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Old 09-30-2020, 09:40 PM   #1
onelow89s10
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Default Car audio builds

Anyone on her interested in aftermarket car audio. In the middle of doing a new build and decided to use the 245. Let’s see everyone’s setups lol
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:07 AM   #2
onelow89s10
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If anyone has any interest I will post some pics. Probably not everyone’s cup of tea though. Large subs and boxes going in the wagon.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:11 AM   #3
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Id like to see some pics. I built a system for my sons 240, its basic door speakers with a sub in the truck and an amp. Nothing fancy. On mine I have alpine head unit, small amp to push door speakers and bigger amp to run 6x9's in rear shelf. Again nothing fancy.
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90 Volvo 240-my current setup.
B230ft rebuilt -8.8 comp. -Stage 3 rsi cam
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sons car- 93 240-15g turbo-chipped-95,000 miles. Slick car

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Old 10-01-2020, 10:24 AM   #4
onelow89s10
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I’ll get some pics up in the next few days. I need to get the door speaker amp in. My sub amp is almost 4000 watts. The whole cargo area will more than likely be full of subs.
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Old 10-01-2020, 11:04 PM   #5
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Check out LAF Audio on IG, his name is Barnaby and he owns Adam’s (Atom) old graffiti’d 245. Crazy audio builder. @lange_audio_fabrication
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Old 10-02-2020, 12:38 AM   #6
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I've got a massive audio hippo152xl...2000wrms cea cert...350 oz magnet and a pheonix gold 450w 4 channel speaker amp for alpine type r speakers, haven't put em in the vo yet casue it doesn't have enough alternator
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Old 10-02-2020, 01:47 AM   #7
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I've got a massive audio hippo152xl...2000wrms cea cert...350 oz magnet and a pheonix gold 450w 4 channel speaker amp for alpine type r speakers, haven't put em in the vo yet casue it doesn't have enough alternator
I feel your alternator pains. At least until my 270a one gets shipped back to me. Hopefully it will be in this next week so I can get started really putting stuff together.
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:15 AM   #8
James M
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One of my 240s has a driver's door speaker that recently started working again when I went over a bump
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Old 10-02-2020, 07:51 AM   #9
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15 year old pics of my first 245 that I put my son (woodenpudden) in.
The amps were under the rear floor, and I think it was a rockford fosgate head unit. Might have been Boston Acoustic front speakers with tweeters on the dash. Can't remember what rear door speakers.









It wasn't completely sealed at the rear, and I was never happy with the bass response (phasing issues maybe?).
It was also my first attempt at this style of baffle board, so I didn't go for showroom quality (plus, the interior was rough)

That car was hit by an idiot in the snow, but I have a 245 I will be doing a single (probably) in, haven't decided what else to use.

Bonus pic of my ranger with Polks in the front, tweeters flush in top of dash, mids in rear, single sub (17 years ago).
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Old 10-02-2020, 10:52 AM   #10
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Not bad looking mike. I’m trying to get some decent pics to post up soon. I been busy trying to get everything together
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Old 10-02-2020, 11:32 AM   #11
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My '90 744





The system:
-Alpine CDE-147BT head unit
-Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" components in the front doors
-Rockford Fosgate Punch 5.5" components in the rear doors
-2 12" RE Audio SX Series subs
-Kicker DX1000.1 running the subs
-Alpine 240.4 running the doors
-Box designed and built by Kerry from Modesto. Tuned to ~35hz
-Stock Volvo 100amp alternator and new Volvo battery. Big three
-Nvx and GT Mat sound deadening in the trunk, rear shelf, and rear seat
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Old 10-02-2020, 01:22 PM   #12
onelow89s10
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That’s really clean. I gotta get some pics up and some more work done lol
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:42 PM   #13
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I put boston acoustic 4 1/2's in the doors along with some dynamat one time... that's a s far as I ever got. Had a vague idea of maybe putting 6 1/2's in the rear hatch (it's a 245) and a single 10 somewhere? i like the cargo area subfloor for amplifiers- mine is rusty so I have to replace it anyway and i was thinking maybe fiberglass instead of metal... anyway, following for ideas
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelow89s10 View Post
That’s really clean. I gotta get some pics up and some more work done lol
Thanks!

Can you share what your setup is? If you need help posting photos, there is a thread here explaining how to do it. Otherwise us members can help. Keep on rockin!
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelow89s10 View Post
Not bad looking mike. I’m trying to get some decent pics to post up soon. I been busy trying to get everything together
Thanks. It looked great but sounded underwhelming. I rushed it. I prefer to get the front right first, then add bass.

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Originally Posted by Kenunot View Post
I put boston acoustic 4 1/2's in the doors along with some dynamat one time... that's a s far as I ever got. Had a vague idea of maybe putting 6 1/2's in the rear hatch (it's a 245) and a single 10 somewhere? i like the cargo area subfloor for amplifiers- mine is rusty so I have to replace it anyway and i was thinking maybe fiberglass instead of metal... anyway, following for ideas
I did a suburban once with 4x10s over the rear hatch, always wanted to unhook them. It sounded good in the back seat, but the vocals were off when sitting up front. Rear doors were mids, but i could only get 3-way 4x10s. Maybe i should have cut the tweeter wires.
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Old 10-02-2020, 09:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR1CKHOUS3 View Post
Thanks!

Can you share what your setup is? If you need help posting photos, there is a thread here explaining how to do it. Otherwise us members can help. Keep on rockin!
Well it’s a slow process getting everything together but as of next weekend I should have my dc power inc. 270a alternator in. Have 1/0 big 3 wiring already run and a 1/0 run to the back. I will be working this weekend on a battery box/amp rack for my 2 xs power d3100 batteries going in the rear. I currently have a kenwood deck running sundown 6.5cx components in the front doors and a sundown saz-3500d amd pushing a little sundown sa8 wired up at 4 ohms lol makes for a really efficient 750ish watts. Once I get my other batteries and alternator in I’ll be moving up to a sundown x15 with a custom recone. In the end I’ll probably end up with 2 15-18 inch subs or 4 12s not really sure which route I will finally decide to take
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Old 10-02-2020, 10:57 PM   #17
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I haven't done a stereo build recently, and didn't take pics of the last few, but have been slowly collecting some high end components for my '78 242 build. I will document it in my build thread.

Guys, face your subs towards the rear of the car. It will improve the response and sound immensely. The idea is that a bass note, like any other, is a wave. If you send it straight up, or out the side, someone hears it, but not you. Insulate the rear of the car so it bounces back towards the passenger compartment. The sound wave needs a certain length, the deeper the bass, the longer the wave. So if the sub is facing towards you, it might sound best somewhere around the middle of your hood. Bounce it off the tailgate, and it will make a full wave when it hits you.
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Old 10-02-2020, 11:57 PM   #18
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Very well put 2turbo. Im tossing up the idea of actually doing a c-pillar wall but unless you’re taking it as far as I plan on going definitely face them to the rear. Or in a wagon custom build a box with sub up and port to the rear.
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Old 10-03-2020, 12:19 AM   #19
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Ports can face up, but are better facing the back, subs should face back.
I have actually ruined a couple cars with subwoofers, buckled the trunks, mirrors fell off, etc. I usually prefer 10" subs for a wider response, but I always felt Kicker was onto something with the square subs, those are mean as hell. I built a system for a friend with them, but do not have one. I
So far I have a pair of Phoenix Gold MS-275 cheater amps, but none of my other gear can keep up with them. And each amp can draw over 75 amps a piece, so very large wires are needed. Since Kicker doesn't make the squares anymore I need an NOS one. One 10" with dual 2 ohm coils on this amp, will be crazy.
The easy way to confirm what I am saying is to drop the sub in a simple box that can be flipped to face up, or wherever. You will want everything facing towards the rear, I would bet $$ on it.
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Old 10-03-2020, 12:25 AM   #20
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I have put many systems together in my days and while you would usually get better performance with facing the whole deal towards the rear I have had great success with running larger/ larger amounts of subs setup sub up port back. But definitely unless you have some custom band pass made where you’re porting into the cabin from the trunk you want everything ported to the rear
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Old 10-03-2020, 12:27 AM   #21
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I like the lowest of the lows btw I have destroyed cars with a few builds. Had one car tear the roof panel right at the sunroof. From then on I decided I wasn’t going to get crazy in a sunroof car again
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Old 10-03-2020, 10:44 PM   #22
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9-A746895-B923-476-E-BEDB-3007-AEE50-A98


AABEF4-AC-5-A9-F-47-B7-8253-496-B0-FA0-B88-D



Couple quick pics I grabbed today. Cleaned everything up and getting ready to build the amp/battery rack tomorrow

Last edited by onelow89s10; 10-03-2020 at 11:05 PM..
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Old 10-05-2020, 08:13 PM   #23
onelow89s10
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1-F15-AFB1-FB01-4-C2-B-9-DA1-373740-AF5246


3-FC0-BFA9-FB86-49-F3-9177-620986-D1-CCFE


42-ED2407-49-B9-4712-BD4-F-1-FFA3717-EF8-E


4-F2-AB3-D3-9-EFC-4-C15-A17-B-35-D1-A0-F5-CE79


66-D4-AB88-149-A-487-D-B59-C-4-A3-B6825-BD4-F


8-F323-C2-C-301-A-4-A7-F-A0-BA-8-BBB599766-CD


A8-D734-AB-D1-C1-4-D88-8-BBC-D830608-E3-BDE


AC2328-D0-609-B-4-F25-8-E14-B52-AB20-A822-C


B356876-F-8-C5-C-4-F42-A34-B-D9-BA34-FA889-E


BC3-B7350-6-A64-4844-8-E20-5-A9-DF6-ACD992


D72-EE448-75-F2-4106-88-B2-72-E60590-E2-CF


FD786832-1582-462-A-8-E8-F-7722896-E7344




More work done. Now to work on some bigger subs. Sorry for the pics being small and out of order. Need to find a better hosting site
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Old 10-05-2020, 09:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelow89s10 View Post
I have put many systems together in my days and while you would usually get better performance with facing the whole deal towards the rear I have had great success with running larger/ larger amounts of subs setup sub up port back. But definitely unless you have some custom band pass made where you’re porting into the cabin from the trunk you want everything ported to the rear
The reason I say face the sub towards the rear is because of the wavelength. For example, an 80Hz wave is 14.13 ft long. So if it can be properly deflected inside the car, if your roof is well insulated, it will work. The sound isn't really coming from the ports. The speaker size doesn't affect this, speaker size only affects the frequency response, meaning a larger speaker will play deeper notes obviously.

You need to be able to bounce the wave around inside the car to maximize your setup.

Your work looks nice from what I can see in the small pics, have you tried Imgur?
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Old 10-05-2020, 09:23 PM   #25
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This is as far as I got on my latest stereo hahaha, the engine swap is more important at the moment.

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