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Old 10-09-2016, 03:52 PM   #1
Flexter
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Default 240 melter engine bay fuse

Hello, got 1988 b230f volvo 240 and the fuse located on drivers side( lhd ) in engines bay is just completatly melted, could that be cause by fuse getting wet? and what is that fuse purpose?
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:42 PM   #2
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Main power feed for the fuel injection. Yep they do like to melt. Cheap plastic. Too much current draw. Just cause it wanted to? Your favorite parts store has one that you can make work.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:47 PM   #3
Kjets On a Plane
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Poor contacts/connections create resistance to electrical current. Resistance often creates heat.
Unsealed blade fuses on the drip edge of the hood facing upward are a corrosion magnet. Especially if warm with dissimilar metals.

The current passing through that 10ga wire shouldn't melt a fuse or holder on its own. Go find a water proof fuse holder and ensure it has a good connection?

It powers the fuel pumps and most of the FI components (ECU, injectors, idle motor, AMM etc).
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:40 AM   #4
Ron Kwas
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Forum;

Kjets touches on it with good info, but I would like to elaborate on his answer with more emphatic explanations and supporting info because this subject is quite important to reliability, so I have looked into it in-depth.

"Poor contacts/connections create resistance to electrical current. Resistance often..." [correction...always!] "...creates heat." [...and the more Resistance which occurs as a result of corrosion (which always increases with time, never decreases), the more heat due to I2R results.]

"Unsealed blade fuses on the drip edge of the hood facing upward are a corrosion magnet. Especially if warm with dissimilar metals." [Warmth will actually help dry surfaces to slow corrosion, and locating any connection poorly wont help keeping it dry, but dissimilar metals in contact and wet will definitely promote Galvanic corrosion. Certain different metals are ok to be in contact as they are not highly separated on the nobility chart, and therefore not very reactive. I expect Volvo has not engineered their electrical systems with metals highly separated on the nobility chart into their systems! See reference info!]

"The current passing through that 10ga wire shouldn't melt a fuse or holder on its own" [presuming the gauge and terminals were originally engineered and sized appropriately, and we will believe Volvo did that, excessive I2R heat should not be generated.] "Go find a water proof fuse holder..." [maybe you can find a splashproof fuseholder, but there is no such thing as a waterproof fuseholder because unless it is hermetically sealed, it will still be open to moisture containing air, and corrode because of it. The way to prevent corrosion of a connection due to exposure to moisture is to exclude that moisture...and the simplest way to obtain a Gas-Tight-Joint is to apply Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste to clean connections to encapsulate and neutralize (NOT the often, but incorrectly recommended DIELECTRIC GREASE which encapsulates but instead of neutralizing any corrosion, encloses it, allowing it to continue!) ] "...and ensure it has a good connection?" [Clean and Tight makes good connections, and ACZP keeps them that way, period!]

Additional: When they are clean and newly made at the factory, things are (almost always) fine with electrical connections. They are adequately sized and otherwise engineered to pass the expected currents. Its down the road, and way down the road, that we would like them to stay that fine, and we can help towards this by keeping connections clean and tight by protecting them with ACZP. Suggestion: The best thing that an owner can do towards this is remove all Fuses (also Bulbs, and screw or push-on Terminals, this even on a brand new car!!) and apply one of the approved ACZPs, and reconnect (be aware, not all ACZPs are suitable and approved. See my reference research and info on this here: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm http://www.sw-em.com/Comparison%20of...c%20Pastes.htm http://www.sw-em.com/Realworld%20Exp...czp_droop_test ).
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:48 AM   #5
seth1991
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Get a good quality waterproof 25A fuse holder, IPD has em and most parts stores. Splice it on, heatshrink over the splice, go about your business with less worry about contamination blowing it again. Had mine fully functional for 2 years, check on it every so often and its nice and dry in there. Packed in a little dielectric grease to keep moisture out.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:19 AM   #6
Steve Zissou
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One of your fuel pumps could have failed. In some cases this won't prevent the car from running, however current draw goes through the roof.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:51 AM   #7
ZVOLV
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Replace fuse holder and rock on
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