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Old 05-21-2019, 01:59 PM   #51
2manyturbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
Remove CTS's plug, then do an ohm test at LH harness....if infinity (Zero), leave CTS unplugged, reinsert LH harness, and start engine.

If the control unit receives a signal higher than 302F (150C) or lower than -40F (-40C), it will interpret the signal as a fault...the control unit will assume a substitute value corresponding to 32F (0C) on starting and 68F (20C) when the engine has started."
Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Not even on the Brickboard. Try unplugging your ECT sensor and see what happens. If the above statement was true the car would start and run fine with it disconnected. Those values would be "close enough" for the rest of the sensors to take over and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. What really happens doesn't support that statement at all.
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Old 05-21-2019, 03:34 PM   #52
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
IIRC, on Rex-I/Regina, when CTS is unplugged, it defaults to a warmed engine value. In cooler weather, its a pill to start a Regina EFI.

I have no idea if LH 1.0, LH 2.0, LH 2.4 act the same when CTS is unplugged. So if person making that statement was sincere, it might apply to one specific LH version.

I was attempting to find out if this statement was true.
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Old 05-21-2019, 03:58 PM   #53
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They all have good intentions on the Brickboard. The road to failure is paved with good intentions. Even with the later fuel injection systems that Volvo used that statement is not true. I know of someone that spent over $10,000 trying to have a long list of running issues corrected by Jim Fisher Volvo in Portland only to sell their V70XC to one of my friends for $2500. It turned out to be a $42 CTS. Their car at that time was worth $10,000 running correctly. My friend sold it a couple weeks later after spending one day figuring out what was really going on with it for $7500. Nice profit.
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:31 PM   #54
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So....do I test the injectors first? Or the CTS?
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#mclovethesenuts

-My car: White 1991 244, 330k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 200k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Virgos, tow hitch
-PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: EJ205, 5MT, 120k miles, Perrin TBE
Rebuilding EJ207 shortblock to swap in this summer.
-1997 Subaru Legacy Brighton: EJ22, 5MT, 236k miles
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Old 05-21-2019, 08:35 PM   #55
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CTS. Then injectors. Checking the CTS should only take 10 minutes. An injector spray pattern test will take quite a bit longer.
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Old 05-21-2019, 08:59 PM   #56
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So..CTS?

Yes, leave plug off for one test
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:01 PM   #57
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...good intentions on the Brickboard..
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...eratureSensors

English chaps attempt to get it right....that's why I mentioned different LH versions may have different strokes...
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:50 PM   #58
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Either my meter is inaccurate or something is way wrong. Still 9800ohm, can't seem to get any voltage from pin 13. I double checked I had my meter on the right setting by checking the battery. What's the resistance for the injectors? 15ohm?

Last edited by KeizerBrickGuy; 05-21-2019 at 09:57 PM..
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:23 AM   #59
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High- 10 to 16 ohms (Saturated Circuit Drivers/Injectors)
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Old 05-22-2019, 03:27 PM   #60
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I tested the injectors, they were all at 15.9ohm +/-0.1 ohm. So it seems that it might be a bad ECT. I'll order one as soon as I've got some cash to burn.
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Old 05-22-2019, 03:47 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...eratureSensors

English chaps attempt to get it right....that's why I mentioned different LH versions may have different strokes...
Yes. That is much better and based on observation vs. theory of what Volvo intended/wanted to design.
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:15 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
I'll order one as soon....
Disconnect plug from sensor...will your 1990 start up OK, and run OK?
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:00 PM   #63
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It starts up fine, doesn't blubber. Runs a bit odd, but nowhere near what it was before
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:37 AM   #64
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It would explain the lack of voltage with KOEO at pin 13. Once I saw the high resistance, I had a feeling that was the root of the cause. I will check injectors when I return from the desert.
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:55 PM   #65
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I will check injectors when I return from the desert.
Burning Man
August 25 - September 02, 2019
Black Rock City, NV


Well, have a good time.....
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:10 AM   #66
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Hey all sorry for the blackout, in back from the desert a couple weeks now I ordered and he CT while I was there so that way it would be waiting for me when I got home sure enough that was definitely it. Now I just need to address the exhaust leak. And the phantom overdrive button issue.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:05 PM   #67
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Try plugging your old computer back in to see if it acts up. You may have just had some fretting or corossion on the terminals.
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