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Under bonnet temp management

Nope, I'm 500 miles away from the car, I've asked Matt to check them and will report back.

FWIW he doesn't think it's that, though - the car needs a long time to cool down, apparently, and will then run fine, which doesn't sound like a hose temporarily collapsing, but maybe the hose is sticky on the inside and only springs apart when it cools - I really don't know.
 
Matt has provided proof that he made it:

13512229_10156972457975461_7211690343078344725_n.jpg
 
Ok, latest thinking is blocked fuel breather line and/or fuel pump borked - anything else to add to the list?
 
I had maybe a similar situation happen with my 240 last summer. It drove 5 hours to the beach perfectly fine. One the way back, about an hour and a half in, it sputters and dies. We stand on the side of the road for maybe an hour before, as a last ditch "**** it lets try to start it one more time" it lights and runs fine for another hour before dying again. Similar deal again. We chill at this gas station for a bit before I'm able to get it to start and get us the rest of the hour and a half home.

When I get home it drives fine for about an hour then sputters dead. Chill for 15-20 minutes and it will start and run again.

I swapped out the main pump and pre-pump for a DW200 and have not had any problems since. I think what was happening was that in the summer when it's 1000 degrees here the main pump would heat up and stop working after a period of time. I was never able to definitively diagnosis this as the for sure culprit but I've done long drives this summer in 1000 degree heat and haven't had an issue.
 
Ok, thanks for that - I'll change the pump and refresh the breather system when the car gets back - can't hurt.
 
Have you tried another ECU? Could be a hardware issue on the circuitboard. You never answered the question as to whether you have a M.3 tune (limited) or an M4.4 ECU conversion (much better). Either way, I'd still get another ECU with the tune flashed to it.

You didn't have these issues prior to the MAF (scaling) & tune conversion, correct?
 
Ok, thanks for that - I'll change the pump and refresh the breather system when the car gets back - can't hurt.

Believe it or not my 2000 Ford Tuarus(don't laugh, it's my work car) does that when it's 90 degrees or more. The fuel vaporizes from the heat. It needs to cool down and condense enough to provide the proper air to fuel ratio. I was scratching my head for a long time till I looked it up and those cars are notorious for that. Try and wrap your fuel lines with some kind of insulation so they don't heat up as much. Just my guess.
 
Have you tried another ECU? Could be a hardware issue on the circuitboard. You never answered the question as to whether you have a M.3 tune (limited) or an M4.4 ECU conversion (much better). Either way, I'd still get another ECU with the tune flashed to it.

You didn't have these issues prior to the MAF (scaling) & tune conversion, correct?

It's the original ECU variant that came with the 850R.

And you are correct - I did not have these issues prior to the new MAF, but then the temperatures under which this fault manifests are uncommon in the UK so that may be coincidence.
 
The car made it the 600 miles back from Strasbourg without a single fault - only difference to the journey down was that it was 20 degrees C cooler.

Matt stopped and checked the fuel cap - no negative pressure developed at any time.

I think it's the fuel pump, so I'll swap that. I'll probably take the opportunity to refresh the fuel lines, and look into wrapping them also - thanks for that tip.
 
And we may have a winner: the engine lost it's crank angle sensor 1,580 miles ago, which lines up with the trip down to Strasbourg.

It's lost it 22 times before then, at a coolant temp of 108c.

Now I changed the crank angle sensor - due to this thread.

The one I removed tested fine when I checked it with the multimeter after it'd been in the oven for a while - but I left the new one in there because it couldn't hurt.

So - hivebrain of Turbobricks, what's most likely to be borked here, CAS or wiring to CAS, or board which the CAS terminates onto?
 
I have had very similar problems ('82 Kjet turbo car). Went through ignition like you, which didn't help. Swapped fuel filter, in tank pump, and ran injector cleaner which helped tons- but still in hot weather esp. stop/go the fuel pump will start to groan a bit, and soon after it will have the cut out/miss problem. Let it cool down a bit, no more stutter.

I have suspected heat in the fuel system is the culprit. (either pump getting too hot, or fuel itself heating up)
 
I've just changed the fuel pump (and sender) on a "it can't hurt" basis.

However, the diagnostic tool says that the engine has been stopped 23 times by losing the crank position sensor signal, so I'm (now) pretty confident that it's that. It absolutely does only happen when it gets hot, which is odd, and it's not the sensor itself, as I swapped that a while ago.

Wiring? The board it terminates on? I don't know, so I'm swapping the wiring out for new.
 
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