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Old 11-11-2019, 07:15 PM   #1
Redheaded sailor bum
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Default Getting turbo redblock into the 300hp range?

Is it possible to get the redblock up higher into the 300 range without nesscetly changing out internals and still being "safe"
I'm really only running 10 pounds exhaust and intake setup and haven't looked into the options of say a bigger turbo/injectors/manifold setups/ect
I understand theres not much you can do without really messing with the train and I know about the IPD turbo cam and heard mixed reviews on the board as far as blow by and other things just curious if anyone had any idea
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Old 11-11-2019, 07:16 PM   #2
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I mean, you already threw quotes around "safe".


It's safe enough. And if you have something go wrong, you get to visit a junkyard and pick up another long block and do it again.
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Old 11-11-2019, 07:24 PM   #3
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I understand nothing is safe once you stray away from stock my plan was to try and get the current motor to the 300 range and while I use it for events and a daily I was going to get a used one and do a complete overhaul from top to bottom to swap I. Later down the road and take out the current and do the same to have a backup
I was just curious anyone knew any tride and true formulas for getting anywhere for close to 300 or even just mid 200s
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Old 11-11-2019, 07:26 PM   #4
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This is really my first redblock build everything else I've done were 850 or 960 whiteblocks
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #5
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What kind of events?

Being a daily driver in the 200-250whp range should be fairly reliable, even nearing 300whp wouldn't be to bad. But as soon as you want to take that kind and power and use it for events (be it auto-x, drift or drag) you will be putting much more stress on things over just normal daily driving which is when parts start to have issues.

What is your budget to spend?
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:56 PM   #6
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Su-Premium pump gas
8 valve head
Squirter block
RC 750 injectors
255 fuel pump fed by a stock in-tank pump
Elgin 262 turbo cam ILC @ 111°
GT3071R Turbo
3" exhaust
MaxSpeed H beam rods 152mm
Mahle turbo pistons
MS2 controlling the squirts and the VAG wasted spark coil
Head mount distributor housing morf'd into a Nissan SR20 CAS with a 24-1-1 DIY trigger wheel
20PSI boost!!!
It's more than the 300K mile 760 chassis wants, I think every rubber bushing gets fully deflected and the u joints do the watusi.
"sit down, shut up, hold on, and don't spill my beer"

The pistons are anchors (stupid heavy) I wanted to use the longer rods and a lighter custom piston (Diamond LS2K style).
The Mahle pistons come with a wrist pin heavy enough for a diesel, the piston package weighs 700+Grams, a LS2k style piston would be in the 450G range.
That is a huge savings in reciprocating mass! But 6 weeks lead time and ~$200 per piston. Rod price does not change. This package would probably need a slightly different cam to take advantage of the increased dwell time. A 16v head would add more giddy up. You could probably back off the boost to a Safer 15# and still make more power. With reduced boost spark timing could be advanced which would be a good thing [tm].
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Last edited by Dirty Rick; 11-11-2019 at 10:40 PM..
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:00 PM   #7
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Drifting mostly little bit of auto cross too

Nailing 250hp+ would be just fine for me honestly but I'm aiming for 300 cause I know it'll keep me from being board till I decide to build up a separate motor or swap it for a 2jz or 1uz or something (b8444s turbo swap if I could really get my pockets deep enough)
Right now I dont have much but over the next month or so I should be looking at 1 or 2 grand
I figured bigger turbo and injectors would be enough but wasn't sure what else I could really do
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Su-Premium pump gas
8 valve head
Squirter block
RC 750 injectors
255 fuel pump fed by a stock in-tank pump
Elgin 262 turbo cam ILC @ 111°
GT3071R Turbo
3" exhaust
MaxSpeed H beam rods
Mahle turbo pistons
MS2 controlling the squirts and the VAG wasted spark coil
Head mount distributor housing morf'd into a Nissan SR20 CAS with a 24-1-1 DIY trigger wheel
20PSI boost!!!
It's more than the 300K mile 760 chassis wants, I think every rubber bushing gets fully deflected and the u joints do the watusi.
"sit down, shut up, hold on, and don't spill my beer"
Pretty sure that's alot more than 300 Bhp ahaha
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:09 PM   #9
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get a 93 + block, throw a 50 trim turbo, a cam and some 60lb injectors along with walbro 255 pump. Maybe a tune and be marry.
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:29 PM   #10
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50 trim turbo I'm assuming you mean 850
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:35 PM   #11
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No, he means this:

https://www.ebay.com/p/1858590202?ii...hoCd9cQAvD_BwE
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:36 PM   #12
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My buddy has a GT3582 he said he'd trade me for a steering wheel and quick release I had laying around so I'll probably go with that and another guy from a local volvo group said he had I wanna say 450cc injectors that would work and I'll price out some pumps down the road
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Oh ahahaha
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:43 PM   #14
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Also, HP isn't what breaks stuff. Torque does, at at 300 hp you will be making a decent amount more torque than 300 ftlbs. From my research when I built my last B230FT, IF you are using the latest version of the block the weakest link is the rods. You want H beam rods for over 350 ftlbs, if this is old info or incorrect I'm sure someone will chime in.

The tune is also what really breaks stuff on any motor when attempting to double the power output.

I ran the above turbo at 15 psi with #46 injectors and a 3" maf, external wastegate and bypass valve. It was way too much for stock tires for sure, and would rip power burnouts with 225's on the rear on demand.

There is so much info on this site about what you want to do, so here is what I am surprised you haven't been told yet: "Search!" come back with more specific questions.
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:08 PM   #15
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I have done research as far as what other people believe and I understand the rods being the weak links I was just curious on what everyone here's formula is
300hp is probably more than I need if I'm just sliding sideways half the time
Mid 200s is probably more realistic
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:21 PM   #16
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It got figured out years ago and everybody but Texas240 is overthinking it.

My setup I was able to beat the crap out of for years with little issue was as follows:
unopened unknown mileage 91 b230F
stock 530 head
oem style elring headgasket
3-4 times used stock headbolts
RSI stage 3 cam
mild steel sch 40 header
holset he351cw
ebay 38mm gate
ID1000 injectors
ebay ****ty intercooler
3" exhaust
Megasquirt n spark 1 - extra running a stock lh2.2 distributor

made 350whp on 19 psi on e85 and I hammered on it relentlessly for 3-4 years before I blew it up from running it lean when I had a pump die.
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:24 PM   #17
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Then get that turbo, injectors, maf, ebay intercooler, TLOA chips, 3" turboback exhaust, wideband cause I'm tired of seeing ventilated blocks, turn boost up till wideband says stop, dial back a notch, enjoy. Megasquirt and H beam rods if ya wanna go a bit harder. Very very easy to get mid 200s.

Not recommending this, but I used the combo in my previous post with no chips or tuning. This resulted in ok afr ratios but not ideal, a rough idle, and enormous flames from the exhaust during hard driving shifts. But you need all those parts to achieve a rough balance between air and fuel. 3" Maf alone = very lean. Injectors only = way too rich. More boost = rod exiting block sideways.

There are a lot of ways to do this, I'm sure you will hear more.
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Then get that turbo, injectors, maf, ebay intercooler, TLOA chips, 3" turboback exhaust, wideband cause I'm tired of seeing ventilated blocks, turn boost up till wideband says stop, dial back a notch, enjoy. Megasquirt and H beam rods if ya wanna go a bit harder. Very very easy to get mid 200s.

Not recommending this, but I used the combo in my previous post with no chips or tuning. This resulted in ok afr ratios but not ideal, a rough idle, and enormous flames from the exhaust during hard driving shifts. But you need all those parts to achieve a rough balance between air and fuel. 3" Maf alone = very lean. Injectors only = way too rich. More boost = rod exiting block sideways.

There are a lot of ways to do this, I'm sure you will hear more.
no, just throw LH away. Any sort of LH tuning is just a bandaid.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:05 AM   #19
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LH handled it ok, a fine balance between the injectors and maf handled it, I was monitoring it. But that is why I said I don't recommend it. TB ziptie and duct tape stuff is what it was. I daily drove it though with no problems except for the flame shooting thing. I didn't really mind that though lol

Pretty sure the OP is not gonna be well versed in Tunerstudio or similar programs, so that is why I recommended TLOA chips. They actually handle a decent amount of mods.

I have several hours in tuning the Megasquirt in my '79 EFI conversion and it still needs a bit more work. Then the season changes and it needs even more...
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
no, just throw LH away. Any sort of LH tuning is just a bandaid.
For someone with mediocre experience who wants reliable power.

TLAO gets along just fine (fairly well I'd wager) but he's sort of/is an expert at manipulating lh2.4 with good results.

Better turbo, fuel system that will feed it, microsquirt running wasted spark, 1/2 decent exhaust manifold and exhaust, cheapo intercooler, and away you go.

If you make the HG the weak spot, you'll push the gasket before you bend rods (maybe... hopefully).
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the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
LH handled it ok, a fine balance between the injectors and maf handled it, I was monitoring it. But that is why I said I don't recommend it. TB ziptie and duct tape stuff is what it was. I daily drove it though with no problems except for the flame shooting thing. I didn't really mind that though lol

Pretty sure the OP is not gonna be well versed in Tunerstudio or similar programs, so that is why I recommended TLOA chips. They actually handle a decent amount of mods.

I have several hours in tuning the Megasquirt in my '79 EFI conversion and it still needs a bit more work. Then the season changes and it needs even more...
are you running maf or speed denisty (MAP)?
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:19 AM   #22
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I was running a 3" MAF from a 960. That car caught terminal cancer, I sold the motor and all the parts. Ran it for 15 years though. Now an LS swap kinda guy, you saw my build thread. My other old car, 79 242, is stock except for Megasquirt EFI conversion which uses a MAP sensor built into the Megasquirt brain.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
It got figured out years ago and everybody but Texas240 is overthinking it.

My setup I was able to beat the crap out of for years with little issue was as follows:
unopened unknown mileage 91 b230F
stock 530 head
oem style elring headgasket
3-4 times used stock headbolts
RSI stage 3 cam
mild steel sch 40 header
holset he351cw
ebay 38mm gate
ID1000 injectors
ebay ****ty intercooler
3" exhaust
Megasquirt n spark 1 - extra running a stock lh2.2 distributor

made 350whp on 19 psi on e85 and I hammered on it relentlessly for 3-4 years before I blew it up from running it lean when I had a pump die.
Just realized you recommend a cummins turbo ahaha
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:34 AM   #24
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What's the common injector size people run
What size intercooler
And any particular wideband (I see bosch makes one)
And where do you guys get the tola chips from

Last edited by Redheaded sailor bum; 11-12-2019 at 12:42 AM..
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:35 AM   #25
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Lots of school buses in the junkyard lol, that's how Holsets find their way into Volvos...even though they are huge castings compared to Garrett. The price is right for used ones.
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