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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

So, I was supposed to go to a car show today...but decided it was time to install the turbo stuff instead. The manifold and turbo are now on, the blue injectors are installed, and the oil return line is mocked up. I have to hit up Princess Auto for a 1/4 JICM to 1/4 JICM fitting to join two 4AN (or 1/4 JIC) oil feed lines to make one long one, and I need an oil drain pan as well. Once the lines are done, then it's just the intake piping and I'm done. Hopefully that means it'll be running by tomorrow night.

VT9C8qrb_o.jpg


I'm using a TD05H 16G with an 8cm T3 interally-gated hotside., which should be plenty big enough for my desires. If the 5cyl 2.5s can get away with a TD04H, then my 2.9 (let's be honest, Volvo rounded up, lol) will work fine with a TD05H.
 
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The steering has actually improved somewhat, since I replaced the lines and banjo fittings with AN stuff. I'm sure it's all in my head, but I'll wait and see before installing the pressure reducing kit.

The desire to turbo the car just kinda struck me, and I have everything I need, so I figured why not. It's still stock compression, so supreme gas will be required, and I already have the car plumbed up for water meth (had it on the B21+T). The wastegate I used is ~5psi, IIRC, which is a good place to start for a bit more forward motivation that stays within limits. Should be fun :).
 
I read on TB recently that Volvo has a factory turbo exhaust mani for the 6 hole whiteblock. I wonder how it would fit a 2 series engine bay? Don't know if offered in North America..... might have been in the Lankku thread.
 
No pics, no vids, but the +T is done. I'm keeping it very sedate and have achieved my goal of 5 psi. It spikes to 7 when it shifts, but returns to 5 straight away. When I convert to speeduino I'll implement the boost control and see if I can smooth that out. There are a few things I've done that are not viewed as correct due to internet science, such as draining the turbo back into the pan via the drain plug (absolutely no smoke or anything), and running non-intercooled on a 10.7:1 engine. After the preliminary feeler test drive with the water/meth turned off, I was getting no audible detonation with 10* total timing at 5 psi...although I never gave it more than 50% throttle. I'm going to get the fueling where I want it first, then start slowly bringing the timing up. Once I find the threshold for detonation, I'll add in the water/meth :).

It's far too hot to be doing WOT pulls in ANY turbo car currently, so there's plenty of time to just cruise and tinker. My intake piping goes over the cylinder head, so I'll probably get some heat shielding in there at some point to keep heatsoak from getting too bad. I also still need some cooler plugs, so that's next up too.
 
Nah, I'll be fine without one. The corvette rad means I'd have a LOT of cutting to do, and I'm just not down with that. If I was running more boost, or drag racing constantly, sure...but I'm old and just want to hear the fun sounds :). If I ever complete the boost-friendly bottom end I'm building, I'll intercool it somehow.

I'm not gonna cry if I blow it up, and it'll be all my fault, but I'm not worried :).
 
Broke4speed said:
Nah, I'll be fine without one. The corvette rad means I'd have a LOT of cutting to do, and I'm just not down with that. If I was running more boost, or drag racing constantly, sure...but I'm old and just want to hear the fun sounds :). If I ever complete the boost-friendly bottom end I'm building, I'll intercool it somehow.

I'm not gonna cry if I blow it up, and it'll be all my fault, but I'm not worried :).
Click to expand...

In hindsight, I forgot/breezed over the fact you have water meth, which will help substantially.
 
I'll probably be adding a second nozzle at some point, in the turbo intake pipe. My IATs are actually close to the same as they were NA, because now the turbo draws cooler air from outside the engine bay, where my original filter was mounted behind the battery. They climb under boost, but return to normal during cruise. I'm shooting for 11:1 AFR currently, but I may lean that out to 11.5:1 so that the meth doesn't create an over-rich condition. At 5psi, I'm not really courting danger that badly, lol.
 
Even in my 740 the six does not leave any room for a front mount without cutting, and I really don't wanna cut that clean sheetmetal. I think a water to air would fit neatly where the airbox goes however.
 
The corvette rad in my car goes from frame rail to frame rail, so yeah...piping would be difficult without relocating the battery, cutting sheetmetal, etc. I'm pretty sure everything will be ok, as long as I'm careful :).
 
UM1Y6bmj_o.jpg


The end result of my +T. Even though it's non-intercooled and I'm draining the oil back through the oil pan drain plug, it hasn't exploded or done anything the internet says it will. It runs pretty sweet actually, and now that the fuel tuning is done, I can bump up the timing somewhat and engage the water/meth. I'm running a very conservative 10* in boost, which I don't like but it is keeping detonation away from my ears. My boost starts at 5psi and creeps to 10 at the limiter, which works for me. This turbo is a clusterufck of my own making, so until I can replace it, there will be creep.

IATs tend to be in the high 30C range, but will rise to 50-ish under extended boosting. I've tested the meth and the temps drop nicely with it on.
 
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Ok, good news all around.
1) Still no explosions.

2) added a bit more timing in boost and it definitely perked up. I'm still only running 12* above 3k, but the meth has proven to be excellent at reducing intake temps as well as suppressing detonation (although, it has not been loud enough for my ears to hear it, which is good. I could hear it ping when it was NA, and it's much quieter now).

3) Definitely glad I +T'd this thing, I recommend it :).

4) So far it's rarely more than 15*C above ambient (which is about 30*C now), and it cools quickly when rolling off boost. The filter is right behind the headlight so it's getting a lot of cooler air, which is way better than the underhood short-ram I had before.
 
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Broke4speed said:
The corvette rad in my car goes from frame rail to frame rail, so yeah...piping would be difficult without relocating the battery, cutting sheetmetal, etc. I'm pretty sure everything will be ok, as long as I'm careful :).
Click to expand...

C4 aluminum radiator? Doesn't appear you used the Vette fan system, did you consider or just low $ it?

Back in my SAAB C900 days, the guys that +T'd those engines were quite content with +5psi. The intercoolers were tiny by comparison to the ones we use on Volvos.
 
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C4 rad, but with plastic tanks. Rockauto's finest :). I used my existing 940 E-fan setup, since I had it, and it worked well. I'm running undiluted green coolant concentrate, so a larger rad was necessary to account for the lower thermal transfer ability of the waterless setup.

Honestly, it's so much more fun with even a little boost that I don't think I'm going to pursue big numbers. The transmission is having no issues, the water/meth injection is regulating temperatures nicely, and it brings a smile to my face :).
 
I just remembered I have a water/meth kit I bought used last year. I'm feeling inspired by this to +T my swap now. What size weld els did you use for your manifold?
 
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