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Old 10-31-2018, 11:33 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by v8volvoman1 View Post
keep us posted with the motor mounts you use. I am working on the same swap but with a manual trans.
Awesome! Start a thread! I'd love to see your progress and I'm sure I'm not the only one. What car is your engine out of?

Motor mounts, I think I'm just wing it and gonna go custom working with what the Mark VIII came with for mounts. This is a budget build, after all. I bought steel the other day and plan on coming up with some preliminary designs as I figure out the steering shaft interference issues.


In other news, parts came back from TIG welding today. They look good and have been leak tested. I'll paint the pan when I'm done test fitting because I know I'm going to scratch it during that process.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:36 PM   #52
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Did some more test fitting tonight. I've more or less narrowed the engine fitment down to three issues. Steering shaft, passenger exhaust manifold, and sway bar.

Sway bar is easy. Just add spacers and longer bolts. The new sump fits well. Almost a little too well. Maybe I could have spared some metal but I didn't want it to not fit. However, I have the engine sitting pretty far back to the firewall. It might need to come forward a little to fit heater core hoses.








The passenger exhaust manifold seems to want to dump right into the body of the car. I can modify this with either the cutting wheel and some fresh metal, or bash it in with a hammer. Thoughts?



I loosened the steering column which allowed it to move around in the firewall hole a little more. This time around I was surprised at how much more room I had. I think that chopping the block in the previously mentioned area will help me quite a bit there and potentially solve the issue. However, I still don't have the transmission attached. That will probably change things.



I took some pics regarding the mounts, too. Right now I have the Mark VIII mounts attached with their U brackets that attach to the Mark VIII K-member. Here's some pics of how they align with the 240 crossmember:









It's almost as if I could cut four tabs, drill a hole at the top of each one, weld all four to the crossmember, and stick the long bolts off of the Mark VIII through and call it good. The only other thing I want to explore is the Crown Vic mounts as discussed earlier. I think I'm going to buy some at the auto parts store and see how they fit. I can just return them if they're not worth pursuing. I'll post an update on that soon. I know Chris really wants to know about these!
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Old 11-02-2018, 11:03 AM   #53
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Nice progress. Your Mark VIII mounts seem to align well!

I'd try hard not to modify or bash the "frame rails" for exhaust clearance. You may lose some stiffness if you start pre-buckling those structural members. For an NA engine it may be interesting to start with a set of cheap ebay shorty headers, then cut and re-weld as necessary to relocate the flange to a nice spot.

Note to self: I should swap in the same style PS rack that you have. Mine in the '84 is the type with external hard lines and they will foul on the front of the oil pan, even after notching the rear for clearance. Good to see you have no issues with that rack.
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:48 PM   #54
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I'd try hard not to modify or bash the "frame rails" for exhaust clearance. You may lose some stiffness if you start pre-buckling those structural members.

Note to self: I should swap in the same style PS rack that you have. Mine in the '84 is the type with external hard lines and they will foul on the front of the oil pan, even after notching the rear for clearance. Good to see you have no issues with that rack.
Couldn't agree more on the front frame rail clearance -- IF it's necessary after experimenting with other manifolds/shorties - then cut/weld; even cutting/welding is going to alter the way that rail is designed to crumple. I wouldn't hammer there. Sheet metal in/around the tunnel -- not so critical.

FWIW - I worked hard to mount my V8 as low as possible. Lowered the rack a bit and the external hyd lines were still the high point. I found that with some patience, a little block of wood and a hammer I was able to massage the lines into a position where the crossmember was the high point...so no more line interference. A before and after below....



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Old 11-02-2018, 09:20 PM   #55
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Awesome! Start a thread! I'd love to see your progress and I'm sure I'm not the only one. What car is your engine out of?

Motor mounts, I think I'm just wing it and gonna go custom working with what the Mark VIII came with for mounts. This is a budget build, after all. I bought steel the other day and plan on coming up with some preliminary designs as I figure out the steering shaft interference issues.


In other news, parts came back from TIG welding today. They look good and have been leak tested. I'll paint the pan when I'm done test fitting because I know I'm going to scratch it during that process.
I was able to score a totalled 1997 mustang cobra with a manual transmission. I've been having trouble situating the engine in the engine compartment. As the fellow did in the last post, I have notched the crossmember and notched the oil pan to gain clearance.

I have just completed a garage project of mine and will be tidying up some loose ends with sheet rock and heat so that it's more conducive to work in during the winter months. Perhaps i'll start a thread then.
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:27 PM   #56
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I was able to score a totalled 1997 mustang cobra with a manual transmission. I've been having trouble situating the engine in the engine compartment. As the fellow did in the last post, I have notched the crossmember and notched the oil pan to gain clearance.

I have just completed a garage project of mine and will be tidying up some loose ends with sheet rock and heat so that it's more conducive to work in during the winter months. Perhaps i'll start a thread then.
Nice - great Mustang. Sounds like we are going to have very similar issues with fitment. You will probably be happy you notched both the crossmember and oil pan because I confirmed today that I must drop my crossmember if I want to get both the engine and transmission in together. Not a huge deal, but still annoying. Also, I am jealous of your garage...

Did some more fitment stuff today. Cut my driver side head in the previously mentioned area. It definitely helped with steering shaft interference. Then I put the engine in with the transmission attached for the 2nd time. It was much less oily this time. Pro tip: Don't replace the dipstick tube o-ring on a 4R70W unless you've drained the fluid from the pan. Same goes for tilting it with the back end pointing down. Otherwise you're gonna have a bad time.





Transmission tunnel interference became more apparent this time around. Tomorrow I'm going to spend some time making some "modifications" to the tunnel.

More thoughts/thinking out loud on engine mounts: Mark VIII mounts are looking better and better the more I look at them. U bracket or not, they stick down pretty close to the crossmember. I looked into purchasing crown vic mounts, but at auto parts stores, they run about $80 each and none of the stores in my area that I looked at stock them. So I think I'm going to pass on that idea and make do with what I've got. I looked again at TestPoint's mount design and I will reconsider that as an option that uses the Mark VIII mounts without the U brackets. I like how that design uses the existing holes on the car and no welding.
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:59 PM   #57
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It looks like with the transmission attached, the valve cover is not going to clear the steering shaft without it being relocated or modified. I'd like to find a way of doing this that doesn't involve widening the hole in the firewall, which would result in misaligned interior trim pieces and brake pedal interference. I got to wondering if I could shorten the steering column and add a solid coupler inside the firewall to allow a short shaft to stick out through the firewall and attach a U joint closer to the strut tower, sort of like what M.H. Yount did, but the coupler would be inside the firewall instead of outside.

Anyways, I started trying to remove the column and found these. Can anyone tell me how to remove these? Also, am I insane for thinking I can shorten the column?



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Old 11-06-2018, 07:55 PM   #58
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Did you offset the engine towards the passenger side for your mockup?
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:17 PM   #59
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hey nice job, just an idea, I had a similar problem with my heater core piping so I cut them in an angle and had them tig into a 90 degree close to the fire wall. It worked perfect fpr me because I have the egr valve right in front of it with about 2.5 inches to spare after the pipes were done . Always looking froward to your build !!
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Old 11-07-2018, 10:01 AM   #60
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There's nothing magical about where the heater hoses penetrate the firewall -- if they're in the way, move them. Easy to block off the existing holes. I did this with the swap in mine -- all 4 hoses (htr/A-C) pass through on the passenger side now.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:53 PM   #61
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There's nothing magical about where the heater hoses penetrate the firewall -- if they're in the way, move them. Easy to block off the existing holes. I did this with the swap in mine -- all 4 hoses (htr/A-C) pass through on the passenger side now.
That's a very good point and I'm almost disappointed in myself that I didn't think of that before. It's unique how Volvo has hoses inside the firewall going to both the heater and evaporator cores instead of hard lines like on, for example, my old NA Miata. I'll definitely be doing what you just suggested now...

On the engine/trans, yes, I'm moving it as close to the passenger side as I can. I've hammered out the tunnel and got an extra inch or closer to the firewall after trying that once. Could maybe hammer it a little more, but I'm having a hard time knowing exactly where interference is happening.

With the trans not attached, you can see how that fits in post 52, 5th picture specifically regarding steering shaft. It works, but with the trans not attached it's simply not accurate. With the trans attached, I see this:



The valve cover is now what is interfering. That chunk I took off of the block helps but it's not enough. I also tried lowering the crossmember and that didn't help either. Looking at that picture, if you imagine a longer slim shaft coming out through the firewall and the U joint attaching elsewhere, I think it would clear it. So the question I'm trying to answer now is can the steering column be modified to be shorter? Or maybe longer? Maybe if a solid coupler existed in that firewall hole, which is pretty large as is, I could add a short shaft and go from there. In any case, I want to get the column out just to look at it. I think I could drill out those weird bolts and use an easy-out to get them out in one piece.
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:02 PM   #62
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LOL - can’t even tell what I’m looking at in the pic above - from front of car looking at firewall? Is this block cast iron or aluminum?
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:01 PM   #63
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LOL - can’t even tell what I’m looking at in the pic above - from front of car looking at firewall? Is this block cast iron or aluminum?
That's taken standing at the driver side of the car. That yellow foam is the inside firewall insulation seen through the hole left by the vacuum booster. Black thing hitting the u joint is the engine valve cover. Block is aluminium.
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:07 PM   #64
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Just in case someone wants to follow your footsteps. Here's a 99 Cobra with no title for cheap in Central Texas. Gut the driveline and sell the body parts and it would be real cheap or maybe free.

https://killeen.craigslist.org/cto/d...742711630.html
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:04 PM   #65
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That ad has "****ing sketchy" written all over it.

To be on topic:
I've been lurking this for reading material in what little downtime I have these days, this is very nice.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:33 AM   #66
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For what it's worth, this is how you remove those bolts at the steering column. Harbor Freight easy-out kit. Aside from this particular application I highly recommend this kit. It has saved my ass multiple times.



Right now for steering, my plan is to attach a solid coupler at the column end, attach a short section to the other end of the coupler (about 6"), then replace the large black shaft with a different slimmer one. Going to try to maintain the stock U joints if possible. Parts are on the way for testing this idea out.

Tried mocking up some mounts this weekend. I removed the A/C compressor and power steering pump to get better visibility. The Mark VIII mounts seem to sit right above the stock B230 mount holes on the crossmember. I mocked up a piece of cardboard as a preliminary design. It is 3" wide like the steel stock I purchased, and if you were to unfold it, it would have sections 4", 3", and 4" long. The middle 3" section would have studs just like the B230 mounts. The blue tape represents where I'm thinking of adding a brace, though it worked quite well to maintain the shape of the cardboard in the meantime. Thoughts?



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Old 11-12-2018, 01:37 AM   #67
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To be on topic:
I've been lurking this for reading material in what little downtime I have these days, this is very nice.
Thanks!

And thank you to everyone else who has offered their insight so far and everyone who has simply chimed in to compliment the build!
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:22 AM   #68
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Another way to brace it and add some rigidity would be to place a piece of tubing sized with an ID just big enough to accept the 'long' bolt placed between the bolt holes.
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:32 PM   #69
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Great project!
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Old 11-25-2018, 06:53 PM   #70
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Another way to brace it and add some rigidity would be to place a piece of tubing sized with an ID just big enough to accept the 'long' bolt placed between the bolt holes.
Good idea. I plan to add something like that to the final design.

I've made a little bit of progress on the mounts in the form of some prototypes that will need further improvements and changes to be good enough for actual use. For now, they're just pieces of 3/16" steel tacked together to make boxes.

My friend who sold me the Mark VIII brought to my attention the actual design intent of the Mark VIII mounts. Those U brackets are supposed to sit on "saddles" and be held in place by that long bolt. The long bolt was never intended to hold the full weight of the engine. Here are some pictures I took of the donor's saddles:





I can't wait to get this POS out of my driveway...

So I mocked up some "saddles" of my own that will bolt to the original mount holes on the 240 crossmember.









You may notice some "shims" under the passenger side mount. That's because I forgot how trigonometry works and cut those angled pieces the same length as the straight driver side pieces. D'oh! There are some sections I'll need to make larger and other I"ll need to make smaller to avoid steering rack interference on the driver side. Gussets and some tube will make these pretty strong.

I gotta say, though, it felt great to finally be able to move the hoist away from the car for a minute and look at the engine sitting in there as intended. The transmission is still supported by a jack, though. That mount should be easy to make and I would have done that day it if I had enough metal leftover from making the engine mounts.




Other small updates while I'm writing:

Steering! I purchased a solid coupler from Coleman Racing that has splines on the half with the set screw and nothing on the other half. This coupler is small enough to clear the head on the engine. The splined end will connect to the column, and the other end will have a shaft welded to it. On the other end of that shaft is a splined section that attaches to the stock U joint. From there, a shaft splined on both ends will go to the other stock U joint that attaches to the rack. All I need to do is make a few cuts and a weld and it should all fit. The shafts are a 48 spline 3/4" x 12" shaft from Coleman Racing and the one that's splined on only one end I got on eBay.






Brakes! I purchased a used Hydroboost unit that came off of a 99 cobra. It fits...better than the original vacuum booster. Obviously I need to drill some new holes and stuff. Also unsure of the reliability of this used part, but hey, worst case, I have a core now.







And last, did a washer fluid delete so the Mark VIII airbox and intake tube would fit. There should be enough room for the coolant overflow tank to be relocated.

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Old 11-25-2018, 08:13 PM   #71
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FWIW - I have a smaller/more compact windshield washer unit from Jegs and the stock coolant reservoir all mounted on the driver's side -- room there because the battery was relocated to the passenger side butt cheek, and air inlet piping/filter on the passenger side like yours.


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Old 11-25-2018, 09:12 PM   #72
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FWIW - I have a smaller/more compact windshield washer unit from Jegs and the stock coolant reservoir all mounted on the driver's side -- room there because the battery was relocated to the passenger side butt cheek, and air inlet piping/filter on the passenger side like yours.
Nice! I love how clean your setup is. I've been thinking about butt cheek battery relocation. My buddy who did it on a Coyote swapped Mark VIII used the battery harness from a Lincoln LS. What did you do harness-wise to relocate your battery?

Also, what kind of radiator is that? I'm looking at reusing my Mark VIII radiator and fan but they're a little tall and I'm unsure if the original one will be able to keep up with the heat from 4.6.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:40 PM   #73
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I fabbed my own cables/etc on the battery relocate. Howe Racing in MI did the rad for me - custom.
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Old 12-20-2018, 12:59 AM   #74
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It's been a bit slow here since the cold temperatures set in. Missouri doesn't get the worst winters, but working in a non-heated non-insulated garage when it's a high of 20 for the day is just plain miserable. Luckily, this past week, it's been quite warm with temps in the mid 50s.

I revised my engine mounts with some more attention to detail around the large U brackets that will be sitting on them and steering rack interference. They're still only tacked together and far from done, but I think with one more iteration I'll have them pretty much set.

Made some moves on trans mount for the first time as well. The Mark VIII trans mount is an interesting one and I'll be chopping some parts of it off. Interestingly enough, though, it lines up nearly perfectly with the 240 crossmember. I decided to modify my crossmember so it'll fit. Next steps are to weld in a plate with two holes and cut some access holes down below for a wrench.



This meant that for the first time, the engine and trans were sitting in the car without the assistance of any jacks or hoists. Taking this picture felt pretty good.



Last, I got the steering linkage cut to length. I'm happy to say there's no more interference with the engine! The shaft coming off the rack does get a little close to the exhaust manifold, but that's fine compared to the crazy u-joint to cylinder head interference there was before.



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Old 12-20-2018, 03:53 AM   #75
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Nice job on the steering column mod - looking good dude. I understand your plan now!

As for battery relocation, in my blue wagon I'm going to put the battery in the right buttcheek and run a BMW E36 battery cable. In those cars the battery is in the trunk almost exactly where it will end up in the 240. Will come up to a junction and jump post in the engine bay somewhere near the firewall. Pre-made nice OE battery cable that was free and the right length...check.
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