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1971 142S "I'll keep this one"

vwbusman66 said:
I ordered a bunch of stuff yesterday.
Rebuilt rear calipers from HiPerfAuto, hard brake line and fittings from RockAuto, and tie rods and center link ends as well as an air filter from VP.
Hopefully, I can actually drive this car soon.
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Did you order steel brake lines or is Rock Auto listing the copper/nickel lines now?
These use a different flare than most other cars, which I'm sure you know. The fittings are different also. And if I remember correctly, they are the same as British cars.
VP offers the lines pre-lengthened with the correct flares / fittings. They just need to be bent to fit.
 
sksmith said:
Did you order steel brake lines or is Rock Auto listing the copper/nickel lines now?
These use a different flare than most other cars, which I'm sure you know. The fittings are different also. And if I remember correctly, they are the same as British cars.
VP offers the lines pre-lengthened with the correct flares / fittings. They just need to be bent to fit.
Click to expand...

I just ordered a spool a NiCopp 3/16 tubing. I'm pretty good at doing them myself.
 
Installed rebuilt rear calipers, and then promptly discovered that I have no brake fluid in the garage. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to bleed them and the DRIVE THE DAMN CAR FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 3 MONTHS WOOOHOOOO.
 
Just read this thread and the one on the 145. It reminded me of my first car days, a 1968 142S... Lots of work went into that POS on a missing student budget. Good times. :) Enjoy!
 
klr142 said:
Just read this thread and the one on the 145. It reminded me of my first car days, a 1968 142S... Lots of work went into that POS on a missing student budget. Good times. :) Enjoy!
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LOL. Thanks man! Like I said, the General Lief is one of the cars that made me fall in love with 140's and I appreciate all the help you've given me on FB over the years. Long term I'd like to do a "hot" slanted 16v in this just like your 8v is.
 
Update: the car is pretty much on hold. I thought I was going ot have to sell it yet again due to college finance bull**** but teleworking for my internship this summer has changed things. I'm trying to get the 145 driving as it's a lot closer to being done and I want to drive something soon.
 
vwbusman66 said:
Update: the car is pretty much on hold. I thought I was going ot have to sell it yet again due to college finance bull**** but teleworking for my internship this summer has changed things. I'm trying to get the 145 driving as it's a lot closer to being done and I want to drive something soon.
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Bummer, do what you can that doesn't cost much in the mean time!
 
sspony said:
Bummer, do what you can that doesn't cost much in the meantime!
Click to expand...

The money for this wasn't the issue. I was planning on driving the 145 to MI this summer for work but my parents weren't too keen on that. the plan was to sell this (as I will never let go of the 145 again) and find something a little newer and more "modern".

I need to PM/text you back. I need some shiz for the 145.
 
I've had a few questions about the T5 swap, so here are all the parts and a high-level overview of what I did to make it all work before I forget completely.

If you're thinking about doing this swap, read this document at least three times:
http://falconxl0.tripod.com/Trans_swap_v3.pdf

I'm running a Kaplhenke adapter plate and machined bellhousing. The adapter plate has the pattern for both upright and slanted orientation, allowing for the B20's upright orientation. The m46 bellhousing bolts right to the back of the B20 with no modification other than the machining done to open up the center.

- I'm using a clutch from a 4 speed 4 cylinder Mustang (Sachs SD1220).
- I have a 4 cylinder T5, I'm using the pilot bearing from a 1984 Ranger 2.2L diesel (National 202-SS).
- If you have a V8 T5, you'll want to use the pilot bearing from a 1985 Peugeot 505 (National 103-CC).
- I'm using a stock 140 pressure plate (same as early 240's as well).
- I'm using a stock 140 clutch cable, 240/740 cable clutch fork, and Yoshifab's modified T5 throwout bearing.

In terms of a driveshaft, I had a local driveshaft shop do everything. The back 1/2 of the driveshaft is 100% unmodified aside from balancing. The front half was shortened and a slip yoke was added. When I took measurements, my guy just wanted the length from the output shaft seal to the center/middle of the carrier bearing. I put the M40 with bellhousing and t5 with bellhousing side by side and basically measured how much shorter the M40 is than the T5 and then subtracted that distance from the length of the front half of the driveshaft (from the output shaft flange to the midpoint of the carrier bearing) to get the length he wanted. Your local driveshaft guru may want something completely different, but I'm yet to have an issue with mine.

I took my M40 cross member and basically kept cutting it until I could make it clear and get the T5 high enough. I then added a 5"x1/2" c channel longitudinally for the mounting pad for the transmission. It's ugly, and I'm not posting pictures of it. At the time (July of 2019), nobody was making cross members for this swap. Yoshifab now makes a $200 cross member for these cars and the T5, and that's the way I'd go if I did it again.
 
I still own this car.
Now that the 145 has been re-homed, this thing is sticking around.
The ultimate plan is some sort of 16V ITB redblock/forced induction VR6/Turbo 8V, excellent modern brakes, and a properly overhauled suspension with high quality springs/dampers.

I'm planning on having the frame rail and butt cheeks repaired/replaced in the summer of '21 or '22 by a reputable Volvo restoration shop who apparenty has NOS frame rails on hand.
 
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