifter bushings, that's the brass bushing that is plastic from the factory. The fork bushing was three pieces, little rectangles, that I'm still not sure where they go or what they do. Jason in Vancouver took care of the swap for me.
 
Ah, ok. I missed that picture of the brass bushing above. Is that the bushing that the shifter's ball socket drops into? We still have the plastic one on the General Leif. No complaints.

I look forward to seeing how the finished product drives!
 
It's out of the garage! PS and Alt are mounted up and running on the driver's side. I had to trim the front lower bushing to get the PS pump to line up right and had to add a thick washer to the adjuster bolt. With new bushings and voltage regulator the Denso is running good again too. IPD front springs are on too, so I need to get it in for an alignment.

20200611_125402 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
Blue Volvo!!!

Hey Nice looking 240!!! Im still doing my wagon , but i got the engine running already. I am trying to keep my a/c system, but i have to adapt the compressor form a 850 because i swapped the engine to a supra 7mgte and i already made an adapter plate for it, I gotta change the location of the electric ps pump cause i put it on the side where the battery location is, but I changed the battery to the back and removed the charcoal canister from the original location, cause I am planning to put the ps pump on the battery location, to install the a/c compressor.
Take care and keep up the good work!!!:rofl::nod::rofl:
DZ
 
20200702_170659 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

Just got it back from the tint shop. I paid the premium to get 33% carbon ceramic all the way around. It seems to do a great job at blocking the heat that comes through the glass. I still hope to get heat insulation installed under the headliner to help even more.
 
The bend in the Jegs shifter made the oem rubber boot bind up as I shifted, so I've been running without a boot since the T5 went in. I bought a short straight Hurst arm to install. The mount holes are the right spacing, but I had to shim them since the Hurst holes are larger than the Jegs. I also got a knob from Shift Solutions. I like the idea of having the oem knob, but I took some advice to get a weighted knob and it made it much easier to drive. Having the boot back on makes a surprising difference in wind and noise coming into the cabin, even though I shoved sponge foam into the gap.

20200811_112446 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

20200812_200740 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
Lower it a bit in the front and raise a bit in the back...

Nice little car though! Love the wheels :)

I just went to an import show that had a pretty young crowd, when I got back to my car it looked like a monster truck compared to their cars. My driveway is so steep though that if I go lower I won't be able to get my car off the street. Eventually when we have our next house I'll get coil overs and go an inch lower in the front.
 
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