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Old 08-06-2020, 06:32 PM   #1
daniels740
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Default 740T Exhaust Gasket

Found a small-ish exhaust leak right where my exhaust connects to my Garret T3 Turbo on my 1989 740 Turbo. Can someone help me find the gasket part #?


Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-06-2020, 09:55 PM   #2
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I don't think there is one. You might be able to find generic T3 inlet and outlet gaskets, but lining up the turbo to the downpipe might become more challenging with those in place. If it's very small you can probably safely ignore it. But if you really want it sealed, I read once on a Miata site that putting grease on the surfaces and letting it burn off might work. Make sure to get new locknuts if you pull it. Definitely use locknuts. I tried to use regular class 10s once and they backed off within a day.
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:00 PM   #3
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Correct, no gasket between the downpipe and turbine housing outlet. The conical shape of the turbine housing is intended to create a seal with the downpipe flange.

I wouldn’t worry about it TBH.
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:34 PM   #4
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I think small-ish was an understatement.

I feel quite a leak at idle so I think I might look into some alternative methods like iamrolling suggested. Maybe it just needs to be re-torqued. I'll keep you guys posted.
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Old 08-07-2020, 01:30 AM   #5
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Just an idea, do you still have the bracket for downpipe to block in place? Or maybe it's broken?
If they break, they can become the source of a leak because it puts quite a bit of force on the downpipe.

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Old 08-07-2020, 06:17 AM   #6
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You should definitely spray those nuts with penetrant before trying to crack them. Maybe hit them with a wire brush first, and do several applications of penetrant over the course of a few days. If you have to put any force on the nuts, try tapping on the ends of the studs with a wrench or something and apply more penetrant. Those studs will be brittle, and they are even harder to remove when broken. I went through every size of left handed drillbit when I broke one and it still wouldn't back out.
If the stud spins out with the nut, count yourself lucky and don't put it back. Buy new studs and nuts. Buy bolts instead if you have to, just don't try to reuse the old hardware. Tap out the threads (probably 8mmx1.25) in the housing if you end up with that much access. If the stud doesn't come out with the nut and looks like it would put up a fight to the death, don't push your luck unless you have lots of time to carefully manipulate it out on the bench.
If you get the temptation to remove the studs anyway, spray them with penetrant in the holes where they thread into the housing and try to (carefully) bang on the ends a bit with a drift through those holes. If the penetrant comes out rust colored after doing that, you have a better chance. If not, it's probably welded to the housing.
If one of the studs has to be removed because it it's bent, count on having to remove the turbo to work on it.
You might have no problems at all moving the fasteners, but please approach them carefully. I didn't once, and it really sucked. Hours of pressing on a drillbit soaked in ATF.

Last edited by iamrolling; 08-07-2020 at 06:28 AM..
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Old 08-07-2020, 06:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamrolling View Post
....I went through every size of left handed drillbit when I broke one and it still wouldn't back out......it really sucked.......Hours of pressing on a drillbit soaked in ATF.
Oh god, your post brings back some terrible memories.... ask me how I know...

I just threw the exhaust housing away and bought a good used one.
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Old 08-07-2020, 06:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I just threw the exhaust housing away and bought a good used one.
I gave up drilling after I got to 15/32 and tapped the inside of the damaged stud for a 6x1.00 bolt. It worked!
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:01 AM   #9
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https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/tur...sket/volvo/s60

Volvo used a gasket on the FWD (~2000+) cars. It fits on the older models.
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/tur...sket/volvo/s60

Volvo used a gasket on the FWD (~2000+) cars. It fits on the older models.
This is for turbo to manifold though, not turbo to downpipe.

Last edited by Fa182; 08-10-2020 at 01:22 AM..
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Old 08-07-2020, 12:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fa182 View Post
Just an idea, do you still have the bracket for downpipe to block in place? Or maybe it's broken?
If they break, they can become the source of a leak because it puts quite a bit of force on the downpipe.

Where would this bracket be located? Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-07-2020, 01:16 PM   #12
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Have you checked the nut on the underside? It may just be loose.

The clamp goes on the down pipe where it passes close to the bell housing. It attaches to one of the bell housing bolts with a special bolt/stud.

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Old 08-07-2020, 01:18 PM   #13
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It mounts via a bolt (p/n 1346591) and nut on in the area where the bellhousing is mounted to the engine.
I don't remember if it bolts into the bellhousing or the block but somewhere there (wasn't able to find a picture of it and the parts catalogue doesn't have a diagram either).
It faces backwards towards the rear of the car like on below diagram.



Bracket (or clamp as Volvo calls it) is p/n 1346590: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...models-1346590
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Old 08-09-2020, 03:59 PM   #14
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Looks like the bracket is missing. I should probably order the clamp as well as the locknuts and studs that secure the turbo to the downpipe.

Is the locknut that retains the clamp to the bell housing the same as the ones that hold the downpipe to the turbo?

Also, I'm about replace my motor mounts amd discovered that one of the bolts that hold the passenger side motor mount in is missing (as seen in picture).

Can I buy it from FCP or IPD along with everything else?

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 08-09-2020, 04:19 PM   #15
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No, the nuts are not the same. M10 vs. M8.

This is the lock nut you want for the bracket: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ock-nut-987891

This is for the turbo to downpipe: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4805...et-7883-948645
The correct studs are these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...r-pipe-1357769

The bolt for the motor mount should be this one: https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...61/985186.html
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Old 08-09-2020, 04:35 PM   #16
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While those nuts may fit the studs for the downpipe these are the correct ones. The difference in price is astounding.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-lock-nut-985868
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Old 08-09-2020, 04:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fa182 View Post
No, the nuts are not the same. M10 vs. M8.

This is the lock nut you want for the bracket: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ock-nut-987891

This is for the turbo to downpipe: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4805...et-7883-948645
The correct studs are these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...r-pipe-1357769

The bolt for the motor mount should be this one: https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...61/985186.html
FCP tells me the locknut for the bracket does not fit. Are you sure it's right? EDIT: I checked and it is correct.

Nonetheless, thank you so much for all the links!!!

Last edited by daniels740; 08-09-2020 at 07:01 PM..
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:45 PM   #18
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So, this is my cart link that I just ordered: FCP CART
The motor mount bolt I will buy from Home Depot.

Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by daniels740; 08-10-2020 at 10:12 AM..
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Old 08-15-2020, 09:53 PM   #19
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Just got the clamp and lock nuts and installed them. The downpipe moved so much that it was pretty difficult to install. I tightened it to the turbo after putting in the clamp.

Thanks for all the help guys. I wouldn't have figured it out otherwise.
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Old 08-16-2020, 03:48 AM   #20
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Yeah, they can be a bit hard to install, I remember it well when I replaced the broken one on my car.

Did it cure your leak?
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Old 08-16-2020, 10:52 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fa182 View Post
Yeah, they can be a bit hard to install, I remember it well when I replaced the broken one on my car.

Did it cure your leak?
Yup, the downpipe just had to be tightened to the turbo. It probably loosened from all the movement because of the missing clamp.
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