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Old 09-10-2013, 11:47 PM   #126
justlie
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Where did you get your torque rods from? My next thing I need to do is build a solid bushing of sorts for the front bushing on the subframe.
Got them from Speedway Motors. Joints are solid. Had the noise on the very first drive around the block, checked it right after and couldn't find anything. Now that I drove it around town a bit I'll check again.

I'm swapping exhaust manifolds right now so I can check it while its in the garage.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:54 PM   #127
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Awesome, same stuff I got it sounds, I think your thread is where I got the pictures of them after I found out about speedway.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:59 PM   #128
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Mike that'll probably make a huge difference. The 242 used to ovalize then break poly filled 240 torque rods with ease. Huge difference going to what you have
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:56 AM   #129
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Justlie: here is an idea, what size hole for the heim ends did you use? Did you use any kind of bushing or spacer? I went with 5/8 and then used some split bushing/sleeve from McMaster car that was m16-m14 adapter. I put it in a vise and opened it up and filed off a little of one side so it could be pressed into the 5/8 hole in the joint. This kept the m14 bolt very tight in the joints. Also all of my spacers on the side are 1/2" id and then drilled out to m14 so everything is really tight.

Doug: might just be my mind wanting it to feel better but the car really does feel a bit more tight. Nice and smooth. I still need to drop the konis down in the rear and set them stiffer.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:11 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
Justlie: here is an idea, what size hole for the heim ends did you use? Did you use any kind of bushing or spacer? I went with 5/8 and then used some split bushing/sleeve from McMaster car that was m16-m14 adapter. I put it in a vise and opened it up and filed off a little of one side so it could be pressed into the 5/8 hole in the joint. This kept the m14 bolt very tight in the joints. Also all of my spacers on the side are 1/2" id and then drilled out to m14 so everything is really tight.

Doug: might just be my mind wanting it to feel better but the car really does feel a bit more tight. Nice and smooth. I still need to drop the konis down in the rear and set them stiffer.
Its not in your head. My old 242 went through torque rods as well.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #131
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Doug: might just be my mind wanting it to feel better but the car really does feel a bit more tight. Nice and smooth. I still need to drop the konis down in the rear and set them stiffer.

On-Off throttle transitions will be noticeable better. Course you're using an auto so it'll soften that transition some. Still, well done my friend.
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:05 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
Justlie: here is an idea, what size hole for the heim ends did you use? Did you use any kind of bushing or spacer? I went with 5/8 and then used some split bushing/sleeve from McMaster car that was m16-m14 adapter. I put it in a vise and opened it up and filed off a little of one side so it could be pressed into the 5/8 hole in the joint. This kept the m14 bolt very tight in the joints. Also all of my spacers on the side are 1/2" id and then drilled out to m14 so everything is really tight.

Doug: might just be my mind wanting it to feel better but the car really does feel a bit more tight. Nice and smooth. I still need to drop the konis down in the rear and set them stiffer.
5/8" to 9/16" sleeve in it. The bolt fit very snug in it, but yes that could be my issue.
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Old 09-20-2013, 03:10 PM   #133
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Started on the rear mounted battery












As I get more work done I shall post up more pictures, right now I am taking a bit of break to go ship some chips.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:52 PM   #134
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I see the disconnect, but where's the circuit breaker?
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:26 AM   #135
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What breaker? the other two posts are getting hooked up tomorrow. top will run to the alternator and the bottom to the battery per specs.


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Old 09-21-2013, 01:59 PM   #136
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It is always a good idea to run a circuit breaker, or at least, a fuse, in case the main positive cable becomes shorted. The high amperage can easily start a fire!

Circuit breakers are nice because they're resettable and might allow you to limp a car home.

There is no rule of thumb that I know of when it comes to sizing, but I would imagine something in the 150-200 amp range should suffice. Best rule of thumb is to run the smallest one you can without tripping it during cranking. That will provide the best protection.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:07 PM   #137
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So a fuse between the battery and the cutoff switch? That shall be next on my list.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #138
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That's what I do: a fuse on the positive cable right after the battery. I think I started with a 150 and I had to drag the car on the starter motor once and it blew the fuse, so I replaced it with a 200.

My positive line runs under the car. It's tucked up pretty tight but it's still good insurance.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:23 AM   #139
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Rear mounting point, I now have a #4 wire going from here to the block at the factory mounting point.



Battery somewhat in place



Ghetto mounting block up front, I am planning on cleaning up the wiring a bit, for now I am just getting the car up and running, either way everything works as it should for now.



Final trunk mounting of the switch, as per my other thread, bottom wire goes to the factory alternator exciter wire on the chassis, the top small wire goes to the exciter location on the alternator. Car shuts off just fine with the switch.



So far I am happy, I have zero voltage drop across all of the wiring, Same voltage at the battery as the engine bay. Tomorrow I will drive the car around and check again to see how it is with heat.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:46 PM   #140
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Install looks great!

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Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
So a fuse between the battery and the cutoff switch? That shall be next on my list.
I like circuit breakers better, but if you use a fuse, keep a spare in the car just in case.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:50 PM   #141
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Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP902.../dp/B003NYHCQ0

Or

http://www.amazon.com/200-HIGH-POWER.../dp/B003IZ2JFS
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:11 PM   #142
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I'd definitely want a breaker/fuse with the + wires so close to sheet metal like that. If you get rear ended and those lugs get grounded, that's going to be bad news.
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:03 PM   #143
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Same thing I was saying to myself yesterday, Breaker it is, anyone have one that they have used and recommend?
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:49 PM   #144
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Bussman has some bad ass breakers I use on the big diesels at work all the time
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:58 AM   #145
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if it's 4ga wire you should be looking at ~125amps. http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:37 PM   #146
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Hello thelostartof Olaf?

I agree with towermynt.
And: Bad news if you stay at traffic light and a joky guy switch of your car and walk away with the red knob, maybe he cant't rob him because it's screwed.
Bad joke in traffic if someone switch of

Better place: In dashbord and you can reach him by hand, with a string outside for emergency use.

regards, Kay
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:26 PM   #147
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Better place: In dashbord and you can reach him by hand, with a string outside for emergency use.
NHRA has funny rules about it being back there.

In a road racing series I race in, the switch had to be on the outside of the car, but it didn't have to be within reach of the driver. One team put it on the fender, some car hit it and cut the power, car was dead and stopped on the track. Another car ran into the back of them.

Now we have a rule that it must be within reach of the driver, so the driver can turn the power back on as needed. It also has to be accessible by safety workers, so some teams put a cable to the outside, others mount it near the drivers side window so it can be reached easily by someone from the outside.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:35 PM   #148
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I doubt anyone is walking away with that knob unless they pack a Phillips' screwdriver everywhere.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by stylngle2003 View Post
if it's 4ga wire you should be looking at ~125amps. http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
The ground from battery to block is #4, the power is 0/1.
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:52 AM   #150
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No huge updates, car is running good and is ready for MS as soon as I order the new set of wires and get off my ass and start running the few wires needed.

Went for a drive last weekend with some other local car guys and re-realized how bad my car handles so I am trying to get over the cost and get around to building those coilovers I want. I have the front konis on the shelf and ready to install as soon as I find time to do it.
A few quick pictures from the drive




Also I threw together a camera mount that should work out better than the suction cup mount I used to use


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