bugjam1999
Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2015
Hi all,
A couple of questions about making an adjustable Panard Rod ? please critique my approach.
1.) I?m thinking of cutting the axle end off the standard rod, welding on a threaded tube adjuster and adding a rosejoint (heimjoint in the USA) on the end. It?s currently standard length with polybushes both ends. My reasoning is that then I?m only adding one new welded joint to the bar, as well as providing some flexibility to the suspension ? I?m not convinced my rear suspension mounts were welded on entirely straight from the factory, a while ago I fitted a full set of polybushes throughout the car and the last bolt for the rear suspension was a struggle to line up during reassembly. The rear suspension wasn?t great like that, it was rattly, hard and jittery, and it?s now a lot better after swapping the axle to trailing arm bushes back to rubber which has provided some flexibility in that location ? which also made getting the last bolt in a lot easier. For this round I?ve got a set of adjustable torque rods with rosejoints on both ends and I want to do something with the panard bar ? I appreciate that I may pick up some noise with this swap, but I want to get the rear suspension working as it should. If the noise is really bad then I?ll cut up my existing torque rods and keep the body end polybush and the axle end rosejoint.
2.) The car is lowered 40mm ? about how much adjustment do I need and in which direction? I?m pretty sure the bar will need to get shorter, but I?m here so I might as well check. So I?m expecting to set up the cut/weld in adapter/rose joint so that wound out the bar will be standard length, with the ability to wind the rose joint in and make the bar shorter. But about how much shorter?
All comments appreciated.
Cheers
A couple of questions about making an adjustable Panard Rod ? please critique my approach.
1.) I?m thinking of cutting the axle end off the standard rod, welding on a threaded tube adjuster and adding a rosejoint (heimjoint in the USA) on the end. It?s currently standard length with polybushes both ends. My reasoning is that then I?m only adding one new welded joint to the bar, as well as providing some flexibility to the suspension ? I?m not convinced my rear suspension mounts were welded on entirely straight from the factory, a while ago I fitted a full set of polybushes throughout the car and the last bolt for the rear suspension was a struggle to line up during reassembly. The rear suspension wasn?t great like that, it was rattly, hard and jittery, and it?s now a lot better after swapping the axle to trailing arm bushes back to rubber which has provided some flexibility in that location ? which also made getting the last bolt in a lot easier. For this round I?ve got a set of adjustable torque rods with rosejoints on both ends and I want to do something with the panard bar ? I appreciate that I may pick up some noise with this swap, but I want to get the rear suspension working as it should. If the noise is really bad then I?ll cut up my existing torque rods and keep the body end polybush and the axle end rosejoint.
2.) The car is lowered 40mm ? about how much adjustment do I need and in which direction? I?m pretty sure the bar will need to get shorter, but I?m here so I might as well check. So I?m expecting to set up the cut/weld in adapter/rose joint so that wound out the bar will be standard length, with the ability to wind the rose joint in and make the bar shorter. But about how much shorter?
All comments appreciated.
Cheers