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93 240 LH2.4, cant find the 25A fuse holder

240Pete

New member
Joined
Dec 13, 2015
Location
Florida
This is gonna sound crazy, but I can't find the 25A main fuel injection fuse on my friend's 1993 240. The Bentley manual shows it next to the junction block, it ain't there, or anywhere else in the engine compartment that I can see. I watched a couple of youtube videos and it looked pretty straightforward to me but I swear it's not there. Did they move this fuse to somewhere less exposed?

Any info would be welcome. Thanks all.
 
Nice of Volvo to be making changes even in the last year of production. Even in the last half of the last (shortened) year of production. AFAIK that positive battery terminal fuse block was used for only part of 93.
 
Nice of Volvo to be making changes even in the last year of production. Even in the last half of the last (shortened) year of production. AFAIK that positive battery terminal fuse block was used for only part of 93.

Yes, one last eff you. 93s can be problematic.
 
There were 3 different harnesses for 93.....ask me how I know. The PAL fuse holder on the battery was discontinued mid-year (fire hazard is one excuse I've heard - and I've seen several melted PAL holders in yards), yet the green manuals - even last revision - still showed the PAL holder there with no notation of any variance. There was also variations in plug end types where the engine harness connects to the dash. The inmates had taken over by then.
 
1991-early 1993 had fuse 6, then came the PAL holder on the battery terminal, and finally the third harness.

Last LH-Jet 240 that had the 25A ATC fuse was the final 1990 LH 2.4 240 made.
 
My car being a classic is right at the end of production. It has the PAL fuse holder on the battery terminal. About ten years ago I had to replace the battery terminal section due to corrosion. Thankfully a gold plated marine battery terminal fit like it was made for it. An annual cleaning with electrical cleaner helps.
 
Update. The reason I was hoping to find this non-existent (in this case) fuse is that I'm diagnosing a no-start for my buddy.

After swapping out both Computers with known good units, we still had no start. We do have spark, but the injectors are not firing.

Initially, I couldn't get any codes from the self diagnostic. However after changing the crank sensor, I'm getting code 144. This is a low mile car that has recently had all of the normal maintenance stuff done a week or so before the no start. Timing belt has been rechecked and is perfect, plugs, wires, cap rotor all good. Like i said, we have spark, just the Injectors won't fire.
 
Do you hear it prime the pumps when you first turn it on? If you're not getting any diag box codes when the probe is in socket #2 (ECU), but you are getting codes from socket #6 (EZK), try replacing the fuel pump relay. If you don't have a spare, you could try removing and reinstalling the one you have and then tap on it with the key on to see if you can get the pumps to prime.
 
Do you hear it prime the pumps when you first turn it on? If you're not getting any diag box codes when the probe is in socket #2 (ECU), but you are getting codes from socket #6 (EZK), try replacing the fuel pump relay. If you don't have a spare, you could try removing and reinstalling the one you have and then tap on it with the key on to see if you can get the pumps to prime.

I don't have a spare but will try this. However, I did bypass the relay and the pumps work fine.

I checked voltage at the red/black wire with the key on and only had about .6 volts, so I checked the ground on the intake manifold and as I removed it the voltage jumped up to 8.5. According to cleanflametrap, I should have full battery voltage at this red/black wire when all is normal.

Anybody ever run into this?
 
I don't have a spare but will try this. However, I did bypass the relay and the pumps work fine.

I checked voltage at the red/black wire with the key on and only had about .6 volts, so I checked the ground on the intake manifold and as I removed it the voltage jumped up to 8.5. According to cleanflametrap, I should have full battery voltage at this red/black wire when all is normal.

Anybody ever run into this?

Yes, that's what I would expect to find if the engine management fuse (#6 in the panel) has a bit of corrosion in its circuit path. Look at the fuse and its bronze terminals carefully for signs of heat, but that's not the only place the path could fail. There's also a cabin harness to engine harness connector above the passengers left knee. I've got some pics and detail, but not everything, in here: http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html The 93's are indeed a subject to themselves. I've been under the impression there were only two harnesses, early and late, but others are reporting three. I guess they grabbed whatever they could in those last days of April and May of '93 to stuff those beautiful bodies.

To verify what I'm suggesting, measure the voltage or use a test light at the red wires on the fuel relay socket (terminal 30) with the key on. Don't disconnect anything to make the measurement. You should have full battery, a direct path through fuse #6.

PS. When you removed the ground at the intake manifold, the normal load on the circuit was partially removed, so your meter would normally show an increase through the corrosion. I would avoid turning the key on with those grounds removed, fearing for the life of the fuel computer.
 
To verify what I'm suggesting, measure the voltage or use a test light at the red wires on the fuel relay socket (terminal 30) with the key on. Don't disconnect anything to make the measurement. You should have full battery, a direct path through fuse 6.

I rechecked all of my fuse connections and the junction block as well and then checked voltage at terminal 30 and had full battery voltage.

When I turned the key on, there was no click in the Fuel relay. I removed the cover and it is a corroded mess in there. Totally going to change this relay before I go any further. Will update this thread once I change the relay.
 
I rechecked all of my fuse connections and the junction block as well and then checked voltage at terminal 30 and had full battery voltage.

When I turned the key on, there was no click in the Fuel relay. I removed the cover and it is a corroded mess in there. Totally going to change this relay before I go any further. Will update this thread once I change the relay.

I always forget that possibility. I've seen it, when the relay is left hanging by its wiring. The windshield leak follows the wiring into the upside-down relay. Cover should be up, and wiring forms a drip loop below.
 
bobxyz was the first to suggest it and the Fuel Relay was the culprit. It did work occasionally, but will go no further. As a bonus, there is a windshield leak. cleanflametrap on point as well. LOL. Love these things.
 
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