home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-22-2019, 12:05 PM   #101
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Driveshaft is back from the shop, shortened with the proper flange and new U joints. Aside from the hammering I did earlier, the only thing I had to do to get it to fit was chop some extra threads off of a bolt protruding through the trans tunnel. After that, I was able to set the height of my trans mount and weld it up. Finally, the entire drivetrain of the car is properly bolted to the body of the car. This bolt belongs to the passenger seat belt anchor, so be careful what you do with it. I could have done a better job measuring the length for the driveshaft and it ended up coming out a little short. It will be ok for now, though.















I also was able to modify the Volvo gas pedal to work with the Mark VIII throttle cable. I opened up the bent metal with a vice and various round things, then drilled a hole with a slit to work with the Mark VIII throttle cable. Then I reinforced it a little with some extra steel. The lengths actually work out perfectly! Not bad for such a low effort and low cost solution.



Then I realized something that I can't believe I didn't think of before. The Volvo shifter works opposite of what the 4R70W switch needs. So I thought hmm, I wonder if the Mark VIII shifter will fit? Turns out that after some trimming of the assembly and cutting of the Volvo body, yes, it will fit. I'm not sure exactly how at this time, but I'll figure something out. I'm actually quite ok with this because the Mark VIII shifter is cable driven and will hook directly up to the 4R70W with no trouble at all, so no need to make a linkage system. It's also a very nice shifter in general and has a great feel to it.







I also cut the front to make room for the Mark VIII radiator. Mounts to come next.



The next thing on my mind is exhaust. It's going to be quite tight and I plan on using catalytic converters. I was hoping I could have them coming right off the headers, but there simply won't be enough room. I'll have to have them sit under the car parallel to the ground. I've never fabricated an exhaust system before so this should be interesting. The plan is to use as much as I can off of the Mach 1 assembly I showed in one of the first posts and buy the rest. Upstream O2 only on each bank, catalytic converter on each bank, through to the H pipe, and then true dual heading all the way to the back through magnaflow mufflers. Maybe just a dual in dual out if I decide to plumb it that way. It's all up in the air at this point.



__________________
Aidan

4.6 32V 240 Wagon

Last edited by aidanahunter; 08-11-2019 at 08:43 PM..
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2019, 01:09 PM   #102
Duder
Comes with a free Frogurt
 
Duder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Default

Nice progress man. You'll be on the road pretty soon from the looks of things!
Duder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 05:50 PM   #103
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Nice progress man. You'll be on the road pretty soon from the looks of things!
Thanks!

I'm wondering if anyone has some insight regarding rear differentials. I believe my wagon has a 1030 rear end with a 3.73 gear ratio. Given the Mark VIII used a 3.07 ratio diff (3.27 for the LSC models), and the Volvo uses smaller diameter wheel assemblies than the Mark VIII, I'm afraid I'll be turning 2500rpm or more on the highway at 70mph. I'd like to get better fuel economy than that. I know the 240 was sold with a 3.31 axle ratio in some models. How do I go about getting this in my car? Do I need to buy an entire rear axle assembly or are these parts that I can change through the diff cover? Is there anything available that's a lower ratio than 3.31?
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 06:02 PM   #104
TestPoint
Board Member
 
TestPoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay
Default

The 3.31 is the lowest I am aware of. With that much HP available you really need at least that. My 240 HP 302 spins the right rear tire if I am not careful on dry pavement and it has the Diesel 3.31 axle. Remember, you have smaller tires now.

Changing the entire rear end is the simplest solution. That will give you an opportunity to change all the 30 year old bushings back there.

What did you do about torque rods? I had to create adjustable ones to get all the vibration out of the drive line.
__________________


1982 Volvo 245 with a Ford 302 V8

Ford V8 Conversion Manual -
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Bertone Restoration - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=256460
TestPoint is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 08:14 PM   #105
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aidanahunter View Post
.... I'm afraid I'll be turning 2500rpm or more on the highway at 70mph..... Is there anything available that's a lower ratio than 3.31?
Run the calcs....they'll help you decide what you want to do. You'll need to know the OD gear ratio in the tranny. If you switch to the Ford 8.8" -- a 'higher' 3.27 and 3.08 is available. Your 2500 estimate is pretty close. My brother had a 940 with 5.0L/4r70w with 3.73's - it ran about 2500 at 70.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php
__________________
'82 242 6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 CrossTrek

Last edited by M.H. Yount; 05-29-2019 at 09:13 PM..
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 10:56 PM   #106
Texas240
Prius Owner
 
Texas240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aidanahunter View Post
I'm afraid I'll be turning 2500rpm or more on the highway at 70mph. I'd like to get better fuel economy than that.
Really? Thats pretty damn good and you're putting in a v8 engine in a wagon. get use to low mileage
__________________
93 245 LS Engine Swap Project
Texas240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 06:53 AM   #107
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

My last around town tank was 20.1 — consistently 19-20 mpg around Charlotte. Mid-high twenties on the highway. About the same mileage as the stock 2.1 got. All stock LS3/stock ecu. 3.55’s, 2100 rpm @ 70
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 11:01 AM   #108
Texas240
Prius Owner
 
Texas240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
My last around town tank was 20.1 — consistently 19-20 mpg around Charlotte. Mid-high twenties on the highway. About the same mileage as the stock 2.1 got. All stock LS3/stock ecu. 3.55’s, 2100 rpm @ 70
Im getting 12 city lm7 and maybe 18-20 highway. Im loving my 2700 rpm at 80. At 80 with my getrag I might of been 3100-3200
Texas240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 11:48 AM   #109
Duder
Comes with a free Frogurt
 
Duder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Default

My old-school '94 Roadmaster gets 24-25mpg highway. That's a big dumb old Gen2 5.7L V8 that should be worse than Gen3/Gen4 5.3L guys are getting. It's a 4L60E auto with 2.56 gears. The body is streamlined nicely, yes, but has a lot of frontal area compared to a smaller 240, and it's longer too. So total drag may be similar. My point is a 4.6L naturally aspirated automatic 245 should be able to get mid-20s or higher with the right gearing.

If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."
Duder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 11:58 AM   #110
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post

If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."
AND -- while the longer rear gear will aid the highway mileage with a big, lazy torque monster, the shorter gear will help in town mileage a bit. So, it's a bit of give and take. Even with the long OD's some trannies have, rear gearing in the (using gears available for my rearend) 3.08-3.55 range should offer a decent compromise with reasonably efficient V8 power. Suspect if Aidan keeps the revs below 2500 at 70, 25+ mpg on the highway is within reach. That was the case with my brother's 940 -- 25-26 mpg at a steady 70 mph/2500 rpm.

'Course, many of the V8 Volvo lot are running a lot more cam, often looser converters and turbos -- with predictable mileage results.

Last edited by M.H. Yount; 05-30-2019 at 12:11 PM..
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 02:13 PM   #111
Lankku
Board Member
 
Lankku's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Finland
Default

3.15 gear is the lowest and rarest of the stock ones. You can buy lower aftermarket ratios but I've heard they have some whine and you can't adjust it away. I'd try 3.31 and see how it goes.

Swapped the 4.6l 2V and TR-3650, which I had in 242 and V90, into a -68 LTD Country Squire with 2.75 gears. Even that basic engine has so much low end torque that I don't need first gear if I want to take off smoothly on a level ground. And it weighs 2 tons/4400lbs without the driver Still accelerates pretty nicely.
__________________
444 -55,
242 DL -80 (was 4.6l)sold, 245 -88 "B6284T" sold, 245 -92 B6294,
245 -90 "B6284T"
Lankku is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 02:15 PM   #112
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post
If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."
Right. Thanks guys.

The Mark VIII with the 3.27, like the one I had from 2008 to 2017, turns just above 2k rpm at 70 mph while the 3.07, like my donor, turns just under 2k at 70. I was able to get high 20s highway with my Mark VIII. If I'm being optimistic, this may be possible in the 245 with the correct gearing because yes, the Volvo is less aerodynamic, but the mark VIII is much heavier.

The question I was asking was around how, from a technical point of view, you change the diff. Sounds like Tom has answered that, so I will causally look around for a 3.31 axle since that's the easiest option for now. Till then, I'll run the 3.73 and see how it goes.
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 02:52 PM   #113
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

Around town weight impacts mileage more, not so much on the highway. Except for that trip where you’re moving from Houston to Denver.
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 03:59 PM   #114
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Around town weight impacts mileage more, not so much on the highway. Except for that trip where you’re moving from Houston to Denver.
Funny you say that. I moved my in-laws to Denver area last weekend lol. From Michigan, though.
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 04:49 PM   #115
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

....uphill, one-way...”
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 05:54 PM   #116
strykjärn
Determinator
 
strykjärn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ...roaming
Default

I really dig this swap. Love Ford stuff as long as I don't have to work on it.

But can someone explain to me why there are so many 300hp + swaps in seemingly nothing but vaggons? ...and coupes.

4DOORS!!!!
__________________
ferarri red 244 ... Mediocre plans for an epic daily. Poor man's manual swap in process. A squall line of further shenanigans shall ensue.
strykjärn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 09:18 AM   #117
yugo4life
Board Member
 
yugo4life's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Peoria, IL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by strykjärn View Post
I really dig this swap. Love Ford stuff as long as I don't have to work on it.

But can someone explain to me why there are so many 300hp + swaps in seemingly nothing but vaggons? ...and coupes.

4DOORS!!!!
People love the 2 doors for the rarity and sportiness and the wagons for the extra quirkiness and practicality. I chose the 4 door as the best compromise between the two.

Been loving this thread, by the way, as I am planning a DOHC modular based engine as well and love watching someone else overcome the obstacles before I get to them.
__________________
Lord Volvomort - 1984 244 GL - 175k and stock as a rock at the moment
yugo4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 12:41 PM   #118
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yugo4life View Post
People love the 2 doors for the rarity and sportiness and the wagons for the extra quirkiness and practicality. I chose the 4 door as the best compromise between the two.

Been loving this thread, by the way, as I am planning a DOHC modular based engine as well and love watching someone else overcome the obstacles before I get to them.
That's a good way of summing it up. For me, I grew up really liking the wagons. My uncle and older cousin each had one through the 90s.

I'm glad you're enjoying the journey and I'm happy to blaze these trails for you and others. We need more Ford modular swaps in this world in general. I've been quite busy in the last month and I'm hoping to make some good consistent progress in the coming weeks.
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 11:52 AM   #119
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

I made an adapter plate for the hydroboost using some scrap 3/4" aluminum and some help from the tool room at work. The pushrod on the hydroboost needs to be shortened still before it all fits together.

aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2019, 12:37 AM   #120
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

Not too much to report, but I did put the front back on for the first time in a long time for radiator fit testing. I also found out the Mark VIII air box will not clear the headlight! So, big K&N cone it is.

I scored a 100' roll of 2awg wire last week so I'm going to be using that to relocate the battery. More on that later - parts are on the way.

For now, I'm just really psyched to see this picture. This is the most "real" it's looked in a long time. I will note that nothing in this picture is truly mounted except for the engine. The cruise control module will live where the battery used to.



And these fresh headlight lenses look awesome!

aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2019, 11:32 AM   #121
yugo4life
Board Member
 
yugo4life's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Peoria, IL
Default

That looks right at home there! I drove a '99 Cobra for a while and loved the 4V for its smooth power and sound at higher rpms. I didn't realize till now that your car is a wagon. Power of a Cobra, practicality of the wagon FTW!
yugo4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2019, 11:12 PM   #122
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default

The engine is back out of the car. I'm wrapping up all the little odds and ends of the swap and spending way too much money at summit racing for fittings and hoses.



I did get the Mark VIII shifter mounted in place. I used the original bolt holes in the front, and in the back I created a custom hold-down bracket out of the old FPDM bracket from the Mark VIII. The result is fantastic. I got the carpet out to see how it looks and I was quite impressed. I'm considering putting an accordion shift boot over it for irony.



Also got around to painting all of the welded stuff. Here's the oil pan. I still have the rusty Mark VIII oil pan laying around, so I did a fluid capacity test with each one. When each pan had 6 quarts of water in it, the levels differed by about 1/8". Since this doesn't seem to be too big of a difference, I'm not going to run an oil cooler and I"ll just see how the dipstick behaves with 5.5 quarts to start.



And here's current state. Mayhem. But pretty soon it won't be.

aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2019, 11:41 PM   #123
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

I remember it well - death by a thousand details. You’re working through it!
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 04:08 AM   #124
Vol242vo
Keep it clean...
 
Vol242vo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Default

Looking good!
__________________
Derek
1980 242
16" BBS RSs - 25/25 Sway Bars - Bilstein HDs - SuperPro Poly - MSD - R Sport Wheel - 'Skinny' Bumpers'

-Project Thread-
Vol242vo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2019, 08:50 AM   #125
aidanahunter
Board Member
 
aidanahunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Columbia, MO
Default How To Install Mustang Hydroboost

I haven't talked about this much since post 70 because I've been wanting to write a long post describing everything I did to make it work. See post 70 for pictures of the original vacuum booster next to the hydroboost.

Note: This applies to 1999-2004 hydroboost units.

First thing to do is drill holes in the firewall. Easy.

Next thing to do is look at how the hydroboost sits in the firewall and realize that it's tilted at way too high of an angle for this to work.



There is a very large nut on the back of the unit held in by a clip. This nut attaches the firewall mounting bracket to the unit. Remove the clip and remove the nut with a punch. Then, find yourself a massive hydraulic press and start flattening the SOB. This will fix the angle at which the booster will exit the firewall.

Before:



After:



You also need to create an adapter bracket. Turns out the center to center bolt distance of the Volvo and Mustang master cylinders is equal. They also use similar bolt sizes, so all four holes can be drilled the same size. I will edit this post with a screen capture of the print I created to machine the part. I started it myself with some 3/4" scrap aluminum, drilled the small holes with a drill press, and had one of the tool room guys at work circle mill the 1 and 5/8" hole.

Edit: here's a screen capture of the sketch in the 3D model. This contains the dimensions I actually found on the parts, mainly the hole to hole distance and the 70 degree offset of the Hydroboost.



And here's how I drew it for machining. I ended up taking the concave radii out since I originally planned to have this entirely CNC machined. Rectangle is more practical when you're using a drop saw and drill press.



Now that the bracket is created, the next thing you do is realize you should have used thicker aluminum stock because the push rod is too long. Luckily, it's pretty easy to shorten it and grind it down.



Removing the pedal box seemed daunting at first but it wasn't that bad. Steering column needs to come out for this. Pedal box is held in by four nuts and two bolts. The four nuts actually held the original master cylinder in place, so they're already out. The two bolts are up top near the wiper blade linkage. A ratcheting wrench here is key.

Once that is out, remove the pedal from the box. It's time to mate the hydroboost eyelet to the pedal.



The approach I took was fairly simple. The eyelet on the hydroboost is 5/8" ID. The hole in the brake pedal, and the OD of the original pin is 5/16". I went to the steel store and bought 1" of 5/8" rod. Then I drilled a 5/16" hole in the center of it, cut off 0.25", and put it inside of the hydroboost eyelet.





Next, I carefully cut a slit in the brake pedal, about 1.5" overall. It turns out that the inside wall to wall distance of the pedal is the same as the thickness of the hydroboost eyelet!...0.25".





That tiny piece of metal I created was wrapped in electrical tape to keep it in the eyelet. I took some extra metal and tacked it to one side of the pedal to take up the slack of the original pin. Put it all in the car, bolted everything down the hardware I had and boom...working brakes. In these pictures you will see missing bolts and nuts...that's because I either didn't have them or was too lazy to install them for testing. This setup did indeed stop the front wheels from turning when the pedal was pushed. And don't mind the angle of the brake fluid. The car is on jack stands at the 2nd to highest setting.







However, there's one thing left to do and that's address the four nuts that hold the pedal box in. What I did was bought some short bolts to work with the same nuts, had my wife hold them in place with a wench while I tightened, and tack welded each one so everything comes apart easier if that ever needs to happen again. Looking back, the tacking probably wasn't completely necessary since the box will probably never come out again.


Last edited by aidanahunter; 06-19-2019 at 02:15 PM..
aidanahunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:47 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.