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240 1992 240 m47 clutch adjustment

sloopy

sloopy

2-digit whp
Joined
May 25, 2020
Location
Dallas, Texas
I've been reading up on the different clutch return arrangements on this car over the years. My car has the big weight on the end of the fork. If I understand correctly, there is supposed to be a little bit of slack. My problem is that at idle this weighted block wiggles around and makes an annoying squeaking noise that almost sounds like a squeaking belt. I actually put my foot under the clutch and pull it up to make the noise go away. I've heard from some people that I should just replace the setup with the old return spring arrangement with the different bushing and retainer and remove the return spring at the pedal. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? Has anyone here experienced this annoying squeaking?
 
How many miles are on the clutch? The throwout bearing arm pivots on a ball shaped special bolt. That can wear and cause a very loose eventually failing pivot. I would check the bolt for being loose as well. it's on the upper side of the trans opposite where the cable attaches.

You can backdate the retainer for the clutch cable to the earlier setup. Add the return spring or not. I leave the clutch pedal spring alone. Just use a softer return spring or none at all at the trans if you want a lighter pedal.
 
The odometer has read about 180k since I got the car. I can only assume it's the original clutch. The engagement point is very near the top of the pedal travel. I'll check the bolt tomorrow. I don't understand what the point of the weight is. What is it damping? Is it just to reduce vibrations in the pedal?
 
shoestring said:
I think the spec for the play is ~2mm. Plenty to feel but not a crapload. You sure it's not the throw bearing squeaking?
Click to expand...

I don't think it's the throwout bearing, but I'm not sure. The sound goes away when I push the pedal, and comes back when I let go. It also goes away if I lift the clutch pedal up to give the cable some slack. I still haven't gotten a chance to get at it. I have the rear jacked up still and I'm doing the rear suspension.
 
Is the pivot arm bolt on the bell housing going forward? If so, it's not loose, but the pivot arm is definitely loose. I can move it up and down a good 3-4mm.
 
aharres said:
I don't think it's the throwout bearing, but I'm not sure. The sound goes away when I push the pedal, and comes back when I let go. It also goes away if I lift the clutch pedal up to give the cable some slack.
Click to expand...

It's the throwout bearing lightly riding on the pressure plate tines. Thats why it comes and goes with the pedal movement. Adjust the clutch to spec and if it still does it rig up the older M46 style return spring.
 
aharres said:
Is the pivot arm bolt on the bell housing going forward? If so, it's not loose, but the pivot arm is definitely loose. I can move it up and down a good 3-4mm.
Click to expand...

that's normal

aharres said:
I also don't see this supposed small hole on the trans cross member for the return spring.
Click to expand...

there isn't one on your car. the older ones had a spot to hook the spring to like back by the cross member bushing bracket.

I rigged mine with zip ties on the transmission end and then through the fork like regular. And just leave the spring on the pedal alone.
 
Yeah I realized the spring on the pedal is actually the opposite of a return spring. It tries to push the pedal down. Can someone post a picture of where this hole in the trans crossmember is supposed to be? I'm just going to drill a hole in the same spot.
 
The hole isn't in the cross member, it's in the trans mount bracket.

GR-42829.jpg
 
Alright I found the hole! It is in fact in the trans mount bracket attached to the trans. Mine had so much gunk on it that it was invisible until I just started poking at it with the spring. Let me know if any of this looks wrong to y'all. I know my pivot arm boot is shredded. I'll replace that when I do the clutch and convert to the flat flywheel.

https://i.imgur.com/1g3rOYj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VoSeoXg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NV01VLD.jpg

I tried embedding the images, but they ended up way too big. Is there any way to scale them?
 
Last edited:
vvpete said:
On the 5-speed transmission the return is done by the spring force of the clutch cover.
Simply pull the fork back from rest position against the t/o bearing. The free play should be 3-5 mm (.1-.2 in)
Click to expand...

Ok I think I'm missing something here. I disconnected the cable from the fork and took the bell housing boot off so I could see what's going on. The clutch fork is just hanging along for the ride limp biscuits. There is no such spring except for the fingers on the pressure plate. Did something go missing?
 
aharres said:
Ok I think I'm missing something here. I disconnected the cable from the fork and took the bell housing boot off so I could see what's going on. The clutch fork is just hanging along for the ride limp biscuits. There is no such spring except for the fingers on the pressure plate. Did something go missing?
Click to expand...

Naw that's normal with the fork flopping around like that. Your not missing anything, just adjust to spec and use that spring if you like the pedal feel or it keeps squeaking
 
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