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Finally, she is mine: 1966 Volvo 122s

No, not the light.
this is the switch that broke. That plastic face (on the back of that in the picture), "popped" off and drained the entire brake system instantly
fullsize_1621.jpg


Also, I would recommend an alternator setup... generator is super heavy and inefficiency.
 
EDIT: Treed... He means the brake light switch - it's a hydraulic switch that screws into the brake system, senses hydraulic pressure in the system and turns on the brake lights. I guess his switch mechanically failed and let the brake fluid spew out.

Is it possible the pulley has a left hand threaded nut on it? No clue, but sometimes rotating things like that have backwards stuff.
 
Is it possible the pulley has a left hand threaded nut on it? No clue, but sometimes rotating things like that have backwards stuff.

This is a possibility. The PO said he hit it with an air gun so if it is reverse threaded I'm sure it's really stuck on there now. I will try and yank at it when I get home today.
 
Sweet car, looks like a nice survivor. You won't need to do much to have a nice daily driver there. My wife just got a '66 1800S which has the same B18 as your car and shares a lot of running gear, suspension, etc. If you ever want to get together to work on these old beasties let me know... we are in the South Bay area.
 
Sweet car, looks like a nice survivor. You won't need to do much to have a nice daily driver there. My wife just got a '66 1800S which has the same B18 as your car and shares a lot of running gear, suspension, etc. If you ever want to get together to work on these old beasties let me know... we are in the South Bay area.

Yes, I need some local friends who know about these cars. When I get it running and want to tear into, I'll look you up.

Is there a LA t-bricker group on this site?
 
As far as the single circuit braking goes, they can be quite dangerous. Essentially all four corners are actuated by a single piston in the master cylinder so any leak Causes a failure.

A blown rear wheel cylinder, no brakes.
Torn front line, no brakes.
Bad MC piston, no brakes.
Leaky brake light switch, no brakes.

Upgrade it to a dual piston and you'll only loose one axle at a time if you have a failure.

But you'll have to learn how to bend and flare brake lines.

Cheers Adam from NC.
 
Yes, I need some local friends who know about these cars. When I get it running and want to tear into, I'll look you up.

Is there a LA t-bricker group on this site?

There are occasional So-Cal meets, get-togethers, and shows but I haven't made it to any of them...too many projects lined up right now occupying my weekends!

Speaking of bending and flaring brake lines, I just did that on my wife's 1800. We swapped the rear end and apparently the hard lines were rusted out internally since the ends just twisted and crumbled when I loosened them. I have the tools if you need to do hard lines on your Amazon.
 
Speaking of bending and flaring brake lines, I just did that on my wife's 1800. We swapped the rear end and apparently the hard lines were rusted out internally since the ends just twisted and crumbled when I loosened them. I have the tools if you need to do hard lines on your Amazon.

So if I swap out the master cylinder, I'll need to swap all of the brake lines as well? This sounds intriguing, so I might take you up on your offer.
 
Not sure, but I would guess that swapping to a dual circuit master cyl. would necessitate some new hard lines. I believe that's what savestheday was implying. The PO of my wife's car (122power) bent up all new lines for the front of the 1800; he could probably elaborate on that as well.
 
More than likely one hard line to connect to wherever the front brake junction/splitter is and one to the rear proportioning valve. I'm assuming it has front disc and rear drums, so it has a proportioning valve somewhere. It would be sweet if you plummed in an adjustable prop valve to adjust the brake bias for whenever you put an LS1 or something in it.

Also, I just at 12 enchiladas at the local mexican restaurant. Needless to say I get my picture on the wall. And I can comment on this using my iPhone now!
 
the splitter is at the switch junction at the firewall. The rear brakes are terrible to service due to the tapered rear axles. When they do work correctly, they are fine. Good luck getting them off!
 
A little update. I went ahead and went through the car today to clean out what was left over from the PO. I found out what was cushioning the drivers seat:


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6768885273_ea61639161_z.jpg">


Old pants of course! He was also kind enough to leave behind some goodies:


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6768708311_32fe4dcd65_z.jpg">

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6768705469_9cd62e8503_z.jpg">

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6768703913_fc311f9c56_z.jpg">


Can anyone tell me what these two chrome handles go to?


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6768702369_baff11810d_z.jpg">


I did get to get a better look at it today. I discovered there may be some rust that goes through in the trunk, but it's on a flat surface so it shouldn't be too hard to patch. I also went ahead and pulled out the generator. Here I am, under the car, trying my best to pull that long bolt out, only to realize it hits the radiator. So what do I do? I remove the radiator of course! That should do it...oh wait, now it hits the frame. How the heck did they get this thing in there?! Oh, now I see, those three bolts. That was fun.


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6768880853_8c5229e14c_z.jpg">


I'm looking into some alternator options and seeing if the PO can find the bracket and alternator he had in there at one point. If not, I will throw the generator back in there. I am still in need of a pulley though because the old one won't come off of the old generator, so if anyone has one, let me know! I also realized that she has a busted lip.


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6768711999_bfacdbce7b_z.jpg">


Someone also mentioned that this was a later model radiator. Can anyone tell me which car it came from? I need to get a new one I think, the PO said this one was leaking from a few spots. The coolant reservoir and tube were disconnected and the pipe piece that comes off of the radiator was all taped up. Would there be a reason for that?


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6768883715_cbb92bf898_z.jpg">


The PO said there was some aftermarket alarm installed, could these be from that?


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6768882255_1fe0bcfbd6_z.jpg">


Ok, that's all for now! I'll leave with a picture of her getting some air. The wife keeps telling me I should not go into work so I can get this car running. Huh? Ok honey, whatever you say.


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6768713271_0de14c9e06_z.jpg">
 
Don't put the generator on there.,

I will sell you the alternator, bracket, and regulator for $30 + shipping. $40 less than what I paid for it. Just so you have something decent in there haha
 
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