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Homer's 1990 240 redblock exorcism

Bought some 12mm hose and a banjo fitting.
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Jacob
I probably missed this when you build the engine for this car. But where are your fuel pump? Do only use a intank fuelpump?
😉
Svein
 
More updates.

I've been fighting a steering wheel shimmy for quite some time now. 50-60ish mph. I could get it to disappear if the front wheels would be in the correct phase with each other.
Unfortunately it got worse with the new wheels (less mass damping I'm guessing).

Everything was suspect. Had the wheels/tires checked out on a Hunter 9700. Road force was all sub 6lbs, 2 of the wheels were at 3lbs.
Rotors are new, those checked out fine.
After a ****load of investigation I found a bent front hub on the passenger side. It was creating 9 thou TIR at the rotor surface. Volvo requires 2 thou or less on the S60R rotors.

Soooooo I ordered some parts for the front end:
New hubs from Volvo
Control arm bushings
Control arms
Rebuilt PS rack from Jorgen (Warranty, they sent me a ZF Type 3 rack to replace the TRW unit that was pissing oil)
New PS pump
PS cooler

I'm exchanging the pressure control valve in the PS pump for a 1450 psi one. Whiteblock pumps run 1200 psi. I'm looking for more assist at low speed. I didn't want to change the flow control orifice and make the steering twitchy.

The money pit continues...
 
Got the steering back together last night and it feels wonderful. Just drove around the parking garage and the assist level is perfect now. Not Cadillac floaty but not overly heavy.

Hubs just left Germany so I hope those show up soon. Itching to drive this thing, winter finally got the **** outta here.
 
Look what happens when you get rid of road-hugging weight. Only bad things. You should really believe everything the 1960s ad men wanted you to believe.

On our E36 we chased front wheel shimmy for quite a while and narrowed it down to axial runout at the front hubs, same issue you found. Adding shims between hub and rotor, made from aluminum beer cans, turned out to be an acceptable solution. You could try that in a pinch. We moved shims around until runout was minimized at the rotor.
 
Look what happens when you get rid of road-hugging weight. Only bad things. You should really believe everything the 1960s ad men wanted you to believe.

On our E36 we chased front wheel shimmy for quite a while and narrowed it down to axial runout at the front hubs, same issue you found. Adding shims between hub and rotor, made from aluminum beer cans, turned out to be an acceptable solution. You could try that in a pinch. We moved shims around until runout was minimized at the rotor.

I know, too much lightweighting. I saw there are companies that manufacture runout correction shims. I guess for customers that don't want to buy new hubs? Beer cans are way cheaper and you're recycling!

Another thing checked off the list that has been bugging me for a while. The throttle has always been heavy from extra drag on the throttle cable. The routing combine with age wasn't doing me any favors. I bought a new Gemo cable and shortened it.
Found new barrel ends and dip soldered it on. Turned out really well and the throttle is oh so smooth and light now.

You can see how much extra length was in the stock cable. I ended up removing 1.75" of cable.
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Brass barrel end soldered on with silver bearing solder. The end is sold as a vespa scooter barrel end I think.
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Hideous brake booster overshadows the proper routing.
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Your brake booster looks like crap and not worthy of this vehicle.... I think you should over-engineer a replacement ASAP.
 
Your brake booster looks like crap and not worthy of this vehicle.... I think you should over-engineer a replacement ASAP.

If the bolts under the dash weren't such a pain in the ass I think I'd actually get around to fixing it.

Now that you?ve got a new Jurbo, potentially non-hooptie boost control for a ?cruise control on/fuel economy setting?, fixed cruise vac leaks and a new throttle cable, will it cruise/drive pleasantly going slow/relaxed/lazily as well as fast?

That's not a bad idea making the boost super lazy with cruise on. hmmm.

The cruise control got heaps better after replacing the o-rings. I can't wait to see how it is with the new throttle cable.

It's actually quite pleasant no matter how you drive it.
 
My old 850R had circa 370 bhp from it's 2.3, the car I've replaced it with has essentially identical horsepower but from a 5.4 litre V8, what is interesting is that fuel consumption for the V8 is significantly worse - keep out of boost and the 850R was (relatively speaking) frugal.
 
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