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My '91 744 B204GT project

Progress with the large 960 throttle body today.

Initially I was following >this< thread but then I had to combine the parts even more because of fitting the TPS.

To summarize it:

From B204FT this is used:
- TPS
- throttle shaft + throttle plate screws
- linkage lever

From 960 this is used:
- throttle body
- throttle plate
- throttle body gasket

Plus there is extra drilling/tapping required into the 960 throttle body as there are no holes for the TPS.

Size comparison
wjCaTFth.jpg


Tapping the 960 throttle body (M4 thread)
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B204 TPS mounted into 960 TB
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Enlarging the B204 gasket
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And finally mounted on the intake
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Waterjet cut flange arrived so I progressed with the wasted spark install. As I wanted to keep it stealth, the coil is installed where the distributor was originally located (and serves as a distributor plug retainer as well) and the power stage is below it.
The whole flange is then mounted in the original distributor holes using two phenolic spacers to isolate it from heat.
It is tight but sits perfectly. I have some more flanges available by the way...in case anyone is interested. It is 4mm stainless steel.
Also I had to extend the ignition wires by 10cm each. 7mm silicone ignition wires used.

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Driveshaft with new center rubber support & bearing is back in.
Lower chassis brace back in.
Clutch flushed with new brake fluid, waiting for the pressure bleeder to get rid of the remaining air.
Keyless system installed, new lock actuator into the driver's door added.
Switch to play with the ez116k advance/retard pins 18&19 installed.
Engine harness cleaned up.

During next week I should receive lh/ezk custom remapped chips from Bijlsma Technical Innovations...also my rebuilt turbocharger should arrive soon...more to follow then :cool:
 
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The clutch hydraulics was bled few days ago, no air bubbles anymore.

This is the clutch travel (using 4.5mm pivot ball shims) using the full pedal range - does it look good?

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OB9bag9Sczo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Progress with the large 960 throttle body today.

Initially I was following >this< thread but then I had to combine the parts even more because of fitting the TPS.

To summarize it:

From B204FT this is used:
- TPS
- throttle shaft + throttle plate screws
- linkage lever

From 960 this is used:
- throttle body
- throttle plate
- throttle body gasket

Plus there is extra drilling/tapping required into the 960 throttle body as there are no holes for the TPS.

Size comparison
<a href="https://imgur.com/wjCaTFt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wjCaTFtl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Tapping the 960 throttle body (M4 thread)
<a href="https://imgur.com/1DT4AtW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1DT4AtWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

B204 TPS mounted into 960 TB
<a href="https://imgur.com/Xoca0cV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Xoca0cVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Enlarging the B204 gasket
<a href="https://imgur.com/5XCE4Iy"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5XCE4Iyl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

And finally mounted on the intake
<a href="https://imgur.com/MXjhJeM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MXjhJeMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Nice work Tomasss, I look forward to seeing your results once you have the 744T back "up and running".

My research led me to retain the standard throttle body diameter rather than upsizing to the 960 diameter. I found validation that the standard size would support 350hp and provide much more usable "off idle" transition. The big TB diameter will easily support 400+hp, but it comes at a drivability price. The good news for you.... if the large size disappoints, is that you can retain the 4 bolt flange pattern and return to the smaller size throttle body. I've noted the donor that you will need to find (mine came from Latvia) in my build thread.

Following your progress!
 
Indeed, I kept the original throttle body in case I am not happy with the big one. One of the complaints I had with the previous B204GT was slow throttle response, so this combined with the KL intercooler and some other modifications should improve it.
Also I was able to step up the throttle body tube diameter from 60 to 70mm.
 
Ezk is back in its place, wires for the wasted spark routed through GX12-3 aviation plug (ground + two signals).

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lower strut braces from 960 installed today...one extra hole on each side drilled and fits like oem :) the steering rack banjo needs to be tightened/resealed though.

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It looks like there is no progress, but it is actually the opposite - I have been so busy that I even had no time to post updates...

At first, I have received the polyurethane bushes from Strongflex. It fits perfectly and seems like a really good quality from reviews. I took a combination of the red and yellow (harder) to keep the car still bit more comfortable.

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Also, lots of other new parts; all Lemforder (OEM) brand:
- axle tie rods + dust-boots
- steering joints
- lower ball joints

Not surprisingly almost every part that I took out was worn out quite over the limit.

Also, my >>> rebuilt turbocharger <<< finally arrived back :oogle: so I have started with putting the MBC

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And then here I have question to turbobricks:

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This is an adapter that I've got from JW240 here on turbobricks. When we were discussing the swap of the cosworth exhaust housing, Jan wrote to me:

"I made a stainless steel adapter ring to attach the flat flanged turbine housings to the Volvo manifold."

Do I need to use it? It seems to me that both the opening on the exhaust manifold side and the turbo exhaust flange are square...and the adapter has round hole. I don't understand the benefit of adding the adapter. There was no gasket when I disassembled the manifold from the turbo...
 
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Does the JW adapter allow the flush mounting of the turbo and exhaust mani? I can't imagine another purpose for it. With a pair of flush surfaces, you can assemble with a coating of heavy grease which upon high temps will carbonize and create a gasket. I understand this is a common trick used on diesel turbos in the States.

Nice work, following your progress!
 
Yes, on both sides it allows flush mounting. But the manifold has a groove on the mating surface, it is not stepped from the base but I am thinking it might be for some kind of heat expansion? Because the other side of the original turbo looks like this...

perD1egh.jpg


Interesting thought about the grease, I was just thinking how do I create an air sealed connection...so I just grease both sides with good amount of wheel bearing grease and assemble it and it will bake during idling? I was more thinking about the exhaust mount paste...

By the way this is the gap that I'll need to seal with it, it is not big but not air tight...
And yeah, no EGTC sensor anymore! :)

XxITgCzh.jpg
 
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While crawling under the car, I also noticed that the front edge of the driver's wheel well is rusted. Originally I wanted to keep it to someone with welder, but later I just couldn't resist to give it a shot. I simply cut out the rusty section, applied the rust converter to the bare metal, replaced the structure with new metal tabs and sealed it back using polymer sealant combined with glass fiber reinforcement. Then several layers of undercoating at the end. Should be at least better than it was if nothing else :)

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As I have ditched the TCU from the car completely, I needed a new way to control the low & high speed of the fan.
So using the Revotec hose insert with M14 thread and the popular dual temperature switch from BMW, I simply connected the outputs of the sensor to the wires that were originally driven with the TCU.

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Getting ready with the turbo. Used the wheel bearing grease on the mating surfaces to seal it, also Nord Lock washers to be sure the turbo stays where it is supposed to :)

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Also, I scored set of Adhara 16" wheels...it was quite faded so I gave it some cleaning, priming and silver respray with lacquer finish. I am super happy how it came out especially considering it is just a cheap rattle-can job...:cool:

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And finally finished the front axle bushings, every single rubber there is now replaced with PU :oogle:

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