home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-12-2019, 04:05 PM   #626
blkaplan
50 shades of beige
 
blkaplan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
Oh yeah, there was definitely a moment of "ohhh, that's why 15mm is his min.". I bought the 16.5's for the rear, will throw them on the front at some point and see how it shapes up but probably don't want them out that far.

Worth noting that the epsilons are actually a 67.1mm center bore, so even in the rears I had to buy a wafer thin spigot ring to retain hub centering. Hopefully I can get the rear arms built fairly soon. I'm pretty burnt out on the car after the big push in April/May, so need to take a few weeks off to enjoy it.
If the wheels are 67.1 CB then it would be possible to have a hubcentric spacer @ 10mm to clear. Its probably something i could get knocked out at some point if you ever have the burning desire to have something like that made.

When you go 65 to 65 it doesn't work but the 65 to 67 gives you barely enough material
You would have a 1mm thick lip for centering
__________________
www.BEIGEPOWER.com
Kaplhenke Racing Facebook
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkKratoz View Post
The only safe bet is Ben.©
blkaplan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2019, 04:22 PM   #627
Harlard
80/20 speed parts club
 
Harlard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
Default

AS an added note on shortening the trailing arms: I have the same 3/4" heim on the front end, and Volvo bushings in the rear. I had superpros for a while but they were noisy and terrible and it would always lift the inner wheel on tighter turns, even with the TrueTrac. Highly recommend the rubber bushing in the back. Ben's rear spherical bearing will not work with the front spherical end, for evident reasons.

Also, be aware that shortening the trailing arms may cause clearance issues with the middle u-joint, as your car is fairly low. Consider lobbing off 3/4-1" from the rear portion of your driveshaft or you may have a u-joint housing that likes to kiss the captive nut that secures the seat belt buckle bracket. Another option is to convert to late model belts, but that on its own right is also a fiddly pain in the donkey.
__________________


Herr Harlard am Erstens

1979 242 DL

Quote:
Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
Harlard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2019, 07:03 PM   #628
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

Thanks for the heads up on the “look for” on the shortened arms. Honestly hadn’t thought about spherical at both ends I was kinda just buying stuff hah.

Ben - I’ll send a note over about spacers if I ever get the itch, thanks for the offer. Motorsport tech was going to be really expensive and slow when I was in a rush.
__________________
'79 242
943 pickup
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2019, 09:33 PM   #629
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

This was my big splurge, I bought a Borg Warner efr 7670. I plan on keeping the external wastegate so got the divided t4 flange, there is no ewg t3 housing option (that I could find anywhere).



Initial test fit with a junk 531 head while the good head was at the shop. I had Full Race ceramic coat the exhaust housing, and requested silver ceramic on the compressor cover. When I got it I realized they had accidentally ceramic coated the CHRA instead of the cover. I called them up and they were really good about it and ended up refunding me the cost I paid for the cover coating, so I ended up with a coated CHRA for free which was a nice bonus.





Compared to the HX35 the efr is 8lbs lighter overall.

I also planned on keeping my blow off valve/IC piping so I bought an sxe style compressor cover (this is the cover they forgot to coat). The first cover they sent was the Friday afternoon special, it had some sloppy clean up work and the 1/8" pipe thread for the wastegate reference wasn't even close to on center. I went back to Full Race again and they were, again, really helpful and their borg rep ended up sending me another cover at no cost. This one was much more acceptable for the cost.



Since I had to buy a t4 housing, and I was way to tapped out to build a new header, I had to get over my hang ups and buy an adapter plate. Now that I've put it on and run it I think it works fine, not ideal but fully functional. I do have a devil on my shoulder whispering about a new t4 header with dual wastegates and a cnc collector and I'm weak to temptations. (the devil's name is Tate).

I ended up porting it out a bit for best fit.





the efr is up and forward a bit compared to the Holset, and also needs a different flange. Making the new downpipe was relatively straightforward, I added a band on the rise of the 90 for the height and just added a new leg on the run with the efr flange. I did all of that in the car and tacked it into place, then put it all on the bench to do the wastegate tube. The bellows had cracked last year.



We did the fitting and tacking then brought it to a friend of ours to weld. Everything looked great when it came back.



Then I put it on and started banging my head against the side of the car, it wasn't even close. The guy is a good welder, and nothing moves that much from heat, so I can only figure that I neglected to fully tighten the v-band clamp where the exhaust meets the down pipe, so everything pulled back when that was all fully clamped down.



I didn't want to waste the flange, and was low on pipe, so I made a small section at the rear to push it forward. I was pretty embarrassed to go back to the welder and ask him to do it again, glad it was at $0/hr!



Next I had to think about fluid plumbing. Obviously I needed to add water cooling which I was not set up for. I thought about routing and originally planned to feed from the coolant bottle line and return to the water pump, as stock. I was looking at tapping into the overflow hose and welding a hard pipe with a fitting to the pump inlet. I didn't like the plumbing on the overflow side, and it also offered no pressure for water flow. On the water pump side I decided I didn't want to make it a one off part. So I changed my mind and decided to feed from the NPT petcock fitting on the side of the block near #4 for positive flow. For the return I put the fitting onto the heater core return pipe, so the pump could be stock.

return pipe tacked up with an extension and a -6 male fitting.





finish welded (this one fit after welding..)



the feed line is a -6 fitting in the block with a 90* hose end (obscured), it follows the heater pipe then crosses over with the oil cooler lines and runs up the frame rail. Between that hose and the routing of my new oil drain line the filter is trapped, I'll have to pull 3 hoses to replace it. I change the oil once a year and they are all an fittings so it's not a huge deal, but I'll probably end up doing a remote filter now.



here's a shot of the water return line line in place, and the oil feed line run. All of the hose and ends are -6 aeroquip startlite, it's considerably nicer than the Summit stuff.





all plumbed up and ready to party





downpipe installed finally. I was glad to gain an air gap on my spark plug wires, I was constantly rotating the roached boots before.



At this point it was just a matter of reassembly. The whole thing was such a big push because I really wanted to get it out for the annual eEuroparts car show at Lime Rock on June 8th. I was able to get the engine back together the Tuesday before for first start. After 7 months and a lot of changes I was pretty anxious about it. We primed the oil system gave it fuel and it fired right up. Ran it fast for a minute or two to run things in then it fell into a nice idle. The new valve train sounds much better than the old one (lash is at .016" btw).



Everything proved out fine. I did get a huge oil leak at the flange of the stock pcv box which I could not get to seal, so I threw on a Yoshi breather plate that I had around and made a new hose for the catch can. I got the rest of the car together, did some quick tuning on Friday and made the 1hr drive out to Lime Rock on Saturday. It ran great on the drive down, and sat and collected pollen in the car show all day. I ended up winning best modified Volvo (basically beating a bunch of fwd cars), it's fun to get to take the car to a winner circle.



I took a bunch of pictures when I got home from the show:





needs rear wheel spacers, bro!





I'm trying to decide where I want to put the inlet to the air filter, looking at places to put a duct up in the front then run brake cooling hose to the airbox.



random note, I replaced all of the cheap t-bolt hose clamps in the car with stainless ABA band clamps and I like them much better.



I'm really happy with the interior, loving the change.





when I was bored I also put in a Stack pro control fuel pressure gauge in my open lower gauge slot. I think I'm going to slowly replace all of the other gauges with the same, I like the classic look of the stock VDO's but I don't find them very easy to read; that oil temp gauge especially.



driving impressions: I've only run ~18psi up to this point since I haven't gotten a chance to drive and tune much. Seat of the pants is confirmed by MAP lines that the efr actually builds positive pressure a little after the holset (huge hot side), but responds much quicker and hits peak boost ~150rpm earlier. In real driving it outperforms the holset in every way. It's making more power at lower boost, and transient response on the twisty roads is completely different. It feels so quick at this boost it's going to tear at 25psi. I also think I'm seeing real benefits from the head work. The engine is pulling more vacuum, feels smoother all around, loves to rev. I need to make a few changes to really make the most of these upgrades, but I'm already happy with the results. Really fun to drive and I can't stop digging into it in 2nd and 3rd every chance I get, smile every time!

The steering rack and pump need to be rebuilt. I'll take care of that, do the trailing arms, and otherwise hope to just drive and enjoy it until the snow flies again.
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2019, 10:28 PM   #630
Hank Scorpio
Chubfest 2009 Survivor
 
Hank Scorpio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The neighborhood with the ******* guitar player.
Default

I know I've got a couple of whiteblock builds going but if I ever built another 242, I'd want to build it just like yours. 8v's are still special to me.

Just fantastic.
__________________
Hank Scorpio is from the Simpsons. You can call me Doug ;)
Will trade guitars/guitar parts for go fast goodies or stuff I need. Just PM.
www.kauerguitars.com the second best way to upset neighbors and alienate people.
History: Car 1 (242) | Car 2 (t5r) | Car 3 (255)
Hank Scorpio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 12:06 AM   #631
JanP
Board Member
 
JanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Default

Impressive work, wish I could have a 242 like this.
__________________
-92 240 Wagon
JanP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 06:52 AM   #632
slow240
Home Schooled
 
slow240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Suffolk VA
Default

Your car is the perfect example of how to spend all your money on an 8v redblock, and no one judges you for it. Beautiful.
This is the golden standard for 8v builds in the states.
slow240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 10:28 AM   #633
Vol242vo
Board Member
 
Vol242vo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Default

Yes, this is yet another incredible 242 that I continue to drool over for inspiration with my beige 242. I have a thing for clean, and this embodies it!
__________________


Derek - 1980 242
Vol242vo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 12:47 PM   #634
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
I know I've got a couple of whiteblock builds going but if I ever built another 242, I'd want to build it just like yours. 8v's are still special to me.

Just fantastic.
thanks! I do have a soft spot for the 8valve, it definitely sounds good

Quote:
Originally Posted by slow240 View Post
Your car is the perfect example of how to spend all your money on an 8v redblock, and no one judges you for it. Beautiful.
This is the golden standard for 8v builds in the states.
don't worry I judge myself plenty haha.

Really appreciate the feedback, glad you guys are digging it. Trust me there's times where I really question why I'm doing this! But then when the car is back together and running right it makes sense again. I do also sweat the small stuff, so when you guys pick up on the details or things being cleanly laid out it's a big boost.
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2019, 05:22 PM   #635
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

I went through some old pictures of the car from when I first pulled it out of the barn and did some before and after comparison for Instagram, figured I'd post it here too.










Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 07:05 AM   #636
Ginger Ninja
Board Member
 
Ginger Ninja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Australia
Default

Hard to believe it's the same car. Look at the underside!
__________________
'88 245
'88 245 turbo
Ginger Ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 01:22 PM   #637
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
 
+Kardboard+'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Default

Incredible work. Inspiring for sure!
__________________
'88 245DL Uncle Sven|'95 945T Darth Haul|'82 242GLT B23E Lumpy the Angry Viking (sold)|'77 244DL, red/sold.|'90 744T C3P-LOL, gold/sold

mtd240: I suspect "the wives" have a super-secret forum to discuss whether or not they will let us buy Volvo parts.
DavidSamuels: Not a website, a panel discussion/reality show. Real Housewives of Gothenburg.

-Feedback-
+Kardboard+ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 03:18 PM   #638
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Default

This car is the best. Whenever I regret putting a redblock in my car, I come here and am given hope.
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 03:37 PM   #639
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Ninja View Post
Hard to believe it's the same car. Look at the underside!
Thanks, I kinda wish I did a better job showing the car in original form in the first posts here but I've got the pics still. Not many people see the underside of the car, so I'm happy to show it off here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by +Kardboard+ View Post
Incredible work. Inspiring for sure!
thanks man!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
This car is the best. Whenever I regret putting a redblock in my car, I come here and am given hope.
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 07:01 PM   #640
blkaplan
50 shades of beige
 
blkaplan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post


Then I put it on and started banging my head against the side of the car, it wasn't even close. The guy is a good welder, and nothing moves that much from heat, so I can only figure that I neglected to fully tighten the v-band clamp where the exhaust meets the down pipe, so everything pulled back when that was all fully clamped down.
I wouldn't worry too much about that, its stainless right? From past experience, SS moves a ton when you weld it.. With production based fixtures you can help combat it but for a one off... a small amount of heat down the pipe can easily cause a gap of that size at the connection. I could be ignorant on this but even a highly skilled welder can have that kind of distortion if its just being done freehand based off of some tacks.

Thats just part of buidling a one off setup.
blkaplan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 07:05 PM   #641
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Default

At least you didn't have it ceramic coated before you realized it didn't fit...
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 08:18 PM   #642
Stiggy Pop
Board Member
 
Stiggy Pop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Thats just part of buidling a one off setup.
one of many treats! If nothing else I'm learning. Yes tube is .065" 304 stainless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
At least you didn't have it ceramic coated before you realized it didn't fit...

that is of some comfort, thanks
Stiggy Pop is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:54 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.