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R32rennsport's Amazon Thread

Looks clean, I agree that the factory routes were a little odd. And with changes related to different model years, it can get messy.

You may want to shield the line on the passenger side, the exhaust can get pretty hot.

Thanks! I figured someone would point that out. I already had a heat shield in mind using some unused factory holes along the frame rail. Also, my header will be wrapped so that should provided some added protection in the engine bay as well.

Also, I triple checked the bend over the throttle linkage, it has about 5mm of clearance at full throttle, no contact, even if it were close I could have just added a small throttle stop at the pedal.
 
If you wrap your exhaust, I think you'll be just fine.

If you decide to plug the holes in your firewall to avoid water or draft getting into the cabin, Harbor Freight sells a box of rubber grommets that works great. I've done roughly 5 cars with my current box and it is not empty yet. It's an alternative to VP's grommet kit.
 
I like how you sunk that Bosch coil in the firewall like that. Are you still running the stock ignition switch? It's pretty easy to make it work.

Some serious engine bay envy going on over here.
 
If you wrap your exhaust, I think you'll be just fine.

If you decide to plug the holes in your firewall to avoid water or draft getting into the cabin, Harbor Freight sells a box of rubber grommets that works great. I've done roughly 5 cars with my current box and it is not empty yet. It's an alternative to VP's grommet kit.

Thanks for the tip, I have a HF right around the corner from my work, didn't think to look for those there. Yeah, I'm plugging and sealing up everything, this car is going to be weather proof to the max.
 
I like how you sunk that Bosch coil in the firewall like that. Are you still running the stock ignition switch? It's pretty easy to make it work.

Some serious engine bay envy going on over here.

Thanks! Lots of hours spent in that small square footage.

I bought the coil relocation kit from the guy in Greece that sells a bunch of stuff on Ebay, it came QUICK, like 4 or 5 days. I opted to go super stealth and mount it from the back side and sealed it up really well instead of having the 1/2 inch chrome lip exposed.

I'm probably just going to run the stock switch for now, I bought Ron's (Swedish Embassy) push button start setup as well, haven't entirely decided what I'm going to do yet.
 
Why the big loop into the brake switch? Have you tested this with the heater and cowl drain in place?

I'm still undecided on that, but I luckily have a reference car parked right outside of the garage so I know it will work. The loop was to allow for routing of drain tube and possibly coil wire through it. I may go back and bend it differently to shrink it down a bit. I bought the premade factory tubes and I have a few spare inches on that tube since I decided to route it differently, not really interested in cutting and flaring my own right now only because I don't want to go out and buy tools for a one time gig.

I could overlap it and run it behind the left side tube but I feel like that would look messy.
 
That's one of those things where you really need to splurge on a decent tool too. I've used the cheap ones and you get more bad flares then you do good ones.
 
OK, I've been putting in some more hours in the evenings as the average temperature at night stays well into the 70s until around midnight. Knocked out installing the heater box and reinstalling the cowl rubber as I installed it backwards the first time. Waiting on a bunch of trim clips so I can put the cowl trim back on and a few other trim items around the car.
The big news was getting the drivetrain in, what a bear!!! The M41 with the remote shifter assembly definitely had me scratching my head when it came to the order of operations, nothing like the much smaller M40 and attaching the shifter after the fact. At first I tried the whole thing together, engine and trans, that was a no go. Then I tried engine then trans, still a no go, the bellhousing wouldn't clear the firewall and the input shaft was hanging up on the pressure plate. Lastly, I moved the engine off the mounts and angled it down slightly about 6 inches forward then I angled the trans up and married them together. Not looking forward to having to pull either of those in the future if needed. I hope all the trouble of adding the P1800 tunnel and remote shifter was worth the effort!!!
I mocked up the American Racing V309 Torq Thrust last night. The car sits high at the moment due to not at full operating weight which makes them look awkward but I'm still not sold on them in general. I love my wide steel wheels, it's going to be hard adjusting to something new. The large polished lips give the illusion that the wheel is much smaller then it is, as I suspected before mounting them to the car I think that I want to paint/powdercoat them a solid color... or maybe I'll just stick to what I'm used to.
Next up, bolt the aux items onto the engine, start routing wires, maybe get some lighting and bodywork back on the car. Still need to tackle sound deadening and carpets on the interior but my focus at the moment is to get this fired up and moving by August.





 
Wheels look awesome man! Great work on the brake lines as well, very clean!

Thanks, I appreciate the compliment!

Back on it for a few hours over the weekend. There was quite a bit of rust starting to form around the trunk underside were the top skin was crimped to the frame (from the previous failing trunk seal) so I took it down to metal, treated it, and gave it a fresh coat. Then I moved on to the engine bay to check clearances and take measurements for the exhaust and intake. Still unsure of primary tubing size for the exhaust system, 2, 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch with muffler and resonator, ditching the sidepipe idea though I may have them flange in a Y with a block off for future shenanigans. Good news is I have plenty of room for filters with stacks on the long induction setup with my modified wheel well, I will definitely be fabricating a support brace for it all based off the factory drawings, thinking about adding a torque mount off the block like the factory rally cars as well to minimize engine movement. Looks like the brakelines have good distance from the header on the low side but I will need a shield for the high side line as its pretty darn close to exhaust primary #4 at the firewall. Primary number one didn't sit flat on the head so I put it in a vise and bent it inline with with the other 3 and it all sits flush now.







 
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Finished the trunk lid up with some insulation and cover. Finished up the early latch conversion and made new harness for the license plate lights as well. Added a disconnect spade to the harness so if I ever need to remove the trunk lid again I can just unplug it. Really like how the back of the car looks now, especially after polishing up the original plate.



 
I'm kinda planning on moving the brake junction block when I pull the engine back out of mine soon. I've never thought it was in a great spot if you need to get to it, especially that lower line to the rear. It's even worse with the b230. Just gotta figure out where I can put it that's accessible and doesn't look awful.
 
I'm kinda planning on moving the brake junction block when I pull the engine back out of mine soon. I've never thought it was in a great spot if you need to get to it, especially that lower line to the rear. It's even worse with the b230. Just gotta figure out where I can put it that's accessible and doesn't look awful.

If I had to do it again I'd mount it under the steering shaft, maybe lower down on the firewall since that air space is already being used up by said steering shaft. That way it's tucked out of sight and still reasonably accessible. Would clean up the lines in the field of vision as well, pushing everything to the left of the engine compartment.
 
I should also add and give a shout out to Ron Kwas of Swedish Embassy. Between his brake light switch upgrade which is also a great safety improvement (notice the pressure block off on the junction) and the AC Delco alternator upgrade (as well as relocating my battery) I should be able to clean up the wiring nicely in the engine bay. Keeping it tidy will be important with the additional room needed for the DCOEs and related fuel components, oil filter relocation, and possible addition of a brake booster.
 
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why booster ? not needed at all on single circuit

It's not written in stone, I'll see how the completely overhauled brake system feels once I'm out on the road again. Prior to this restoration I was unable to lock up the wheels no matter how hard I tried. A lot of rotating mass versus stock with 15x7s and 205 section tires as well as the additional grunt of the new power plant, a little extra boost might be welcomed?
 
It's not written in stone, I'll see how the completely overhauled brake system feels once I'm out on the road again. Prior to this restoration I was unable to lock up the wheels no matter how hard I tried. A lot of rotating mass versus stock with 15x7s and 205 section tires as well as the additional grunt of the new power plant, a little extra boost might be welcomed?

makes sense - I switched to old style steelies and even older hubcaps with beauty rings (heavy wheel)

but I can get them to lock up in front. Did you install braided lines?


PS pay your registration
 
Judging by the condition of my brake system as I went through each component it was clear that I probably wasnt getting 100% out of my system. Each caliper had at least one frozen piston and the bias valve was full of shmoo. Calipers got a complete overhaul and every brakeline is new, flex lines are all braided now. Like I said, I'll see how it does out on the road during shakedown and go from there.

PS Just did yesterday, I'm stoked this years tag is yellow, it's the small details that make me smile ;-)
 
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