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Old 03-29-2015, 12:16 AM   #1
TempleUWS6
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Default What parts to pull from a 940 Turbo

Spotted at a local JY, what parts would I want to pull to +T my 244?

I'm probably pulling the FT too, that's an AW71 too right?







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Old 03-29-2015, 09:28 AM   #2
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I was freezing yesterday morning at the Jessup Crazy Rays and I didn't see any rear wheel drive Volvos. Looked like they crushed a bunch of the import section recently and there were less cars in that section than I've seen before.

Good luck with the removal. I'm tied up with church and a family birthday party. The weather is supposed to be a little nicer today for you.
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:21 AM   #3
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Car is likely a 91+ but check to be sure; if it is, go through the hassle to pull the manifold + turbo, MAF, E-Fan + relay/wiring if you want it and intercooler if you don't already have one

Someone else may chime in but that's all I see worth pulling immediately. May want to try your luck at the ECU's but I don't know how far your patience may run

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- And yes the trans should be an AW71
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:43 AM   #4
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Any body damage on the car? If not, either engine/trans is most likely bad.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:46 PM   #5
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Good point! Maybe I shouldn't risk the time, effort and money on it; even if its only 250...

I should probably just grab the other important bits.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:02 PM   #6
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Things like injectors, intercooler, piping, the 'tee' piece for the pcv system, computers, coolant overflow tank, fuel pressure regulator, 90+ manifold, possibly turbo if it seems decent, downpipe..you don't need the innards of the motor but if you can get the whole thing (with computers) for 250 I don't think that's too bad.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:04 PM   #7
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Is that 151,000 in 2004? How many miles on it now?

I'd rather have a B230F. If you pull an FT block, pull the head first and get a look at the cylinders. The FT blocks usually have more wear. An F block with the same mileage always looks better with less ridge.

Our 24hr lemons car runs a B230F and ~12-14psi on a T3 using stock LH2.4 and 850 Turbo injectors. Don't need an FT block for a +T at "low" boost. My daily driver is a '92 w/B230F, 13c, ~8psi. I've put ~70,000 miles on the +T done by the previous owner.

I haven't been to any Crazy Rays in months. I need a steering rack for my '92 240...might be getting back up there sometime soon.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:45 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info! It has 172k on it now.

So Is be fine just using an F block? Is the FT just sodium valves?

What should I take from this 940 to +T my wagon the cheapest and with the least amount of modding?

Im only seriously considering doing it now as a summer project along with lists of other things with the car and haven't done too much research.

This ones at Hawkins Point, they had a 960 and a 244 a few weeks ago and plenty of 850s, now they have a 965, 964, 944, that 944t and a few 850s. Lots of bricks for such a small yard with I high turn over rate.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TempleUWS6 View Post
Thanks for the info! It has 172k on it now.

So Is be fine just using an F block? Is the FT just sodium valves?

What should I take from this 940 to +T my wagon the cheapest and with the least amount of modding?

Im only seriously considering doing it now as a summer project along with lists of other things with the car and haven't done too much research.

This ones at Hawkins Point, they had a 960 and a 244 a few weeks ago and plenty of 850s, now they have a 965, 964, 944, that 944t and a few 850s. Lots of bricks for such a small yard with I high turn over rate.
Only difference between f and ft engine is the head has sodium filled exhaust valves, a t cam, and the block uses lower compression pistons..none of which is necessary for a turbo car..I think I read somewhere that the f blocks (especially later ones) had longer piston skirts and were much less likely to piston slap..therefore they did not wear as rapidly as turbo motors. Another thing to consider is that "dude my grandmas car is turbo lets go do burnouts all day!" Is how many of them were probably driven. A low mileage, late model, b230f is the way to go from what I've read. See the list I wrote above for part, that's the majority of everything I needed to +t mine. Grab some 850 turbo injectors and use those instead of the 940 turbo injectors, that way you can do without the resistor pack.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Things like injectors, intercooler, piping, the 'tee' piece for the pcv system, computers, coolant overflow tank, fuel pressure regulator, 90+ manifold, possibly turbo if it seems decent, downpipe..you don't need the innards of the motor but if you can get the whole thing (with computers) for 250 I don't think that's too bad.
From what tower is saying if an F block will be just fine for maybe 200-300 HP than I'd rather just leave this FT in there given my timeframe and 250 is just long block.

I'll probably just grab what you said and the intercooler.

Probably just leave the turbo and manifold if they're giving me a struggle, same with down pipe. I could get a manifold later and make a down pipe.

What else guys!? I'm gonna grab that stuff in about a half hour!
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:54 PM   #11
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Nothing needs to be 'modded' for a +t aside from making an oil feed and oil return for the turbo..some exhaust work as well. Everything should swap right over. Also, that car uses the late model intercooler which doesn't fit too easily in a 240. You could hack it and make it fit or get the earlier style intercooler that fits right in.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:57 PM   #12
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Gotcha! I have a source for later blocks and they're not going anywhere for a while. These cars at crazy rays only last a few weeks if that.

I'll try and scope out 850 turbo injectors, would any Saab stuff be of use? I saw a couple yesterday.

Will my 90 intake manifold work ok?
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Nothing needs to be 'modded' for a +t aside from making an oil feed and oil return for the turbo..some exhaust work as well. Everything should swap right over. Also, that car uses the late model intercooler which doesn't fit too easily in a 240. You could hack it and make it fit or get the earlier style intercooler that fits right in.
Ah, maybe I can snag a Saab intercooler I saw just hanging out on the front of one.

So will I really need the computer boxes from this 940 or will I be fine with my stock 2.4? What's the advantage if any? Thanks for the help and sorry for the trival questions! I need to know exactly what and what not to get while I'm there and don't have much time for research.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TempleUWS6 View Post
From what tower is saying if an F block will be just fine for maybe 200-300 HP than I'd rather just leave this FT in there given my timeframe and 250 is just long block.

I'll probably just grab what you said and the intercooler.

Probably just leave the turbo and manifold if they're giving me a struggle, same with down pipe. I could get a manifold later and make a down pipe.

What else guys!? I'm gonna grab that stuff in about a half hour!
if you're not taking the whole motor I would at least grab at the minimum..
-exhaust manifold (check for cracks)
-downpipe (unless you feel like making your own)
-BOTH computers (lh2.4 on your 240 as well?)
-older style intercooler because it fits easier, that one can work though.
-all the intercooler piping/couplers you can grab
-850 turbo injectors (you won't have to wire in the resistor pack this way)
-Fuel pressure regulator
-iac valve hose
-pcv 'tee' piece
-coolant overflow tank
-grab 1 or 2 'nipples' from that manifold so you can feed your boost gauge and te compressor bypass valve.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TempleUWS6 View Post
Gotcha! I have a source for later blocks and they're not going anywhere for a while. These cars at crazy rays only last a few weeks if that.

I'll try and scope out 850 turbo injectors, would any Saab stuff be of use? I saw a couple yesterday.

Will my 90 intake manifold work ok?
The b230f manifold is the same as the ft to my knowledge. Even if it's not, it works fine.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:17 PM   #16
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Did you grab the grille?
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:18 PM   #17
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Yeah my 245 is a 90 so it has LH2.4, am I ok with that or should I get the 940 units? Are they also 2.4 or what?
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:19 PM   #18
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Did you grab the grille?
Yeah I snagged that yesterday haha, its the only thing I walked out with, its absolutely mint!
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:42 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TempleUWS6 View Post
Yeah my 245 is a 90 so it has LH2.4, am I ok with that or should I get the 940 units? Are they also 2.4 or what?
Both are lh2.4 but you need the turbo computers because they have different fuel and ignition maps that a turbo motor needs. The NA ignition computer is too agressive (most likely) to run on a turbo motor, especially with the higher compression of an f+t motor. Both computers swap directly into your car. Then you can sell both of your computers for probably ~$50-80 together on here.
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:28 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Both are lh2.4 but you need the turbo computers because they have different fuel and ignition maps that a turbo motor needs. The NA ignition computer is too agressive (most likely) to run on a turbo motor, especially with the higher compression of an f+t motor. Both computers swap directly into your car. Then you can sell both of your computers for probably ~$50-80 together on here.

Ok thank you very much! This should have me off to a good start!
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:06 PM   #21
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F block is fine for ~200hp. For ~300hp, you're going to need a lot of supporting mods, but it can be done on a stock F block. Just a bit riskier. MrBill put down 291whp on a '90 B230F junkyard block with 100k on it. Then when he pulled the engine, I used it in our road race car. In other words, it survived 23psi from a Holset.

You need the fuel ECU located in the passengers side footwell, and you need the ignition ECU located under the steering column.
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
F block is fine for ~200hp. For ~300hp, you're going to need a lot of supporting mods, but it can be done on a stock F block. Just a bit riskier. MrBill put down 291whp on a '90 B230F junkyard block with 100k on it. Then when he pulled the engine, I used it in our road race car. In other words, it survived 23psi from a Holset.

You need the fuel ECU located in the passengers side footwell, and you need the ignition ECU located under the steering column.
What? What's the difference in blocks?
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:55 AM   #23
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I think he's referring to B230F compared to B230FT.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:00 AM   #24
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I think he's referring to B230F compared to B230FT.
Assuming the ft block is a factory turbo motor, it's just lower compression so it's more knock resistant. You cannot (without $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) get 300 hp on an NA b230f..f+t motors can make the same power an ft block can, just riskier due to the higher compression. That's all in the tune, right?
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
What? What's the difference in blocks?
B230F vs FT Block Differences

At a glance for those who don't want to read further (Thanks again, Towery) :

Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
The internal difference is in the pistons. The B230FT has a deeper dish in the piston, giving a lower compression ratio (8.7:1 for the turbo, 9.8:1 for the non).
93Volvo240 - Regarding the latter post, you can modify timing and add fuel as needed, for 250 WHP it's more safeguarding things once you begin to add more boost, but I'll stick to KISS and not clutter the thread further.

Last edited by MDVLN; 03-30-2015 at 01:41 AM.. Reason: KISS
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