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Freeze plug retainer kit is necessary?

I went for the non cupped ones, since the other ones are harder to install correctly with the hammer blow required (did one for the intermediate shaft), and applied a little sealant on the edges. Also got them from kg trimming, which fit nicely. I've also added the retainers just to be safe
 
Victorrr said:
They are ahah, I'll figure out how to do some group buy for Europe or get me someone to ship them from the US...

I did some research on the matter, I haven't found much info apart from some older MG engines, is that a Red block specific issue ? Iv'e read that peoples are simply bad at installing freeze plugs + we all tend to run more power than these blocs were made for.

I would have completely went over this whole popping out issue if it wasn't for this funny thread, so yeah.
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replacement ones don't seem to fit as tight, and there's a question of water pump cavitation leading to pressure build up in the block as well. I will say this: I've turned the gold car up to about 8300 at 25psi and the OE plugs show no signs of wanting to go anywhere, so I'm thinking it's more of an issue of aftermarket/new plugs just not getting that factory fresh seal.
 
linuxman51 said:
replacement ones don't seem to fit as tight, and there's a question of water pump cavitation leading to pressure build up in the block as well. I will say this: I've turned the gold car up to about 8300 at 25psi and the OE plugs show no signs of wanting to go anywhere, so I'm thinking it's more of an issue of aftermarket/new plugs just not getting that factory fresh seal.
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Well, then it's a question of OE vs Aftermarket + retainer. I'll compare the cost, but I don't trust myself 100% when it comes to building stuff so retainer I'll go. As I plan on buying things from KG anyway
 
linuxman51 said:
replacement ones don't seem to fit as tight, and there's a question of water pump cavitation leading to pressure build up in the block as well. I will say this: I've turned the gold car up to about 8300 at 25psi and the OE plugs show no signs of wanting to go anywhere, so I'm thinking it's more of an issue of aftermarket/new plugs just not getting that factory fresh seal.
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I'm sure there was some type machine that installed all the plugs at once at the factory, it's probably the hammer blow installation process that fails.
 
VB242 said:
I'm sure there was some type machine that installed all the plugs at once at the factory, it's probably the hammer blow installation process that fails.
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From what I've read, it maybe due to the fact that peoples tend to push them in with a socket, in the center, thus deforming them. The correct way should be on the exterior lip. Maybe they had some type of press to push them in instead of banging on them like we do. I also wonder if slightly warming the block and putting them in the freezer may help, all of this with the goal of putting them in with as little friction as possible, not to deform them.... Who knows. My 2 cents.

I'll stick with using retainers, I can't sleep now that I am aware of plugs popping off.
 
linuxman51 said:
it's very easy to drill and tap the block, but yes, don't get in a rush. if you drill all the way through to the water jacket, use good sealant on your fastener(s), it'll be fine.
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When I did mine I set a depth on the first hole then had a few others pop through after, varying wall thickness. I used blue loc-tite and never had an issue.

Yes, be very slow and careful with a tap that small in cast iron. Buy Tap Magic cutting fluid.
 
Yeah I just took my time no problem. What I did what figure the best spot on each side of the plug to drill em, and each one was a little different. Some did go through.

16vracemotor2.jpg
 
sbabbs said:
Yeah I just took my time no problem. What I did what figure the best spot on each side of the plug to drill em, and each one was a little different. Some did go through.

16vracemotor2.jpg
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Nice block !
How easy/time consuming it is to repaint the block like that ? I'll try to save the paint on mine but hey.

edit : these flywheel chillin around in the corner ahah
 
Meh, I don't own a sand blasting station and I didn't plan on going to a machinist, maybe because, hm, there aren't any near my home + it costs money I guess ^^
I'll do if I have to (ie. scratches, getting the block honed if needed)
 
A bunch of degreaser, some elbow grease, then prep the block with some isopropyl alcohol to remove the last vestiges of oil, tape, spray. You can hunt around fo the proper shade of Volvo red, or use a Ford engine block paint that's waaaay more common and a little brighter.
 
JohnMc said:
A bunch of degreaser, some elbow grease, then prep the block with some isopropyl alcohol to remove the last vestiges of oil, tape, spray. You can hunt around fo the proper shade of Volvo red, or use a Ford engine block paint that's waaaay more common and a little brighter.
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My friend suggested diesel fuel. Just a small amount got the block surprisingly clean. Elbow grease still necessary.
 
soclosenotnear said:
My friend suggested diesel fuel. Just a small amount got the block surprisingly clean. Elbow grease still necessary.
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I prefer kerosene over diesel, cleaner. More expensive though.

I cleaned the underside of my 242 to bare metal and kerosene was the ticket on the greasy undercoating.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I prefer kerosene over diesel, cleaner. More expensive though.

I cleaned the underside of my 242 to bare metal and kerosene was the ticket on the greasy undercoating.
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Ooowwww NICE !

Back to the freeze plug retainer :
Anyone knows a good place in Europe to get some ? Cuz right now I only have US based ones, with expensive shipping and custom...
 
Why mess with retainers? Just tap the core plug holes and thread in pipe plugs, look up ford 427 chevy 302 and zl1 427 chevy
 
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