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140 control arm bushing replacement

Removing bushings with the big c-clamp tool has been easy so far.

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However, it seems one of the holes in the upper arm has hollowed out to a larger diameter. With the spindle removed, I could shake the upper arm back and forth quite a bit. The new bushing almost slips in easily, so I guess the arm is scrap metal now.

I do have the upper arms from my ‘69. It seems that the -69 arms are different from 70-74, but I can’t tell where the difference is. The bushings are the same, at least according to VP.

'71 on the left, '69 on the right. (Although, knowing this car, the "71" arm might be from an earlier car)
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Can I just swap them with no ill effects? If so, any thoughts about moving the ball joint from one arm to another? Is putting it through multiple installations asking for trouble?
 
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Also, looks like I've been running cut sprangz. On the left is a stock '69 spring.
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I've always wondered whether it was lowered. Turns out it is! I have to wonder about how well the cut end plays with the very flat lower arms with no rubber spacer or anything. I'll probably swap in the '69 springs. Any experience with paint that holds up on springs? I'd like to at least clean up the rust.
 
It depends on the whether or not the '69 upper arm has the big or small ball joint. The change was in the middle of the year so it could have either one.

SB62.1FrontEnd140.jpg


140ChassisChart.jpg
 
It depends on the whether or not the '69 upper arm has the big or small ball joint. The change was in the middle of the year so it could have either one.

Thanks as always for the info! I guess the '69 was a late production car... the ball joint pins have the same diameter(s), so the arms are essentially identical, right?
 
If it has the large ball joint it's the correct arm. Also, the upper arms are the same left and right so you can use either one.
 
If it has the large ball joint it's the correct arm. Also, the upper arms are the same left and right so you can use either one.

Excellent!

I noticed that the ball joints were installed at different orientations in each car. In the '71, it was not aligned with the center of the arm.
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In the '69, it was centered. Greenbook says to center it, so I'm gonna do that unless there's an argument not to.

Also, the new lower bushings look they ought to be in a certain orientation. There is a recess in the rubber:
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Greenbook says to install with recess 95* from longitudinal axis of the arm. Am I seeing correctly that the blue dot should be pointed down plus 5* away from the balljoint end of the arm?
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The notch in the upper ball joint should be facing out.

The notch with the blue dot on the lower control arm bushing should be 90? to the ball joint plus or minus 5?.
 
Uppers bushings and ball joint swap were no problem but I am having trouble with the lowers. The metal flange is much thinner than the Volvo marked ones I removed. I'm using a tool attachment that fits very tightly around the rubber to contact the metal, and it's bending the flange down. I don't know how I could use a smaller diameter tube without crushing the rubber. I super cleaned up the inner surface of the arms, tried grease, tried freezing the bushing and heating the arm.

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I got these from VP, figuring they'd be the best available. Are there better options for rubber?
 
Man, I was imagining a tool exactly like that! Unfortunately I’m not a metal fabricator.

I got one bushing in that has a bent flange but seated all the way. I ruined the next one :-(

If the iPd ones are better, I might just bite the bullet and get a set on Monday. Are those the best rubber available, as far as you know?

edit: Actually, I do have a bunch of square keys. I bet that I can put one in each gap to spread the force better.
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I'd check with IPD first to make sure they haven't changed suppliers since that pic was taken. Your bushing is made by MTC and IPD is using the same part number (VR221) but the pic looks like a Meyle bushing. IPD may be selling the same brand as VP now that Lemforder and Meyle have stopped making them. We don't have much choice these days.
 
I'd check with IPD first to make sure they haven't changed suppliers since that pic was taken. Your bushing is made by MTC and IPD is using the same part number (VR221) but the pic looks like a Meyle bushing. IPD may be selling the same brand as VP now that Lemforder and Meyle have stopped making them. We don't have much choice these days.

That's great info!

If I can use square keys to spread the force like your tool, I feel more confident about giving it another go. I'll figure out if it works tomorrow... at the moment I'm in exhausted/frustrated/damage parts mode.
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If it works and iPd has the MTC part then I can just get one to replace the one I ruined instead of a whole new set.
 
After some mild drama, I have all new bushings up front. I also switched out the cut springs for the OE springs from my '69 parts car.

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The ride height seems absurdly high now. I did let the car down to load the suspension before torquing the bolts/nuts, but it only compresses an inch or so.

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I drove it up and down the driveway to let it settle some. Distance from center of wheel to fender is ~17-18" (on the high arch side of the car :lol:)

Kinda but not really related, I swapped the rear springs too. They were only ~1/2" different height, with ~equal coil diameter. Seemed like just small OEM variation.

This is the best before photo I have with the cut springs:
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Is the stock ride height monster truck height? And if not, what could I have done wrong?
 
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