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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

I think they were 1.5", but I'll check the leftovers and see.
I bumped up the timing to 14 at WOT and got 2-3 gear chirp. I'm DEFINITELY enjoying this :).
I really need some sort of knock detection, because as of today, with 38*C intake temps under boost (although with the meth on), I get no audible detonation at all @ 5-7ish psi. I used to get some at WOT with 32* timing and no turbo, so it is definitely detectable by ear when it's bad. I run 91 octane and a 70/30 water/meth ratio right now and there's nary a ping.
 
Lots of driving, no issues :).
Some observations, however:

- My tires are garbage, and due to all shifts being at full line pressure, any amount of water on the roads means that the 1-2 shift is...interesting. On sat I was on a Canadian Tire run for parts to fix a buddy's VW Touareg (ugh) and while turning left from a dead stop, I shifted from 1-2 at 3000 rpm (no boost, maybe 10% throttle) and suddenly felt like I was at a drift competition. I guess the harsh shift gets the G80 going.

- Turbo. Too. Small.
Not sure what I'm going to do about that. This isn't a car that deserves a new $1000 turbo, and I don't want to go full chinabay.

- MS2 (the whole MS line, really) isn't really doing it for me anymore. There are a few things I'd like to have that their firmware doesn't offer, like warmup enrichment that varies with CLT and load. Not interested in blowing $1000+ for management though, so it's not going anywhere.

- Might need to extend the tailpipe a bit. It's tucked under the bumper, about 8" from the edge, and I think some fumes are getting sucked back in through the open windows when I drive.
 
I really need some sort of knock detection, because as of today, with 38*C intake temps under boost (although with the meth on), I get no audible detonation at all @ 5-7ish psi. I used to get some at WOT with 32* timing and no turbo, so it is definitely detectable by ear when it's bad. I run 91 octane and a 70/30 water/meth ratio right now and there's nary a ping.

Certainly there has to be a factory knock sensor for the whiteblocks. Couldn't it be added to MS2?

Worst case, go MS3 Pro and you'll have full sequential fuel, should do anything you need.

How much boost do you plan to feed this engine (NA, correct)?
 
The B6304S in there currently still has both knock sensors bolted to the block. There are a couple ways of adding knock input to my MS2, but they all involve further mods to the board, and an interface box like KnocksenseMS. I've already done a bunch of mods to my MS2, and am starting to sour on the constant modding to enable features that should already be there. Anything will require money to be spent, and TBH, I'm a bit burned out on spending.

Yep, it's a bone stock B6304S with 10.7:1 compression. I'm currently running 5-8 psi, depending on how the boost creeps. It's plenty fun with that, although my turbo is way too small for much puff after 4500-ish.
 
Lots of driving, no issues :).
Some observations, however:

- My tires are garbage, and due to all shifts being at full line pressure, any amount of water on the roads means that the 1-2 shift is...interesting. On sat I was on a Canadian Tire run for parts to fix a buddy's VW Touareg (ugh) and while turning left from a dead stop, I shifted from 1-2 at 3000 rpm (no boost, maybe 10% throttle) and suddenly felt like I was at a drift competition. I guess the harsh shift gets the G80 going.

- Turbo. Too. Small.
Not sure what I'm going to do about that. This isn't a car that deserves a new $1000 turbo, and I don't want to go full chinabay.

- MS2 (the whole MS line, really) isn't really doing it for me anymore. There are a few things I'd like to have that their firmware doesn't offer, like warmup enrichment that varies with CLT and load. Not interested in blowing $1000+ for management though, so it's not going anywhere.

- Might need to extend the tailpipe a bit. It's tucked under the bumper, about 8" from the edge, and I think some fumes are getting sucked back in through the open windows when I drive.


https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=350430 :oogle:
 
A few minor things, such as a 16x16 ignition table, and constant/ongoing firmware development. I will be switching over at some point, mainly for fun :). Speeduino mainly offers what MS USED to be, an open-source, inexpensive platform for development.
 
Today was a very good day to inadvertently get cool parts for the car. I went to buy some wheels (15x8 25.4ET from a Jeep TJ), and while I was killing time, I went to an old school euro parts yard and found a decent turbo grille and later speaker covers. They've also got a couple of cars I could pull manual swap parts from...but it would be difficult. They pile the cars, so climbing is involved.

Their lineup of RWD Volvos was interesting: A couple 86-89 cars, an airbag one (couldn't tell year), a bertone coupe (really want the steering wheel, but I'd have to smash a window to get it :(), a 146 (manual with the B30 I think), a 780 Bertone coupe, an assortment of 7s and 9s (at least one 16v), and a bunch of half-flattened 240 carcasses of unknown year. The pricing at this yard is...painful, though. Everything the guy has is 'rare' or 'his last one', and he pulls prices out of his butt, so the cool stuff is going to be $$$. It really depends how badly you want what he's got, ultimately.

KhvQLMxI_o.jpg


df9pZCyL_o.jpg


...I kinda really want that 16v...
 
Aaaaand because I can't stand lugcentric BS, I made hubcentric inserts at work. I'm not a great machinist, but I can get things done with enough time. Now my chinabay spacers are hubcentric to the hub and to the wheel. Good thing my current boss is a car guy.

qXhwQs4Y_o.jpg
 
Jeep TJ 'Ravines', 15x8 w/ 25ET. 25mm adapter in the rear and 15mm adapter in the front. 205/55-15 BFGoodrich G-Force TAs (yeah they're old, but they were free). I trimmed 10mm out of the rear arch lip, but it's not low enough to even warrant it. They may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I dig the look :).

IF0gmyBA_o.jpg
 
PROJECT TIME! :D

As much as I'd love to covert to manual, the costs involved make it beyond my budget. Even a busted WC T5 goes for $400+ in this area, and then the other costs need to be factored in (adapter, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, driveshaft, shifter, pedal cluster, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc). After all that...I'd have a transmission with a possible limit of 300hp. The other option (CD009) is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay above what I'm willing to pay...so there's only one other option: stay automatic!

4suGuEcb_o.jpg


Enter a JDM 2JZ-GTE tiptronic box from an Aristo. These things always come attached to the JDM engines at the importer, and nobody wants them. I got this for less than $100 CAD, and it's MINT. It's the tiptronic box, which means nothing ultimately, but they tend to be very low KM boxes...and this one shows it. I've counted the input shaft splines, and I think the Volvo 960 torque converter will fit. That would make the swap a lot easier :).
 
Because I will eventually need them...a bunch of parts were acquired today. Pedal box/firewall plate/clutch cable, front driveshaft portion, transmission crossmember, and an M47 bellhousing to use with a T5 adapter. I plan on staying auto for now, but I know that I will definitely get bored and want to swap...and these were a good trade :).

RWIvgG45_o.jpg
 
Did a couple of things and have a couple of things in the works. Added the Borgeson fluid pressure control shims to my power steering pump to sort the twitchy nonsense. Worked well.

I'm going to drop some spare hubs off at the machine shop to get re-drilled to 5x114.3 because there's something slightly out-of-whack with my front adapter setup. The rears are great...but I didn't touch those, so clearly the variable is my machine work.

The best bit is that I've solved my boost creep and now I get a steady 5 psi no matter what. It's not a lot of added oomph from stock, but stable boost means I can properly map the fuel table, and that makes me happy :).
 
Spent 4 hours at the junkyard pulling a T6 out of an S80, stripping it down so it was just the bottom end with no alt, etc, so it would be charged as a cylinder block at the local scrappers. Turns out they still counted that as a full engine and wanted $300. F**k no. All that work for nothing :(. I left it behind because their 'block' definition means no pistons, crank, rods, or anything else. WTF. Who do they expect is going to go to a junkyard and spend a full day pulling an engine, then stripping it down to nothing. I'm kinda peeved.

Also, the machine shop charged stupid money to redrill the front hubs, so I guess it's just been one of those weeks.
 
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