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My 1975 164 "build"

Maybe wire the side markers in as blinkers too, if there's any risk of not seeing those from an angle.
 
Had a couple issues and been really busy with other stuff but I'm hoping to finish this up soon. Anyways, here is the 164 as it sits right now. Kinda liking the no bumper look now. I have the earlier style grill that I think actually goes all the way down. I think I'll swap that in and see how it looks.

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The early style grill will it if you cut the 'bar' under the plastic grill. you should also grab the chrome surround that comes with the early grill.
 
skalor said:
I bought 17"x7" steelies for it and painted them silver to emulate the stock wheels. Hoping to have it on the road in late march.

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I love that look! Saw it on a black 122 on Stanceworks, and decided to go that direction on my '75 242. I was thinking of rebarelling the rear wheels so they are slightly wider, with a slightly deeper offset, rather than using spacers. And then install stock small chrome hubcaps just like I think you did.

Crazy idea, but I've also considered flipping the centers on the rear wheel, so they are concave instead of convex, for a more radical staggered look.

Keep up the great work. I'm eager to watch your progress!!
 
Swapped in the older style grill and painted the center black. I have to make up a bracket for the top of the grill sections because I seem to be missing a piece.

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B-lennium said:
Did you set the valve lash already? Don't mistake injector noise for valve clatter, they are loud!
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I checked one cylinder when I had the valve cover off and they were both at .025". I am going to adjust them a little tighter, I think the manual specs .020" to .022", but haven't had the time lately to work on it. I'm hoping to get some time this weekend. I had it idling for a while to see if it would quiet down but it didn't. It was idling for about 30 mins in 95?F humid weather and the electric fan kept it around 205?F. I still need to figure out the tach output from the microsquirt.
 
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Adjusted the valves and found that the exhaust valve on the number four cylinder was the only one that was far out of spec., about .030". I'll have to keep an eye on it in the future. Also swapped in a GM alternator off an engine I had sitting around. I was getting a lot of voltage fluctuations and I only had to modify the bracket so that it had better clearance for the fan and swapped the 164 pulley onto it. Solid 14.3v now.

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Here's how the engine bay current looks. I want to scrub it down at some point and that extra wiring by the battery is for the wideband that I used to tune cars with, so that's why it setup as a temp hookup. Just really working on the tune and putting around in it. It has a drive line vibration and I'm leaning towards it being the carrier bearing or u-joints.

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B-lennium said:
I cannibalized a toyota 7mgte for its ignition parts.
The coils are easy, the CPS is a drop in replacement after you change the 'gear' for a volvo one of your old distributor.
The aluminium hold-on thingy needs a small touch of a lath.

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more than enough resolution for full sequential ignition/injection
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:D that's awesome
 
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