For use in an automatic equipped B230, the K cam would benefit from being set up with valve clearances on the looser side of spec(0.018", or even 0.020" if you don't mind some more valvetrain noise), and being advanced 2, 4 or 6? from straight up. The more advanced it is(up until a point where it's just horrible up top), the more torque you'll have at low rpm at the expense of the torque curve falling off at an earlier rpm. I will try to get some dyno charts loaded up when I have a chance later showing this as my previous posts about it don't have working pictures anymore.
If you have control over the ignition timing(Ostrich emulator for LH2.4 or just twisting the distributor on earlier FI systems), that will help the overall torque production as well. Tuning the fuel side of things can also help if running LH2.4, as the stock tuning is junk at high load off idle(super lean). If you stomp on a stock, automatic LH2.4 car from a stop, it usually does a little lean bog first before picking up and going. If you roll into the throttle while brake torquing, it'll stay in closed loop better and maintain at least a stoich mixture.
If you want to take it a step further and have more power than stock everywhere, you'll want to pull the cylinder head and put on a thinner headgasket targeting between .030"-.040" or 0.8-1mm squish/quench clearance between the piston and cylinder head surface, generally speaking(some have gone with even closer clearance, but usually not on something that's revving over 6,000rpm). If you're going to that extent, you might as well have the head checked out, the valve grind redone and while resurfacing, take at least .020" off, if not .030, or potentially even more. Once you raise the compression by installing that thinner headgasket and shaving some off the cylinder head's mating surface, you won't really be able to run anything other than premium fuel with stock ignition advance in most circumstances. If you just do the thinner headgasket and only take a little bit off the head, you might be fine still on regular octane fuel but you will have to try it and find out.
If you do all that, you'll be pretty close to the max preferred operating range of the stock NA injectors and tuning(but people have run them at even higher power levels). The white top, 16V injectors are a good drop in if you start doing much more than that(port work, larger valves, better flowing intake and exhaust).