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Jimbo's Green Wagon: 1972 145S

Is the vibration just in one gear or in any gear at 25 under load? Could be the trans mount... didn?t see pictures of yours, but if the trans mount is cantilevered out you can get into weird speed based load harmonics.

The cross member is straight and the mount doesn't appear torqued in either direction. As it so happens, I was wrong about the 25mph. It only happens when pulling out turning left or right.

It has nothing to do with the actual driveline. I put 10 miles on it today and discovered that the rear end is doing the same wishy-washy rear steer thing that my 244 with wasted rear bushings did. I suspect the trailing arm bushings are completely wasted (would also explain the squeaking going over bumps at low speed) and is causing all the rear end noises and clunks.
 
I've spent the last week trying to get the bushings in the rear end.
As of tonight, the driver's side is done as well as the panhard rod. Every single piece of hardware has fought me and I've had to take long breaks to avoid seriously messing stuff up. The bushings didn't really look "bad" but they were all really soft, dry rotted/cracked, and original.
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I drove an hour north to snag this fairly nice adult-level accessory.
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I've spent the last week trying to get the bushings in the rear end.
As of tonight, the driver's side is done as well as the panhard rod. Every single piece of hardware has fought me and I've had to take long breaks to avoid seriously messing stuff up. The bushings didn't really look "bad" but they were all really soft, dry rotted/cracked, and original.

Your old bushings look way better than mine did!
Nice job.
 
The supercharger isn't happening as the B20F I picked up needs a ton of machine work.

I ordered a set of overload rear springs from VP Autoparts (#683290, Lesjofors brand) in April as it was obvious the ones on the car were worn out. I finally motivated myself enough today to actually get them along with KYB Gas-A-Just shocks installed. The uninstalled height is pretty much the same between the new and original springs (maybe 1/2" difference), however, the steel used in the new springs is maybe 33% thicker than the Volvo ones. You can see the difference below. Up front, I still have the original springs along with Bilstein HD's. Long term, I'm going to lower the whole car some (1-1.5"), but would like to keep a stiff spring in the rear to allow for heavy loads. The before and after pictures both have roughly the same weight in the rear end (a set of steelies/tires, sway bar, tools, misc crap in the rear seat).

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How do you find the Gas-a-just shocks. Can?t make my mind up between them and the Excel G shocks.
 
Took me all of 4 hours to do the other side after spraying all the hardware down with PB blaster well in advance. I also got smart and bought a $4 HF deep 15/16 socket to cut 1.25" off the end of to make a shallow/deep socket I could get my breaker bar on without removing the parking brake cable.

The passenger side bushings were marginally worse.
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While the Panhard rod was off the car and it was on stands, I decided to drain and re-fill the rear end. There wasn't much fluid in there, it was nasty.
I was able to confirm that this car has a 4.10 open rear, which doesn't explain the incorrect speedo reading or rear end chatter (I was hoping it had a worn LSD or welded rear). Since the rear has always made a little noise, I refilled with 85w140 at the direction of a few OLD brickboard threads. The gear looked fairly good and had no chips or concerning wear patterns.

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I let the car sit overnight to allow all the bushings to rotate where they wanted before torquing everything. I bled the rear brakes as well while the wheels were off. I took it for a quick drive and the "rear steer" is fixed, which is good. The chatter pulling out from a stop and turning is still present but reduced by 50%, and the rear end clunks and squeaks are gone. The drive revealed that the car handles like a wet noodle up front. I realized the sway bar was already half removed because I planned on installing the IPD bar from the 142. I bit the bullet and installed it and it made a pretty impressive difference. I still plan on replacing the control arm bushings, steering arm bushing (for a brass unit), the tie rods/steering rods, and giving the car a proper alignment.

Tomorrow, it gets tagged :)
 
Tagged it and put about 100 miles on it today.

Swapped thermostats and gaskets and solved the coolant weep. Now the thing never gets up to temp because the fan clutch is aways engaged apparently.

Overall, fairly good. Driveline vibration is weird, don't know where to go with that. Alternator light faintly glows all the time. It vapor locks REALLY bad. I need to install the Recaro as I really hate the stock seat. It has a weird misfire thing it does higher up in the rev range where it'll break up and fall on it's face. I suspect the plugs are garbage and will do a full tune-up/timing adjustment. It perpetually idles high, dunno what that's about as the manifold and carb hardware is tight.

Meh. It's fun to drive, but I'm not sure if I see myself taking the car to WV in August. I don't know what I was expecting.
 
Yeah, I'm gonna be honest, I'm not impressed with this car in any capacity.
Yep, the engine makes OK power. Actually, for a B20, I'd imagine it's pretty good. My dad's 230k mile v70r in limp mode will outrun this thing, get better MPG, and be more reliable.
The suspension and steering is tight, and the thing is woefully unengaging in every corner.

Great car to look at, easy enough to work on, but absolute **** to drive in any situation other than 55 mph on scenic byways.
 
The reality of owning an old car has set in.... :lol:

My step grandfather collects cars up in Minnesota and he said he bought a restored 50s Studebaker out of nostalgia, being that It was the same year and model as his first car. when he finally drove it he said he hated it & he had forgotten how absolute **** it handled and he sold it pretty shortly after that
 
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