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Old 10-20-2020, 11:31 AM   #1
Jdvolvo240
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Default 1990 volvo 240 m47 transmission swap

I've got an automatic 1990 240 that I'm trying to swap to a manual, I've got the m47 tranny and the flywheel that I pulled from a 91. I will be buying an aftermarket clutch pedal as I could not freaking get the other one of the donor car. Is there anything else I need before I start the swap. I have found a few threads talking about needing the drive shaft because it's "different lengths" but on some other threads on various websites, they never mentioned the drive shaft. Just trying to be prepared cause I want to be able to do all the work over a weekend and don't want the car to sit for a long time while I wait for another wrecked 240 to show up in my local junkyard.

Just to reiterate so people aren't telling me I need the flywheel, clutch cable and so on, I have the following parts:

M47 transmission
Flywheel
Clutch cable
Will be buying clutch kit from ipd
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:39 AM   #2
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It's been a lonnnng time since I did this swap in my '93. Sorry if I forget anything.

- you do need the driveshaft - the front section is a different length. They didn't bother making all the different transmission options the same length
- little thing, but there's a snapring/clip that holds the pilot bearing in that isn't included in a clutch kit
- the pedal box on an automatic 240 is missing the right side support for the pedal - you'll need that.

I don't think the crossmember needs to change.
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:40 AM   #3
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You'll need the driveshaft. Not 100% sure but I think you'll need the transmission crossmember as well
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:46 PM   #4
Jdvolvo240
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You'll need the driveshaft. Not 100% sure but I think you'll need the transmission crossmember as well
It doesn't look like the cross member is different, bolts up in the same place as the other. Even looks like the same transmission mount. I'll go pull the driveshaft tomorrow then. Sucks cause this will be the 3rd day in the junkyard lol. Took us 5 hours to pull the transmission. Went back today to grab the flywheel and try to grab the pedal assembly (which wouldn't come out. Idk if I'm missing a bolt or nut somewhere up in there). Hopefully everything I need is still there tomorrow.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:48 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
It's been a lonnnng time since I did this swap in my '93. Sorry if I forget anything.

- you do need the driveshaft - the front section is a different length. They didn't bother making all the different transmission options the same length
- little thing, but there's a snapring/clip that holds the pilot bearing in that isn't included in a clutch kit
- the pedal box on an automatic 240 is missing the right side support for the pedal - you'll need that.

I don't think the crossmember needs to change.


So what you're saying is I only need the front section? I wonder if it's easier to pull just the front section as apposed to the whole driveshaft from the tranny back to the diff. Never had to even touch a driveshaft before so I'm learning as I'm going.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:04 PM   #6
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You can pull them apart at the slip joint, but you have to reassemble them correctly. Easier to just grab the whole thing. 4 bolts at either end, two holding the center support.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:09 PM   #7
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You can pull them apart at the slip joint, but you have to reassemble them correctly. Easier to just grab the whole thing. 4 bolts at either end, two holding the center support.
What do you mean reassemble them correctly? We've already got the bolts off of the transmission side. I was thinking it might be cheaper at the junkyard to just pull the front half, I didn't think there was any specific way to put it back together lol.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Jdvolvo240 View Post
So what you're saying is I only need the front section? I wonder if it's easier to pull just the front section as apposed to the whole driveshaft from the tranny back to the diff. Never had to even touch a driveshaft before so I'm learning as I'm going.
yes, only the front half of the driveline will be different, guibo type and length. cross member will be the same, the rubber mount may or may not be different. you will also need to get or make the jumper for the connector at the neutral safety switch on the left of the center console. I can take a pic later of where that is. attached is a page out of the greenbook, E anf F is the switch/jumper.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:38 PM   #9
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What do you mean reassemble them correctly? We've already got the bolts off of the transmission side. I was thinking it might be cheaper at the junkyard to just pull the front half, I didn't think there was any specific way to put it back together lol.
Driveshaft is balanced, if you separate and don't put it back the same way there's a chance your u-joints will take a dump. If you only take the front half you should have your complete driveshaft rebalanced. This can make a huge difference in ride quality, not to mention less wear and tear on the trans and diff.

When I threw an M46 in my wagon a year ago I neglected to have the driveshaft balanced. In retrospect I would have replaced all the u-joints (cheap easy job) and sent it out for balancing. Not a bad idea to replace the center support bearing while you're at it. Everything's out, now's the time to do it.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Jdvolvo240 View Post
What do you mean reassemble them correctly? We've already got the bolts off of the transmission side. I was thinking it might be cheaper at the junkyard to just pull the front half, I didn't think there was any specific way to put it back together lol.
drivelines are balanced as a whole, if they are not reassembled in the same orientation to each other or if 2 different halves are together it can cause vibration, so like John said, its better to get the whole thing. assembling them correctly means lining up the u-joints mainly. so if you do get just the front half, you would want to take it in to a driveline shop for balancing
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jdvolvo240 View Post
What do you mean reassemble them correctly? We've already got the bolts off of the transmission side. I was thinking it might be cheaper at the junkyard to just pull the front half, I didn't think there was any specific way to put it back together lol.
The phasing of the u-joints needs to be correct between the front an rear halves. I think the Volvo splines only let you put it together one way (a fat or skinny spline?) bit I forget.

I got the front half of the driveshaft with mine, I recall it being harder than expected to separate and reconnect the different front section.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:59 PM   #12
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The phasing of the u-joints needs to be correct between the front an rear halves. I think the Volvo splines only let you put it together one way (a fat or skinny spline?) bit I forget.

I got the front half of the driveshaft with mine, I recall it being harder than expected to separate and reconnect the different front section.
Okay! Thanks for the help! I will see if I can get the whole drive shaft, if not, I'll see if I can get just the front half. If not again, I guess I gotta find a used one online. Don't think I'll run into any problems! Thank you for the help and clarifying what is needed. Can't wait to swap this over into the car now!
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Old 10-20-2020, 03:14 PM   #13
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And it's a freaking PITA struggle, possibly more than pulling the whole trans, but you'll need that pedal box too. Unless the aftermarket clutch pedal somehow comes with a bracket to support the left/outer side?

Come to think of it, I actually have a manual 240 pedal box sitting in a box in the basement. It was a hydraulic setup, I used those parts on my CD009 swap, and stuck the cable pedal on it.
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Old 10-20-2020, 04:13 PM   #14
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I have mixed and matched driveshafts many times without rebalancing. You do have to make sure they're in phase, but I seem to remember that the shafts have dots of blue or yellow paint or something to line up. It's hard to mess up if you are aware that it matters.

One of the cars we swapped shaft sections on is our race car, which sees as much as 6800 driveshaft rpm with nary a wobble.
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:42 PM   #15
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Here is a picture of the actual jumper and location of it, this is where your park neutral safety switch plugs in.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:43 PM   #16
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And it's a freaking PITA struggle, possibly more than pulling the whole trans, but you'll need that pedal box too. Unless the aftermarket clutch pedal somehow comes with a bracket to support the left/outer side?

Come to think of it, I actually have a manual 240 pedal box sitting in a box in the basement. It was a hydraulic setup, I used those parts on my CD009 swap, and stuck the cable pedal on it.
How much would you be willing to sell it for? It's exactly the same as the pedal box with the clutch cable right? The aftermarket one has a firewall mount brace held in with two bolts. I figured that would be easier to install vs the oem pedal box.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:48 PM   #17
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cross member is different. ideally you get the m47 cross member but the aw70 one can work.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:48 PM   #18
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Here is a picture of the actual jumper and location of it, this is where your park neutral safety switch plugs in.
Thanks! I appreciate that. I'll save that for later! Also, I pulled the driveshaft today. My dad is gonna get me the diff out of a manual car in his local junkyard. The diff was already pulled from the one in my local junkyard. Also, as I was picking the driveshaft up out of the bed of my truck, the two halves just split. I guess the rear driveshaft has an input shaft that goes into the forward section. Sucks cause now I have to find that yellow dot someone was talking about but I'm afraid it might be worn away (driveshaft has some surface rust)
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:14 PM   #19
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How much would you be willing to sell it for? It's exactly the same as the pedal box with the clutch cable right? The aftermarket one has a firewall mount brace held in with two bolts. I figured that would be easier to install vs the oem pedal box.
Ah, if the aftermarket one comes with a brace, you're good. I thought it was just the pedal.

Yeah, swapping the entire box is a big PITA. When I initially did mine (automatic to M47) I had the complete pedal box, but it looked like a LOT of work (maybe complicated by my late model knee-bolster 240?), so I just trimmed off that outside edge and bolted that in, and the other bolts that hold the pedal also help secure it.

I kept the automatic rear axle with the M47, and it was a bit on the short side, gearing wise. 1st gear was somewhat useless, barely got you across the intersection on a green light, before shifting. Rarely even got into boost, it came and went so quickly (and that was with a 16T).

I ended up swapping to a T5 a few months later after 3rd gear turned into a noisy neutral. Cool fall weather and boost.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:16 PM   #20
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I wouldn't bother with the 3.31 manual diff/ axle. That's alot of work for debatable gain. The 3.73 auto rear end makes the car a little more peppy. With the 3.73, you'll be at 3000 RPM on the highway at 70 with a 195/65r15 or 195/75r14 tire, which in my opinion, just fine, though less fuel efficient. First gear is short, but nice for traffic and hill starts. I think the ideal rear end for a 240 with M47 would be a 3.54 from a 7/9 series, split the difference, but eh...
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:44 PM   #21
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Yeah, with no turbo on the motor, I'd just leave the rear end as is for now and see how you like it, and only change it if you want taller gearing.

A normally aspirated motor would probably work better with lower gearing.
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:17 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Jdvolvo240 View Post
Also, as I was picking the driveshaft up out of the bed of my truck, the two halves just split. I guess the rear driveshaft has an input shaft that goes into the forward section. Sucks cause now I have to find that yellow dot someone was talking about but I'm afraid it might be worn away (driveshaft has some surface rust)
The drive shaft halves have arrows stamped into them that must be aligned. The yellow dots of paint are near the arrows but aren't precise enough to align the halves. This illustration shows them as actual arrows but they look more like this.

_________\ /________



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Old 10-21-2020, 02:57 PM   #23
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I wouldn't bother with the 3.31 manual diff/ axle. That's alot of work for debatable gain. The 3.73 auto rear end makes the car a little more peppy. With the 3.73, you'll be at 3000 RPM on the highway at 70 with a 195/65r15 or 195/75r14 tire, which in my opinion, just fine, though less fuel efficient. First gear is short, but nice for traffic and hill starts. I think the ideal rear end for a 240 with M47 would be a 3.54 from a 7/9 series, split the difference, but eh...
I've got 245/35r17 (8.5 in wide wheels) on my car now. I wonder if that would help keep rpms down at higher speeds. That's my only worry as I'm driving to colorado (10 hrs away from me) next summer for a car meet. Wouldn't want to be cruising for 10+ straight hours at 3-4k (from other posts I've read). Might be different with the bigger wheels? Who knows, waiting on another paycheck for the clutch kit from ipd and the wilwood clutch pedal and then I'll start the swap. I'll be sure to post some picks for everyone that's helped out with giving information!
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:10 PM   #24
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Ah, if the aftermarket one comes with a brace, you're good. I thought it was just the pedal.

Yeah, swapping the entire box is a big PITA. When I initially did mine (automatic to M47) I had the complete pedal box, but it looked like a LOT of work (maybe complicated by my late model knee-bolster 240?), so I just trimmed off that outside edge and bolted that in, and the other bolts that hold the pedal also help secure it.

I kept the automatic rear axle with the M47, and it was a bit on the short side, gearing wise. 1st gear was somewhat useless, barely got you across the intersection on a green light, before shifting. Rarely even got into boost, it came and went so quickly (and that was with a 16T).

I ended up swapping to a T5 a few months later after 3rd gear turned into a noisy neutral. Cool fall weather and boost.
How are you supposed to remove the pedal box? I removed all the bolts but that sucker won't budge. I'm at a loss on where to go next other then pulling the steering column and seeing if that frees up enough room to get it off.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:16 PM   #25
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How are you supposed to remove the pedal box? I removed all the bolts but that sucker won't budge. I'm at a loss on where to go next other then pulling the steering column and seeing if that frees up enough room to get it off.
You might not need to if you have a brace that came with your pedal.

Do you have a link to the pedal?

The automatic box has all the holes in places for the right side of the pedal, it's just entirely missing that left side.

I've never had mine out either, like I said, it looked too hard, so I just trimmed off the left side of the manual box and bolted that in.
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