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Old 05-28-2019, 01:24 PM   #1
swedish-rocket
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Default Trim Adhesive

What do you guys recommend for trim adhesive? I want to buy a decent amount to replace all my Volvo 240 trim around the doors.
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:47 PM   #2
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If you mean the cladding at the bottom of the 86-93 doors, I use the double sided 3M VHB tape.
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:58 PM   #3
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^ This. Great stuff.
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Old 05-28-2019, 03:20 PM   #4
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That’s it, I’ll try that out. Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2019, 03:56 PM   #5
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I too used the same stuff on my 245 when I redid the lower moldings but was unhappy how thick it was.

I did not like the gap it left even when adequate pressure was applied, perhaps I put the tape in the wrong place on the Moulding? Don’t know how that would affect things but it was my first time so??? I put it in the valley in the Moulding, I believe.

The body shop said that was the stuff to use but the gap was profoundly larger than the factory installation.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoNutt View Post
I too used the same stuff on my 245 when I redid the lower moldings but was unhappy how thick it was.

I did not like the gap it left even when adequate pressure was applied, perhaps I put the tape in the wrong place on the Moulding? Don’t know how that would affect things but it was my first time so??? I put it in the valley in the Moulding, I believe.

The body shop said that was the stuff to use but the gap was profoundly larger than the factory installation.
It comes in different thicknesses and widths. You can get the same thickness that Volvo used on the assembly line.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:10 PM   #7
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Do you know how thick looks good? I found a .045” version that is .5” wide.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
It comes in different thicknesses and widths. You can get the same thickness that Volvo used on the assembly line.
WELL DUHHHHH
Good thing I purchased enough to do the freakin entire length of the 245 3 times!!!

Live and learn Next time will be much better
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:05 PM   #9
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Home Depot stocks it, best price too
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:30 AM   #10
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I will measure the thickness of my remaining roll tmrw so you know what to avoid.
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:06 PM   #11
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The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!
The tool you are referring to is a 3M stripe eraser. Those will eat the trim up almost as fast as they remove the tape. I only made the mistake of using the eraser on one piece of trim. Lay out the location of the trim with blue painter's masking tape so that when you set it in place you have a guide. You only get one shot at it.
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Old 05-29-2019, 03:01 PM   #13
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What's good for gluing on "scripted emblems" like "turbo" or "intercooled?"

Thx.
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Old 05-29-2019, 03:25 PM   #14
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3M makes a clear liquid "Emblem Adhesive". It works great. Same as I said above, make sure to use a piece of tape as a guide. You don't want to move the emblem once you set it in place. It will make a huge mess if you do.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:01 PM   #15
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Gracious! Hoping a "turbo" on the gate is worth another 20 whp...
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swedish-rocket View Post
Do you know how thick looks good? I found a .045” version that is .5” wide.
^^^ .045 was what I used.....Maybe someone else will chime in with what they have used with better results?
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Old 05-30-2019, 11:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!
I used a razor blade to scrape off the old stuff. Then lightly sanded the part and used the 3m VHB tape. Not sure of the thickness but not too thick. Got a very nice tight bond to the body, no gaps and no foam showing. Looks OE. Just place the tape in the same spots as the original no need to go overboard. I also painted the trim with SEM trim black, didn't care for the faded gray look.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:10 PM   #18
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Found a pic of my finished product, I went with black bumpers because I liked the look. The Bolts holding the mud flaps were rusted on so I just left as is....

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Old 05-30-2019, 01:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoNutt View Post
Found a pic of my finished product, I went with black bumpers because I liked the look. The Bolts holding the mud flaps were rusted on so I just left as is....

Looks good.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
I used a razor blade to scrape off the old stuff. Then lightly sanded the part and used the 3m VHB tape...
I used a blow dryer as a heat gun and softened up the old adhesive and used a PLASTIC scraper on the painted surfaces. I used some kind of solvent at the end to get the last bit of sticky goop off. It worked well, but it took a long time.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I used a blow dryer as a heat gun and softened up the old adhesive and used a PLASTIC scraper on the painted surfaces. I used some kind of solvent at the end to get the last bit of sticky goop off. It worked well, but it took a long time.
That's where the stripe eraser you mentioned comes in. It removes that adhesive and left over foam rubber with ease and leaves factory paint undamaged. It is an amazing product. I can clean up all the adhesive/foam off of a door in less than 5 minutes to a spotless condition with the 3M version. Don't buy knock off, look alike products. They are crap compared to the 3M wheel.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:37 PM   #22
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I want to get one. I've seen my coworker use one and he knocked off all the goop QUICKLY.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I used a blow dryer as a heat gun and softened up the old adhesive and used a PLASTIC scraper on the painted surfaces. I used some kind of solvent at the end to get the last bit of sticky goop off. It worked well, but it took a long time.
I did the same thing, scrapped by hand.....took forever but it worked
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Old 05-30-2019, 02:43 PM   #24
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I just checked. The 0.045" thick tape is what I use. The moldings fit tight against the body. If the tape was any thinner, it would not adhere evenly to the body.
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:03 PM   #25
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The eraser wheel on the body is best but on the actual trim not so much.
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