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Ian's BAFTRs (Big A** F***ing Torque Rods)

Good idea, those sleeves crack pretty easily being so thin under any decent power.

I'm not putting any extra power to my wheels. Stock NA B230 right now.

As of right now, I didn't ream the mounting holes, or use a reducer sleeve.

So far, friction seems to keep it in place. A bit of a force fit might be helping too, as the ball joint width is 2" (50.8mm), and mounting tab on axle is 50mm.

If I start noticing creaking or shifting during acceleration or reversing, I'll ream the axle side for the 1/2" greasable bolts I bought.

The ID of the ball joint is a good bit larger than 0.500", measured at 0.515", so actually 13mm.
 
Good idea, those sleeves crack pretty easily being so thin under any decent power.

They are holding up fine on hacksters car... he makes decent power.

They can get hammered when you have loose bolts.

A thin SS sleeve that is backed by a Hardened alloy steel bearing is essentially the same as the bearing itself having a smaller ID.
 
They are holding up fine on hacksters car... he makes decent power.

They can get hammered when you have loose bolts.

A thin SS sleeve that is backed by a Hardened alloy steel bearing is essentially the same as the bearing itself having a smaller ID.
Never had loose torque rod bolts, the lower trailing arm bolt did lossen after a few launches before folding your tubular arms.
Checking fasteners for loosening and retorque is pretty normal for a car that's tracked as you would know. hacksters car also hasd fasteners loosen. I also drag race which is harder on those specific parts, I guarantee I make 150-200 more whp which hammers those parts even more, but your computer analysis overrides and real world experiences.
 
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Never had loose torque rod bolts, the lower trailing arm bolt did lossen after a few launches before folding your tubular arms.
Checking fasteners for loosening and retorque is pretty normal for a car that's tracked as you would know. hacksters car also hasd fasteners loosen. I also drag race which is harder on those specific parts, I guarantee I make 150-200 more whp which hammers those parts even more, but your computer analysis overrides and real world experiences.


mine came loose out of the body, Second time around I blue loctite them in.
 
Just following up in case anyone wants to do similar as me- the johnny joint torque rods in combo with Ben's spherical TABs seems to allow full articulation without binding, even with longer shocks.

I kept rubber in the front of the trailing arms, and the johnny joints have poly in them, and it makes for a comfy ride. More road noise is transmitted into the cabin, but the ride quality is still comfortable

dN3rbO5h.jpg
 
Just following up in case anyone wants to do similar as me- the johnny joint torque rods in combo with Ben's spherical TABs seems to allow full articulation without binding, even with longer shocks.

I kept rubber in the front of the trailing arms, and the johnny joints have poly in them, and it makes for a comfy ride. More road noise is transmitted into the cabin, but the ride quality is still comfortable

dN3rbO5h.jpg

Which ends did you use that take a rubber bushing? Is that a commonly available replacement part?

I did see ridetech's R-joint hybrid that looks appealing as well.

https://www.ridetech.com/info/rod-end-revolution-suspension-joints-improve-your-driving-experience/
 
Which ends did you use that take a rubber bushing? Is that a commonly available replacement part?

I did see ridetech's R-joint hybrid that looks appealing as well.

https://www.ridetech.com/info/rod-end-revolution-suspension-joints-improve-your-driving-experience/

Not rubber. Polyurethane. The Johnny Joints are essentially the same as the R joint. They had the R-joint on display at summit. I don't remember if they were greasable or not.

I used the LH & RH thread version of these: CE-9112SP-12

Currie (the JJ oem) sells rebuild kits.

As of currently on my car:

  • Front Trailing arm:
    OE rubber​
  • Rear Trailing arm:
    BNE Heim​
  • Torque rod:
    Johnny Joint​
  • Panhard rod:
    IPD poly​
 
Not rubber. Polyurethane. The Johnny Joints are essentially the same as the R joint. They had the R-joint on display at summit. I don't remember if they were greasable or not.

I used the LH & RH thread version of these: CE-9112SP-12

Currie (the JJ oem) sells rebuild kits.

As of currently on my car:

  • Front Trailing arm:
    OE rubber​
  • Rear Trailing arm:
    BNE Heim​
  • Torque rod:
    Johnny Joint​
  • Panhard rod:
    IPD poly​


Thanks, I somewhere along the way thought you went to rubber in the front position of your trailing arm. I?d like to do this like Ben did with his hybrid torque rods.
 
Thanks, I somewhere along the way thought you went to[*stayed with] rubber in the front position of your trailing arm. I?d like to do this like Ben did with his hybrid torque rods.
He did stay with rubber in the front position of the trailing arm as quoted in your post.
 
Nice work, OP. I might make a set of these, but instead use the 0.625 hole diameter, 1.6" wide Johnny Joints so I can make some spacers on the lathe so the fit is totally metric and holy.
 
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