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What to upgrade on suspension

hessam69

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Location
Sydney, Australia
Hi,

I have a standard 1990 240 sedan which I'd like to improve the handling.

Without fitting coilovers, what are the struts and bushings to get? I already have kings lowering springs. I'd like to replace all the worn bushings also and the strut mounts too. I have a pair of adjustable rear torque arms.

It's a road car that will see some spirited driving sometimes. I don't mind a harsher ride and more NVH.

Any advice appreciated

Thank you
 
Gaz adjustables have been far superior to any comparably priced, readily available option I've tried on 240s over the last 12 years. I highly recommend them (and buying from Classic Swede!)

For a street car with the listed springs that sees some spirited driving, I'd go with Genuine Volvo bushings.

For strut mounts, I'd take a look at Kaplhenke's offset spherical mounts: https://www.bneshop.com/collections/240/products/240-spherical-offset-strut-mounts

I would also consider lower chassis braces if you don't already have them, and a larger diameter front swaybar.
 
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Without fitting coilovers, what are the struts and bushings to get? I already have kings lowering springs. I'd like to replace all the worn bushings also and the strut mounts too. I have a pair of adjustable rear torque arms.

The general consensus for bushings that I have seen is polyurethane bushings for the front control arms, torque rods, and panhard bar. Rubber bushings for the big rear trailing arm ones.

The biggest difference I felt was going from busted control arm bushings to polyurethane with the chassis braces. The steering feel was excellent.
 
I would also consider lower chassis braces if you don't already have them.

I agree 100%. My 245 currently has stock springs up front and overload springs in the rear. Handling was awful until I installed the lower chassis braces from Yoshifab. It is still not amazing but the handling has improved dramatically.
 
I would refit bushings with new rubber. On a car with 30 year old rubber, new makes a difference. Plus, they're quiet and maintenance-free. Poly are not.
 
Id avoid poly everywhere on the rear suspension.
Rubber + sphericals is the combo I prefer.

Poly is fine for front control arms and swaybars.
 
Right. The sway bars and front A-arms rotate around a single axis. The rear suspension needs to be able to twist in order for the suspension to move. That's why poly lasts less than 10,000 miles in the rear. It is a huge waste of money.
 
Poly is overrated, yes. Threw most of it out. Every time car got better without it. Especially upgrading to rubber/spherical joints.

How to improve handling? Depending on the condition of the car and how it is now, the upgrade path is different. Riding around on dry rotted 14" air ride wheels? Start with tires. Have a wide-ish set of at least 15" wheels with fresh summer tires? probably leave them on for a while before the wheels are a limit.

Especially the spherical trailing arm bushings and hybrid torque rods have made a huge difference (rear axle) together with roll center correction spacers after lowering.
 
What about the panhard bar? Poly, rubber or spherical joints?

I've used all three on panhards.
If it's for street use and you would rather not hear a lot of loud, disturbing cracking and popping noises coming through the car, stay away from spherical joints. Poly will still make noises, but not as much. Rubber will be quietest, but will of course deflect the most.
Dave B
 
I’m using the spherical rear bushings from BNE- along with all poly IPD adjustable bars- it’s not that noisy at all. 8” rear springs with 250 lbs and a 25 mm rear bar. Very solid when I nail it.
A little bouncy with some S10 Bili HD’s .
 
What about the panhard bar? Poly, rubber or spherical joints?

From my experience, a Panhard bar with full rod ends does not need to float like the torque rods do to maintain proper suspension compliance and ride quality. It also does not seem to transmit NVH like the torque rods do.

So thats why we only offer a full spherical panhard bar, ATM.

If we come across a reason to offer one with a rubber bushing integrated, we can but I have not seen that there is sufficient demand for something like that which would end up being a bit more money to make and sell.
 
I've used all three on panhards.
If it's for street use and you would rather not hear a lot of loud, disturbing cracking and popping noises coming through the car, stay away from spherical joints. Poly will still make noises, but not as much. Rubber will be quietest, but will of course deflect the most.
Dave B

Do you have a clutch diff?

If there is demand I am sure we could make or source a link that has a rubber or nylon bushing integrated on the chassis side for an upcharge.
 
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Id avoid poly everywhere on the rear suspension.
Rubber + sphericals is the combo I prefer.

Poly is fine for front control arms and swaybars.
And motor mounts. I have gone back to cobbling the one we discussed. I have to use a steel Sleeve for mine, you can use whatever you machine. So i?m eyeing upper 240 torque rod bushings for a fancy one. They should be readily available.

Regarding panhards, Patches got delrin on one end, spherical on the other.
 
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