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The "Georgia Peach" Project - A 35-Year Wait For a Special 1968 122s Wagon

I thought it would be good to share with all of you what I am trying to accomplish with this supercharger installation:

1. My business is rebuilding antique racing and road-driven engines (pre-1930) and since I also run a very busy vintage car website, theoldmotor.com this project is going to only use (for now) period speed equipment and a Bosch centrifugal advance points style distributor (re-curved) and no electronics. That way the build it can be covered on the website as retro project, and a friend who writes for Road & Track is also interested in covering it as a period-like piece.

2. The blower output capacity is sized to work on a 1800cc engine and on a 2000cc motor it will be undersized and produce less horsepower and torque.

3. I had a Judson in the past (late-1970s) and installed it on a stock B18. It produced exceptional power, but could not handle even premium gas due to detonation, but would run great on racing gas. A standard carbureted B20 head was then installed (lowered the CR due to the smaller B18 bore) and it then preformed great on pump gas.

4. This car is going to be used like a shop truck in local traffic and some runs of up to 200-miles and has to be reliable.

5. It is first going to be installed on the completely rebuilt, original to the car, standard bore B18 with a new set Mahle cast pistons that are in it, and the "F" head that is on it now. This will give a good base line and with the lower compression ratio will handle the denotation issues and give a good base line to begin with.

After all of this is accomplished, a programable electronic distributor will likely be installed and the blower speed will be stepped up a bit.

I have very little knowledge of electronic ignition - what Volvo distributor (so it will look stock) and programable electronic system would you recommend that could be setup later to be work on this engine?
 
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I plan to run Microsquirt on my 142 later. I'll use a Pertronix trigger for a hall sensor and that will leave the distributor appearing mostly stock. That's about all I can add. :cool:
 
Can't wait to see this develop further, I love the plan for the build. Have you ever been out to the Mullin Automotive Museum here in CA? I volunteer there and we have many prewar French racing and road cars on display.
 
I plan to run Microsquirt on my 142 later. I'll use a Pertronix trigger for a hall sensor and that will leave the distributor appearing mostly stock. That's about all I can add. :cool:

Andrew, Thanks for the information - with this setup will you be able to adjust the timing curve to suit the engine?
 
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/27243447075/in/dateposted/" title="int1"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7441/27243447075_01af1328f6_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="int1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The photo above shows how well the original interior has survived with all the 1968-only features intact, and just needs a good clean up campaign. The 35-plus year old speakers in the door panels were put in for the old-fashioned eight-track tape player which still works fine.

The dash pad will be replaced w/a new one and the original butterfly steering wheel will be changed to something more sportier, perhaps a vintage Nardi wheel.

At some point in the mid-1970s a J-Type overdrive and shorter shifter with the OD switch in the knob were installed. This transmission and OD work fine but are noisy in the lower gears and needs new bearings and an overhaul soon. This will be the perfect time to install a pre-1970 P1800s shifter. I was able to find the parts for one of these shifters pictured below from two different sources. The assembly needs work but it will be installed it when the the transmission is being rebuilt.

I still need to find a P1800 OD switch that mounts on the steering column and allows you to turn the unit on or off without taking your right hand off of the wheel.

Not sure if the dealer installed air conditioning (when new) will remain in the car.

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Can't wait to see this develop further, I love the plan for the build. Have you ever been out to the Mullin Automotive Museum here in CA? I volunteer there and we have many prewar French racing and road cars on display.

No, I have not, but I have met Peter but it was quite some time ago - a friend of mine does restoration work for him. David Gooding is a friend of mine and when I can find the time to visit him in Santa Moncia we will go to the Mullin. If the timing is right maybe I can meet you.

I do some work for the Collier Museum (another world-class facility) and right now am finishing up a mechanical rebuild of a 1914 Simplex for them. Check it out here if you like antique cars and then be sure to look at the rest of the collection.
 
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If you use the early 1800 shifter you're going to need to relocate the hole in the tunnel since the early shifters are a little longer.

ShiftCovers.jpg


The turn signal switch has a momentary contact for flashing the hi beams that's not used on cars imported to the US. It can be used to switch the overdrive with a latching relay like the headlight relay from a 100/200 series car.

'75 240's used a three groove pulley (the one on the right).

B20ACPulleysRear.jpg
 
The turn signal switch has a momentary contact for flashing the hi beams that's not used on cars imported to the US. It can be used to switch the overdrive with a latching relay like the headlight relay from a 100/200 series car.

I used to have mine wired this way and it was really nice. Occasionally I'd accidentally disengage the OD while signaling on the highway so it takes some getting used to but it was far better than some dash switch or anything like that. I could never find an affordable factory switch for the column.
 
If you use the early 1800 shifter you're going to need to relocate the hole in the tunnel since the early shifters are a little longer.

Thanks for bringing that up so others will know - I installed one of these shifters in the wagon below that I redid 35-years ago. In that installation I put in a P1800s tunnel in the car and welded it in place and it worked out well, but it is a lot of work.

This time around I will form a sheet metal cover where the shifter comes thru the tunnel instead.

If you have long legs and need to move the seat way back, this longer shifter will work perfect, but they are starting to get hard to find.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/26867926671/in/dateposted/" title="1966 Volvo 122s"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/26867926671_59d2664044_b.jpg" width="800" height="449" alt="1966 Volvo 122s"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The turn signal switch has a momentary contact for flashing the hi beams that's not used on cars imported to the US. It can be used to switch the overdrive with a latching relay like the headlight relay from a 100/200 series car.

Thanks for reminding me of that feature - the last owner of this car set the switch up with a relay so he could flash the lights. I might leave that and put another switch on the right-hand side for the OD.

'75 240's used a three groove pulley (the one on the right).

I was thinking of using a 164 three groove pulley like this if the OD is the same as a B18 pulley. It apparently would need an adaptor to work in this application. Anyone have one of these that they could measure the outside diameter?

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/27265354445/in/dateposted/" title="164"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7662/27265354445_67bd8cb572_z.jpg" width="640" height="369" alt="164"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Have started researching the effects of supercharger boost on an engine and at what point detonation occurs without using a boost ignition retard device.

The chart shows the effective compression ratio of an engine, which combines the static compression ratio with the amount of supercharger boost. For most street applications with 93 octane pump gas the effective compression ratio needs to be kept below about 12.0:1

In my case if I go this route I need to shoot for 8.5:1 or lower as at six-seven psi of boost the Judson Supercharger puts out the effective compression ratio is 12.0:1 - 12.5:1

Even a B18B head with a CR Of 8.7:1 it will need to be lowered by making the combustion chamber larger.

Maybe if go this way, at the same time I will install larger valves and hard valve seats and port the head a bit.

Does anyone here know what size of larger valves will work well for a B18 head and where do the ports need to be changed keeping in mind this will be street driven?

Has anyone here put a supercharger or a turbo on a B18 w/a B/18 head? What were your experiences?
 
Those are B230 balancers and they have a bad habit of slipping.

B230Balancer1.jpg


B230Balancer2.jpg


164's use a hub and bolt on pulley system similar to B21/B23, except the 164 crank has an odd tri-lobed snout. Early B21's use a hub that will work on B20's, but they're hard to find. What's wrong with the 3 groove B20 pulley.

B30CrankHub.jpg
 
I used to have mine wired this way and it was really nice. Occasionally I'd accidentally disengage the OD while signaling on the highway so it takes some getting used to but it was far better than some dash switch or anything like that. I could never find an affordable factory switch for the column.

LOL - That could wake you up if you were really traveling.
 
Yes, the red one on the right is the '75 B20 pulley. It has 2 3/8" grooves and 1 ?" groove and is 5?" in diameter.
 
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/26637975663/in/dateposted/" title="1800"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7353/26637975663_a78c44a96e_z.jpg" width="640" height="411" alt="1800"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I have been thinking about wheels and tires for this car and once again want to use what was available in the the period. If had my choice and can find some, a set of original magnesium Minilites are at the top of the list. The 122 shares the same 4.5" x 5 bolt pattern as a Ford and some Chrysler products do.

Looking for a set of 15" X 6 or 6.5" wheels with the right back spacing.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/26678809094/in/dateposted/" title="Picture-XVS-P_carousel"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7147/26678809094_ba535a5581.jpg" width="254" height="390" alt="Picture-XVS-P_carousel"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Vintage style Michelin XAS tires are available and the 180HR15 above on a 6" wide rim would look more filled out than the photo above shows and might fill the bill.

The magnesium Minilites wheels below are coated to preserve them as they tarnish and corrode quickly. A slightly lighter color coating that looks like tarnished magnesium along with polished rim edges would be a great vintage look.

If any of you can lead me to where I can find a set of these or a reputable vintage wheel dealer who might would be highly appreciated.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/27146561702/in/dateposted/" title="mini"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7128/27146561702_e775b51d64_z.jpg" width="640" height="383" alt="mini"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

A second choice would a set of American Racing Equipment magnesium wheels as seen below.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/68431219@N02/27174378051/in/dateposted/" title="Americans"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7432/27174378051_d2123ba479.jpg" width="500" height="387" alt="Americans"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Panasport makes the Minilite style wheels in magnesium and aluminum.

http://www.panasport.com/index.html


Yes, Thanks, I found that out earlier. Minilite in the UK also makes them by special order.

http://minilite.co.uk/products.htm

I would like to find some original wheels (trying to do this project using period pieces) if I can within the time frame I have, but may end up purchasing new wheels if I have to.

Do you or anyone else know of any individuals or dealers the handle vintage racing wheels?
 
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