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240 Clutch replace...but now doesn?t go into any gears.

^^

I agree with you. No terrible noise and the pedal isn't going crazy. A seized pilot bearing will make it really hard to get into gear. No matter what, it sounds like it needs to come back apart now.
 
It sounds like the pressure plate isn't releasing the pressure on the clutch disc. First make sure as stated the fork is pushing the fingers of the pressure plate in when you push the clutch in. If not adjust the cable more. YOu should be able to watch what is happening through the fork hole while someone else pushes on the clutch.

Is it a flat flywheel and flat flywheel pressure plate? Or dog dish? 215mm? OR?

Simon
 
I'm also betting this is the issue. Not much else can go wrong. We will see when/if it comes apart. If this is the case, OP, you won't be the first or last to make this mistake. The smart manufacturers actually put a painted message or sticker saying, "Flywheel Side". I have actually seen a clutch set up where the sprung hub went toward the flywheel. I don't remember what the application was. It may have been a FWD car I was working on.
 
Another high mileage Volvo problem that can happen is the release arm gets a bit bent over the years of use. Also the pivot ball end breaks off the pivot ball. Your clutch pedal feels normal but the release arm will feel loose and sloppy.
 
Hello to everyone, this is my first message ever on here. I have 740 from 1986. Very good condition (about 440.000 miles / never rebuild engine) and nowadays mainly used only during summer season. My transmission is M47. Last year my mechanic assembled new clutch to my car, and even my release arm is welded once (i think about 15 years ago) transmission works just fine. When putting new clutch, it is very important to be sure about the condition about pilot bearing. If the pilot bearing is bad, it will be almost impossible to put gears on.
 
IMHO, if you are looking at the pilot bearing of an OHV, OHC or DOHC Volvo rear wheel drive car, you should change it unless it's brand new.

They cost less than $8.00 from Volvo and with the right tool, they are easy to change. FYI, you can rent a pilot bearing puller from AutoZone and I think Oreillys.
 
Whenever I do a clutch job, the FIRST thing that I check is: will the clutch will disengage,; once it is installed, before I hook every everything up and put it on the ground. If there is a problem it is easier to fix it then, than after the whole job is done.
 
Based on change points the pilot bearing may still be good but we will change it anyway just to be safe. I rented the oreilly tool when I did mine and it worked perfectly. Most likely the clutch disk is flipped or pilot bearing is backwards, we will find out on Tuesday.
 
Transmission was dropped again and: fork was replaced, new TO, and inspected everything to make sure it was in the proper orientation. Now I’m running into the same issue. Car won’t go into gear while it’s on. It did manage to go in gear when the driveshaft was off. I don’t know if the cable got damaged or if the cable needs to be shortened but I imagine if the clutch cable needed an adjustment it would still go into gear as it did before replacing the clutch.
 
Did you check the pilot bearing? If so, you may want to re-read post #7.

I speak from experience. After installing a Sachs clutch and not being able to get it to disengage I removed it and couldn't see a problem so I put it back in with the same results. 2 more times out and in and I was ready to pull my hair out. I placed a call to Sachs' tech line they suggested that the box had been dropped and that the pressure plate was damaged. Low and behold a replacement clutch cured the problem.
 
Did you check the pilot bearing? If so, you may want to re-read post #7.

I speak from experience. After installing a Sachs clutch and not being able to get it to disengage I removed it and couldn't see a problem so I put it back in with the same results. 2 more times out and in and I was ready to pull my hair out. I placed a call to Sachs' tech line they suggested that the box had been dropped and that the pressure plate was damaged. Low and behold a replacement clutch cured the problem.

Here?s the full story, sorry Golddayton. We dropped the trans again and must I say we did it in under 2 hours which is a new record for me. We found that the clutch disk was backwards but strangely enough that?s actually how the old Sachs disk was when we originally pulled it out. The TO bearing was also backwards and it was not ?locked? into the clutch fork. We used a brand new pressure plate from a stock Sachs kit and then used the clutchnet 6 puck disk that we had intended to use originally. Everything was installed correctly and went on much easier than our original attempt.

Now for the bad, when we put the trans back up, it went up quicker than the first time but I still got a little quarter inch gap in the bellhousing when putting the input shaft into the pilot bearing. We had to use the bolts for the bellhousing to pull the trans towards the engine in order to close the gap which I didn?t have trouble which on my 88 245 that I M46 swapped, idk if that means anything (maybe new clutch disc and PP cause this?).

Also I rented the pilot bearing removal tool from oreillys and it didn?t fit the ID of the pilot bearing in this car. We also tried the old shove grease behind it and try to push it out but that also didn?t work. Therefore, this is also the OG pilot bearing, however before the clutch swap there didn?t seem to be any issues so change points would suggest that the pilot bearing, although old, may not be the root cause.

After getting the trans up and shifter connected we turned the car on and went through the gears without trouble. I verified from underneath that the output shaft of the trans was spinning as intended. Then we put on trans x-member and driveshaft support along with driveshaft bolts and all of a sudden we can?t get it into any gear. We attempted clutch cable adjustment but this seems sus because we got it into all gears prior to connecting driveshaft and trans crossmember.

Anyone have any advice/guidance on clutch cable adjustments as well?! Where did we go wrong? Because this time we went by the book aside from replacing the stubborn pilot bearing.
 
If you're using a ceramic disk, you really want to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging.... in other words... sometimes the clutch cable has to be adjusted a little tighter than usual to get a clean release.
 
And now I get to relay the story of the first clutch I installed on my '67 122. It was 1970 something and my trusty steed needed a clutch. Being a broke teenager I opted for the reman clutch from the local auto parts store. I plunked down my cash and was handed a bunch of separate boxes. I proceeded to install the parts working on the ground in my cousins driveway only to have no clutch when I was done. In and out a couple of times to figure out what I did wrong and all I could tell was that the fingers were already in too far on the pressure plate. It turns out that there were 2 different clutch manufacturers, Fitchel & Sachs and Borg & Beck and they used different thickness discs. The B&B disc is thicker and causes the fingers of the F&S pressure plate to get sucked in so far the clutch can't be released. The parts store gave me mismatched parts and the combo wouldn't work without putting spacers under pressure plate.
 
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The Sachs PP, TO, Disc matched the clutch that was originally in the car (both in parts# and in dimensions). I threw the old kit away since I didn't forsee anything wrong with the installation. Does anyone know how short the cable has to be ( tightened) in order to fully disengage? I use to adjust the old clutch and continue to crank down on the cable and still had plenty of threads left. Im starting to think the adjustment is just so far off that its not releasing at all.
 
but I still got a little quarter inch gap in the bellhousing when putting the input shaft into the pilot bearing. We had to use the bolts for the bellhousing to pull the trans towards the engine in order to close the gap... ,idk if that means anything (maybe new clutch disc and PP cause this?).

Generally, a manual trans should slide easily right up to the block.

The only kinds of "resistance" I've experienced from working on assorted brands of car are:

- Transmission that isn't quite straight, or clutch friction plate that wasn't properly centered when tightening the pressure plate.

- Bell housing locating dowels or holes that weren't cleaned and anti-seized. Usually have to pry the trans off, too.

- A different type of TO bearing that's actually spring-loaded against the clutch, rather than free-floating.

- An input shaft being forced into a defective or binding pilot bearing. That was February's Jeep. Pilot bearing came apart, rusty rollers were dragging the input shaft around.

Was the pilot bearing you re-used a bearing or a bushing? And if a bearing, did the greasy little needle rollers happily spin?

- Wrong parts. I think it was another Jeep. Wouldn't even come within an inch of the engine. Parts catalog was wrong.
 
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