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Old 06-12-2019, 04:05 PM   #626
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Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
Oh yeah, there was definitely a moment of "ohhh, that's why 15mm is his min.". I bought the 16.5's for the rear, will throw them on the front at some point and see how it shapes up but probably don't want them out that far.

Worth noting that the epsilons are actually a 67.1mm center bore, so even in the rears I had to buy a wafer thin spigot ring to retain hub centering. Hopefully I can get the rear arms built fairly soon. I'm pretty burnt out on the car after the big push in April/May, so need to take a few weeks off to enjoy it.
If the wheels are 67.1 CB then it would be possible to have a hubcentric spacer @ 10mm to clear. Its probably something i could get knocked out at some point if you ever have the burning desire to have something like that made.

When you go 65 to 65 it doesn't work but the 65 to 67 gives you barely enough material
You would have a 1mm thick lip for centering
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:22 PM   #627
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AS an added note on shortening the trailing arms: I have the same 3/4" heim on the front end, and Volvo bushings in the rear. I had superpros for a while but they were noisy and terrible and it would always lift the inner wheel on tighter turns, even with the TrueTrac. Highly recommend the rubber bushing in the back. Ben's rear spherical bearing will not work with the front spherical end, for evident reasons.

Also, be aware that shortening the trailing arms may cause clearance issues with the middle u-joint, as your car is fairly low. Consider lobbing off 3/4-1" from the rear portion of your driveshaft or you may have a u-joint housing that likes to kiss the captive nut that secures the seat belt buckle bracket. Another option is to convert to late model belts, but that on its own right is also a fiddly pain in the donkey.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:03 PM   #628
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Thanks for the heads up on the “look for” on the shortened arms. Honestly hadn’t thought about spherical at both ends I was kinda just buying stuff hah.

Ben - I’ll send a note over about spacers if I ever get the itch, thanks for the offer. Motorsport tech was going to be really expensive and slow when I was in a rush.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:33 PM   #629
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This was my big splurge, I bought a Borg Warner efr 7670. I plan on keeping the external wastegate so got the divided t4 flange, there is no ewg t3 housing option (that I could find anywhere).



Initial test fit with a junk 531 head while the good head was at the shop. I had Full Race ceramic coat the exhaust housing, and requested silver ceramic on the compressor cover. When I got it I realized they had accidentally ceramic coated the CHRA instead of the cover. I called them up and they were really good about it and ended up refunding me the cost I paid for the cover coating, so I ended up with a coated CHRA for free which was a nice bonus.





Compared to the HX35 the efr is 8lbs lighter overall.

I also planned on keeping my blow off valve/IC piping so I bought an sxe style compressor cover (this is the cover they forgot to coat). The first cover they sent was the Friday afternoon special, it had some sloppy clean up work and the 1/8" pipe thread for the wastegate reference wasn't even close to on center. I went back to Full Race again and they were, again, really helpful and their borg rep ended up sending me another cover at no cost. This one was much more acceptable for the cost.



Since I had to buy a t4 housing, and I was way to tapped out to build a new header, I had to get over my hang ups and buy an adapter plate. Now that I've put it on and run it I think it works fine, not ideal but fully functional. I do have a devil on my shoulder whispering about a new t4 header with dual wastegates and a cnc collector and I'm weak to temptations. (the devil's name is Tate).

I ended up porting it out a bit for best fit.





the efr is up and forward a bit compared to the Holset, and also needs a different flange. Making the new downpipe was relatively straightforward, I added a band on the rise of the 90 for the height and just added a new leg on the run with the efr flange. I did all of that in the car and tacked it into place, then put it all on the bench to do the wastegate tube. The bellows had cracked last year.



We did the fitting and tacking then brought it to a friend of ours to weld. Everything looked great when it came back.



Then I put it on and started banging my head against the side of the car, it wasn't even close. The guy is a good welder, and nothing moves that much from heat, so I can only figure that I neglected to fully tighten the v-band clamp where the exhaust meets the down pipe, so everything pulled back when that was all fully clamped down.



I didn't want to waste the flange, and was low on pipe, so I made a small section at the rear to push it forward. I was pretty embarrassed to go back to the welder and ask him to do it again, glad it was at $0/hr!



Next I had to think about fluid plumbing. Obviously I needed to add water cooling which I was not set up for. I thought about routing and originally planned to feed from the coolant bottle line and return to the water pump, as stock. I was looking at tapping into the overflow hose and welding a hard pipe with a fitting to the pump inlet. I didn't like the plumbing on the overflow side, and it also offered no pressure for water flow. On the water pump side I decided I didn't want to make it a one off part. So I changed my mind and decided to feed from the NPT petcock fitting on the side of the block near #4 for positive flow. For the return I put the fitting onto the heater core return pipe, so the pump could be stock.

return pipe tacked up with an extension and a -6 male fitting.





finish welded (this one fit after welding..)



the feed line is a -6 fitting in the block with a 90* hose end (obscured), it follows the heater pipe then crosses over with the oil cooler lines and runs up the frame rail. Between that hose and the routing of my new oil drain line the filter is trapped, I'll have to pull 3 hoses to replace it. I change the oil once a year and they are all an fittings so it's not a huge deal, but I'll probably end up doing a remote filter now.



here's a shot of the water return line line in place, and the oil feed line run. All of the hose and ends are -6 aeroquip startlite, it's considerably nicer than the Summit stuff.





all plumbed up and ready to party





downpipe installed finally. I was glad to gain an air gap on my spark plug wires, I was constantly rotating the roached boots before.



At this point it was just a matter of reassembly. The whole thing was such a big push because I really wanted to get it out for the annual eEuroparts car show at Lime Rock on June 8th. I was able to get the engine back together the Tuesday before for first start. After 7 months and a lot of changes I was pretty anxious about it. We primed the oil system gave it fuel and it fired right up. Ran it fast for a minute or two to run things in then it fell into a nice idle. The new valve train sounds much better than the old one (lash is at .016" btw).



Everything proved out fine. I did get a huge oil leak at the flange of the stock pcv box which I could not get to seal, so I threw on a Yoshi breather plate that I had around and made a new hose for the catch can. I got the rest of the car together, did some quick tuning on Friday and made the 1hr drive out to Lime Rock on Saturday. It ran great on the drive down, and sat and collected pollen in the car show all day. I ended up winning best modified Volvo (basically beating a bunch of fwd cars), it's fun to get to take the car to a winner circle.



I took a bunch of pictures when I got home from the show:





needs rear wheel spacers, bro!





I'm trying to decide where I want to put the inlet to the air filter, looking at places to put a duct up in the front then run brake cooling hose to the airbox.



random note, I replaced all of the cheap t-bolt hose clamps in the car with stainless ABA band clamps and I like them much better.



I'm really happy with the interior, loving the change.





when I was bored I also put in a Stack pro control fuel pressure gauge in my open lower gauge slot. I think I'm going to slowly replace all of the other gauges with the same, I like the classic look of the stock VDO's but I don't find them very easy to read; that oil temp gauge especially.



driving impressions: I've only run ~18psi up to this point since I haven't gotten a chance to drive and tune much. Seat of the pants is confirmed by MAP lines that the efr actually builds positive pressure a little after the holset (huge hot side), but responds much quicker and hits peak boost ~150rpm earlier. In real driving it outperforms the holset in every way. It's making more power at lower boost, and transient response on the twisty roads is completely different. It feels so quick at this boost it's going to tear at 25psi. I also think I'm seeing real benefits from the head work. The engine is pulling more vacuum, feels smoother all around, loves to rev. I need to make a few changes to really make the most of these upgrades, but I'm already happy with the results. Really fun to drive and I can't stop digging into it in 2nd and 3rd every chance I get, smile every time!

The steering rack and pump need to be rebuilt. I'll take care of that, do the trailing arms, and otherwise hope to just drive and enjoy it until the snow flies again.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:28 PM   #630
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I know I've got a couple of whiteblock builds going but if I ever built another 242, I'd want to build it just like yours. 8v's are still special to me.

Just fantastic.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:06 AM   #631
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Impressive work, wish I could have a 242 like this.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:52 AM   #632
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Your car is the perfect example of how to spend all your money on an 8v redblock, and no one judges you for it. Beautiful.
This is the golden standard for 8v builds in the states.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:28 AM   #633
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Yes, this is yet another incredible 242 that I continue to drool over for inspiration with my beige 242. I have a thing for clean, and this embodies it!
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:47 PM   #634
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Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
I know I've got a couple of whiteblock builds going but if I ever built another 242, I'd want to build it just like yours. 8v's are still special to me.

Just fantastic.
thanks! I do have a soft spot for the 8valve, it definitely sounds good

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Your car is the perfect example of how to spend all your money on an 8v redblock, and no one judges you for it. Beautiful.
This is the golden standard for 8v builds in the states.
don't worry I judge myself plenty haha.

Really appreciate the feedback, glad you guys are digging it. Trust me there's times where I really question why I'm doing this! But then when the car is back together and running right it makes sense again. I do also sweat the small stuff, so when you guys pick up on the details or things being cleanly laid out it's a big boost.
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:22 PM   #635
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I went through some old pictures of the car from when I first pulled it out of the barn and did some before and after comparison for Instagram, figured I'd post it here too.










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Old 06-17-2019, 07:05 AM   #636
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Hard to believe it's the same car. Look at the underside!
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:22 PM   #637
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Incredible work. Inspiring for sure!
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:18 PM   #638
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This car is the best. Whenever I regret putting a redblock in my car, I come here and am given hope.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:37 PM   #639
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Hard to believe it's the same car. Look at the underside!
Thanks, I kinda wish I did a better job showing the car in original form in the first posts here but I've got the pics still. Not many people see the underside of the car, so I'm happy to show it off here!

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Incredible work. Inspiring for sure!
thanks man!

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This car is the best. Whenever I regret putting a redblock in my car, I come here and am given hope.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:01 PM   #640
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Then I put it on and started banging my head against the side of the car, it wasn't even close. The guy is a good welder, and nothing moves that much from heat, so I can only figure that I neglected to fully tighten the v-band clamp where the exhaust meets the down pipe, so everything pulled back when that was all fully clamped down.
I wouldn't worry too much about that, its stainless right? From past experience, SS moves a ton when you weld it.. With production based fixtures you can help combat it but for a one off... a small amount of heat down the pipe can easily cause a gap of that size at the connection. I could be ignorant on this but even a highly skilled welder can have that kind of distortion if its just being done freehand based off of some tacks.

Thats just part of buidling a one off setup.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:05 PM   #641
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At least you didn't have it ceramic coated before you realized it didn't fit...
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:18 PM   #642
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Thats just part of buidling a one off setup.
one of many treats! If nothing else I'm learning. Yes tube is .065" 304 stainless.

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At least you didn't have it ceramic coated before you realized it didn't fit...

that is of some comfort, thanks
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Old 08-25-2019, 09:00 PM   #643
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happy to report that the car has been running great all summer. Besides a little oil leak at the valve cover and the cam seal it hasn't missed a beat. I ran around at ~18psi for a while, now running ~22psi. It definitely feels a lot stronger, goes pretty good for a little 8v and sounds the part too.



I've mostly just been driving it and making little adjustments here and there. I dropped the rear as low as it will go on 10" springs and tried on the 16.5mm BNE wheel spacers. I made as much room as I could but it was too tight and rubbed at the rear of the arch on both sides under any compression. I'll need to shorten the trailing arms to pull the wheel forward to run them. I like the look though.







I also added an STS torque mount. I asked Scott if he could make it with a vent port for crankcase ventilation and he obliged. It's tapped for a -8an o-ring fitting, and they did a nice job machining for the o-ring seal. It adds a bit of a rhythmic vibration into the interior at idle, but it's mostly unnoticeable driving around.







This was a pretty quick job this afternoon I've been meaning to do for a while. The quarter panel side trim on the car was really busted up, bent and missing most/all of the rubber bead. I had a small stash of replacement trim and new clips I finally put to ouse. I had two QP pieces in very good used condition, a trunk piece in good used condition, and one NOS door piece. I ended up using the trunk lid piece for one door by cutting it to length and swapping over the little end cap.

To get the trim off I took the two 8mm nuts on the back of the QP corners inside the trunk. Then at the front of the piece near the door I slid a sheet rock knife under the trim, smacked it with a hammer and sheared off the first plastic clip. With the two ends free you can pull from the rear/push from the front and slide the trim down the clips; then pop the trim off the clips one by one as you go. Punch the center out of the old clips and pry them out of the body with a plastic cats paw trim tool.



new clips are OE Volvo, I soaked them in a cup of water for a bit and they popped right into the body, then tap the pins in with a hammer.

To install the trim I lined it up, then kind of lipped the top edge of the trim over the clip and smacked it inwards/downwards with the palm of my hand to pop it onto the clip. Repeated that times many clips and bruised the crap out of my palm.





it looks way better, much cleaner and more finished than the broken up pieces.



DL trim is kind of the theme of my month. I've put a bunch of time in working with Ian (HiPerf) and a dealership in Germany to ship over some of the last NOS 242dl trim pieces I can find anywhere in the world. If everything works out I should have a complete NOS set of trim to install when the car gets painted
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:43 AM   #644
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This sounds incredible. When my car grows up I want it to sound just like that. Well done on that trim work, makes a big difference.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:56 AM   #645
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Your beige 242 and hacksters beige 242 makes my beige 242 feel inadequate
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:18 PM   #646
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God I miss having an nasty 8v. Sounds so good!
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:45 PM   #647
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Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
This sounds incredible. When my car grows up I want it to sound just like that. Well done on that trim work, makes a big difference.
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God I miss having an nasty 8v. Sounds so good!
Agreed and agreed, thanks guys. I definitely don't think it "sounds like a tractor"! Very happy with the side trim, shouldn't have put it off for so long.

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Your beige 242 and hacksters beige 242 makes my beige 242 feel inadequate
All beige cars are beautiful!!


well this week has been a stressor. Driving home from work Monday night I was going up a long steady grade around 4k rpm and like 5psi of boost and suddenly felt a big stumble and it immediately started running like garbage. Ahhh crap it's running on 3 cylinders! Limped it off the road and just had a pit in my stomach right away. It was just like what happened when I spit the lash cap out and hung the valve open. But that happened bouncing off the limiter, how could I bounce a valve at 4k rpm?! Either way it was for sure only running on 3 cylinders, and it looked like #4 was the dud.

Got it back to the garage and started trying to diagnose. I have one major serviceability issue which is that I CANNOT pull the #4 plug without removing the downpipe, there is just no way around it. So I had to go through the dance to get the DP off to even start the basics. First thing was just check compression, which is healthy and even across all 4 cylinders. Phew, this came as a big relief because it meant I didn't hang the valve again.

Pulled plugs and they looked fine. I ohm'ed out all of the plug wires and they checked out fine. The wires themselves are hidden behind a couple layers of thermal protection, but the boots were only lightly toasted and not burned through. I took the #4 wire and #4 plug and checked spark visually with the output test mode in tuner studio, confirmed spark with that pair through all 4 coils. Ok, plugs seem good, wires seem good, coils firing..

Checked timing, hadn't moved. Pulled the fuel rail out and checked injectors, they were firing properly (and one popped out of the rail under pressure and made a fun mess) and flowing. At this point I'm starting to scratch my head. After everything I went through last year I still couldn't get the valve train off my mind.. so off comes the valve cover. I didn't wipe a cam lobe off, valve lash checked out OK... now I'm relieved because the head doesn't have to come off the car and the "why did I invest this much money in a 530" setup has not failed me after 6 months.

But what happened? I was going back and forth with my Dad and Tate all day yesterday and we all seemed to think it pretty much had to be a spark issue. All of the components checked out individually but I decided to just test it out practically - reassemble the car and move the #4 plug and wire to #2 and see what happened. So it all goes back together, start the car and.. it's running fine. I let it warm up and it was idling along on all 4. Went for a drive and did 5 minutes getting it up to temp and all seemed good under cruise. Thinking at this point it was a loose connection or some weird anomaly. Roll into some boost and it immediately falls apart under positive pressure. Damn, but it's only under boost now.

back to the garage. Since I'm only dropping under boost I can't confirm what cylinder is effected now, but I moved the wire/plug as the only real change so I decided I'll just swap out all 4 wires and plugs. Take the stupid downpipe off AGAIN. Pull plugs and wires, and now I have to go through the routine of setting up new plug wires. Because of my turbo location the wires are right next to the downpipe, so every wire gets a DEI titanium heat sleeve, then the heat sleeve is spiral wrapped in DEI reflective gold foil, and I safety wire the boot in place.

Soo I check out the number 4 wire. The boot/heat tape is lightly toasted but not bad, I've had them burned completely through before and never had a problem. Well I go to pull the thing through the boot and out comes...



I think I found the problem

I've never been so relieved to see a burnt in half plug wire. First of all I think these wires suck. I had been using some old recycled truck wires for like three years which saw just as much heat. This one failed after maybe 500 miles? Some GM/AC Delco "hi performance" wire. Second it was just an interesting diagnosis. Really the plug wire should have been the first suspect, and it was! But because the things were so mummified in heat wrap I trusted the ohm meter and my visual spark test. I would not have guessed that I happened to wiggle the wire just right so that it made a connection again, but not enough of one to provide a strong enough spark for boost.

For now I wrapped each plug wire itself in heat tape, put boots on, heat taped the boots, and safety wired it all to the coil bracket so I have an air gap to the DP now. Long term I need to a) change the downpipe path b) make a heat shield.

OH WAIT THERE'S MORE.
As I'm crawling around the car I see a bolt missing from the center section of my turbo. Look closer and oh.muh.gawd. 3 of the 5 bolts/mounting clamps that hold the center section into the hotside had backed out. FYI these were torqued to spec upon assembly, but did not use loc-tite. I was realistically a few drives away from having my brand new turbo liberate itself from the housing and bounce around the engine compartment like some kind of battle-bot. I'm now counting the stupid plug wire as a blessing because it forced me to catch a much bigger issue. No credit to Borg Warner for the, imo, stupid design. Never would have happened with a flange and a v-band clamp.

This was extra fun because when things got loose the turbo re-clocked itself in such a way that the drain line was forced up against the header, SO THAT GOT COOKED TOO. Re-making drain hoses is becoming a routine maintenance item now. I will definitely be reviving my project to make a custom hard line for the turbo drain.



Anyways, that's how a burnt plug wire cost me 24hrs of massive stress and a vacation day at work.

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Old 08-28-2019, 01:59 PM   #648
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Soooo, does that mean the car is not shaken down yet?

Good catch on those items. Perhaps it would be beneficial to route the #4 plug behind the head. Looks bad but at least it would be less likely to get hot. As for the turbine bolts, that's how Garretts are set up. Weird point of failure though.
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Old 08-28-2019, 02:05 PM   #649
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Was there actual contact with a red-hot exhaust or was that just from non-contact radiant heat? If non-contact, how much distance was there between the pipe and wire?
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Old 08-28-2019, 02:07 PM   #650
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Soooo, does that mean the car is not shaken down yet?

Good catch on those items. Perhaps it would be beneficial to route the #4 plug behind the head. Looks bad but at least it would be less likely to get hot. As for the turbine bolts, that's how Garretts are set up. Weird point of failure though.
remember when I made a post patting myself on the back for how great the car ran, then the next day it broke?

I'll have to stare at things a bit and open myself up to the idea of longer runs like that. I think the best fix would be to get away from the L-shaped downpipe and make something a little snaky that follows the strut tower. Basically just get things away from head as much as possible.

The turbo bolts are a pain for access on the car too, I now have a "Special Turbo Bolt Wrench" I had to make to get the one on the bottom. I have a replacement bolt/clamp on the way now, but my next step is going to be pulling in some drilled-head hardware and learning how to do a nice lock wire job.

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Originally Posted by dbarton View Post
Was there actual contact with a red-hot exhaust or was that just from non-contact radiant heat? If non-contact, how much distance was there between the pipe and wire?
Dave
yes and no. The plug wire itself never touched exhaust metal. The protective boot and heat shielding did. So the plug wire was (material thickness) distance from the pipe, but had a conductive path.

I think the safety wire to the coil bracket job is actually a quick hack that will help quite a bit. I now have ~.5" air gap on all four wires.
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
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