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Our latest '70 145 Project - Need a few things. Any Ideas?

Such a great example of a 145, congrats on getting her running! I’m sure it feels good driving it around town.
 
Anyone have a tool kit for a 140?

I have a beautiful, never out of the bag jack and a tool kit vinyl pouch but no tools. I am sure some of you might know what should be included in a kit so I can start my search
 
Thinking about the way it sounds...

Bone stock motor, I know but is there any way to make it sound a little bit more "important"? My 122S friend says just remove the rear muffler and run the one in the middle. That's an easy fix but I was wondering what all of you more experienced Volvoisti think.

I don't want just noise but more of a rumble. Can B20s ever rumble? I like a nice tailpipe coming out the tail too.
 
You could try the Simons sport exhaust from VP Autoparts.

http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?page=article&artno=071K

It's not stainless is the only downside. Too bad you recently missed out on a forum member selling 3 complete NOS stainless 2" exhausts. He wanted $200. If I didn't already have the Simons kit in my stash, I would've bought one.

There also a guy selling NOS Abarth exhausts. They aren't cheap though & shipping from the UK is probably prohibitive.

https://www.abarth-exhausts.com/volvo/
 
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Another Newbie Question

I drove the project 145 today for the first time. There is a lot of play in the steering. At least I know the front suspension is tight so I assume I can adjust the steering box a little to tighten things up. We did put in a new steering idler arm bushing and everything else looks good.

I discovered that the vent windows are missing the latches. Can I get them new or another source?
 
I drove the project 145 today for the first time. There is a lot of play in the steering.

How much play?

The static play spec for the steering wheel is in the green book.


At least I know the front suspension is tight so I assume I can adjust the steering box a little to tighten things up. We did put in a new steering idler arm bushing and everything else looks good.

I discovered that the vent windows are missing the latches. Can I get them new or another source?

Careful with that or you'll trash the box in short order, see above.
 
How much play?

The static play spec for the steering wheel is in the green book.




Careful with that or you'll trash the box in short order, see above.

I guess you missed the part with me being new to vintage Volvos! What is "the green book"? I plan on loosening the nut and turning the screw about a 1/8th at a time until I see some improvement. Might that be what the green book says?

And Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 
I guess you missed the part with me being new to vintage Volvos! What is "the green book"? I plan on loosening the nut and turning the screw about a 1/8th at a time until I see some improvement. Might that be what the green book says?

And Happy Thanksgiving to all.

:hahano:

Volvo 1971 140 Green Book


s-l1600.jpg
 
Ignition up date advice...

I decided to move the 145 to the place where it will stay during the winter and where we will work on getting it sorted and built. It is a scant 4 miles from my home on country roads. Started out okay after a reluctant start at 26 degrees outside temp. Cranked a lot and finally stayed running.

About a mile into the journey it started to buck a little. A 1/2 mile later it almost didn't run at all. I stopped, checked the plug wires and distributor. All seemed okay. It started right up and ran great. I thought I fixed whatever bothered it but a 1/2 mile later it started to lose power and bucked and spit through the carbs. Stopped again, shut it off, restarted and made it the rest of the way okay without a sputter.

Before I picked it up at the shop, my mechanic suggested that although it was running fine (when I picked it up), I should consider either Petronix or a 123 Ignition. So my question to you folks with more experience, which one? A rebuilt distributor with Petronix or 123 Ignition? Will I need to swap out a newer coil too?

Before you ask, the carbs were rebuilt about 10 miles ago and it has a newly cleaned gas tank with new fuel filters and fresh fuel.
 
The 123 distributor while expensive is probably the better choice. An electronic conversion kit doesn't address the worn out advance mechanism that a 50 year old distributor is likely to have.
 
A rebuilt distributor with Petronix or 123 Ignition? Will I need to swap out a newer coil too?

The 123 distributor while expensive is probably the better choice. An electronic conversion kit doesn't address the worn out advance mechanism that a 50 year old distributor is likely to have.

FWIW, I used Pertronix in my daily driven 140s. I found them to be very reliable and never had an issue with them. These cars did not have any high-performance upgrades.

I did not find it necessary to change any coils and suspect the one in my '70 is original. But I've only owned it for the past 20 years so who knows what went on before that.
 
About a mile into the journey it started to buck a little. A 1/2 mile later it almost didn't run at all. I stopped, checked the plug wires and distributor. All seemed okay. It started right up and ran great. I thought I fixed whatever bothered it but a 1/2 mile later it started to lose power and bucked and spit through the carbs. Stopped again, shut it off, restarted and made it the rest of the way okay without a sputter.

I wonder if your fuel tank is not venting or are having a fuel pump issue. You only need about 2 psi of fuel pressure.
I would test the fuel pressure both idling and while driving and dying.
 
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