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240 Clutch replace...but now doesn?t go into any gears.

golddayton101

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Location
DFW
Today I replaced my clutch/pressure plate (84 240 turbo) with a Sachs replacement. After wrapping everything up I went to test the clutch but it doesn’t go into any gear. I tried adjusting the clutch cable but it doesn’t seem to help.
 
Won't go into gear with the engine running or at all? It still feel normal back and forth in neutral? Petal resistance feel normal?
 
Pedal feels normal. When the car is on it won’t go into any gears. I tried brute force and ended up popping my shift knob.
 
Ide make sure the fork isn't off the pivot ball or something, sounds like the TOB isn't pushing far enough.

If you start it while in gear with the clutch in does it want to move?
 
Last bit of advise I can offer before saying pull that thing back out is take a look at the fork when someone presses the clutch. If it moves freely as it should the whole way then off it comes.
 
If the pressure plate was dropped there's a chance that one or more of the 3 thin spring plates was bent. They're supposed to retract the pressure plate when the pedal is depressed. The result is that the pressure plate is always touching the disc a little and you won't be able to get the trans in gear. Unfortunately the only way to fix it is to replace the clutch again.

thumb
 
Clutch disk was put in correctly as matched with clutch disk that came out. The orientation of the throw out bearing is something that we were concerned about. Does anyone have any pictures for the correct orientation and positioning of the TO bearing? Is it larger side towards the engine or towards the trans?
 
Lwrge flat side behind pp fingers

Uh oh, I think it was installed backwards then. There was a gap of maybe less than a 1/4? at the bellhousing when we stabbed it in but it went away when tightening down the bellhousing bolts. I?m guessing the backwards TO bearing, if not seated correctly could?ve put constant pressure on the PP causing it to not want to go into gear. We?ll probably get a spare clutch kit in case anything is damaged, pull it out and replace anything that needs to be replaced if damaged.
 
Almost anything is possible. I can't imagine the noise if you did put it on backwards. The release fingers of the diaphram spring would eat that TO bearing for lunch.
 
I don't see how you could have put the TO bearing on backwards.

1220955_1.jpg

How do you reckon that? It isn?t tapered is it? If it?s the same ID on both sides it would be easy to simply flip it over and install. Again, I had a small gap on the bellhousing after stabbing the input shaft thru the pilot bearing which ended up going flush once tightening the bellhousing bolts. Like 2manyturbos said, I imagine the PP fingers would be stiff enough to tear into the TO bearing upon compression.
 
I had to go and see if it was physically possible to install the TO bearing backwards and it is. It places the fork close to the front of the window in the bell housing so that the cable wont be able to move the fork very far. Can you post a pic of the fork & bell housing?
 
Lwrge flat side behind pp fingers

Uh oh, I think it was installed backwards then.

To further clarify, the "larger" side faces the engine + clutch, so the wide flat metal surface can push against (and spin with) the pressure plate fingers. The smaller diameter goes over the trans input shaft and support "snout", while hooking onto the release fork. The fork presses against the backside of the bearing using the two wide flat strips, which act as thrust surfaces, alignment plates, and retainer clips, all at the same time.

Here's a short-fork version off youtube.
I don't know if your fork is short like this, or if yours goes all the way across.



<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lY3Y8jJCLXY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
ummm backwards? you mean on the wrong side of the fork

I think you are saying the same thing. Bearing surface facing the transmission, not the pressure plate. I would think it would destroy the pressure plate and TO bearing almost instantly if that's what happened. It certainly would not be quiet with the clutch pedal depressed.
 
OP with engine not running put it in first. Have the car positioned such that when you start it it won't run into something. Clutch to the floor. Start it. Doesn't immediately take off and go for a drive? Then you didn't lubricate the splines on the input shaft. Remember.... She no likey the dry sex! But don't overdue it with the lube. A thin axle grease on the splines such that the disc moves smoothly without excess grease flying away onto the disc. If it starts up and is immediately driving away with clutch on the floor it gets to come back apart... But for a different reason. As described above.
 
He tried starting it in gear with the clutch pedal depressed already. See post #5.

I don't think the TO bearing is in backwards. OP says the clutch pedal feels normal.

Pedal feels normal. When the car is on it won?t go into any gears. I tried brute force and ended up popping my shift knob.
 
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