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Svea - 1968 220 -

cwdodson88 said:
As far as? the difference between the head and manifolds, or flow numbers? I dont really have a proper flow bench, so I have no numbers there... basically what I did to the head before was to just take the ridge behind the exhaust valve out, and then I went through with 100,320,and 600 grit paper over the whole thing just to clean and smooth the casting imperfections, so its probably a ton better than stock but not Phil Singher better :-P This round I think I will take the die grinder to the area around the guide and get that looking better, and I've been tossing around the idea of having the guide run to the roof. For matching to the manifolds I'll bolt the intake and exhaust on since they have the locating pins to keep everything going on the same every time and I have some graphite powder spray to shoot down the ports and give me a guide to port the manifolds to.
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I am interested to see how people handle the area around the exhaust guide. I don't have a flow bench but used a vacuum cleaner to "thread" things to see where the air wanted to go. Some people seem to completely remove and radius the guide bump. I went with smoothing it a bit but focusing on biasing things on the outside radius. More room for a nice bend and since most of the flow should be coming from the center of the cylinder is makes sense that is where it would want to go.
 
My plan is to do similar to what Canuck did, like so
Canuck - B20 head porting thread
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Really my main focus this go around is the casting around the guide, I will try to blend the casting to the guide toward the port exit, and create a small rounded channel extending from the back wall at the center of the guide blending around to the port exit making a slight widows peak at the very back of the guide splitting it towards either side.

So carving out red areas a bit, and then blending an smoothing over the yellow
 

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Small update. Just got a call from the machine shop, block is bored, cleaned, new wrist pin bushings pressed, and ready for me to take it home and measure my deck and tell him how much to take off the top, then it’ll go back for the deck, into the tank, and get new cam bearings... So I should have it back next week for final assembly of the block.

In other news, closing date is set on my new house, and going to be moving in about 2 weeks. So I’ll probably wait to assemble until I get in to my garage.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
Would he let you dummy it up on a stand in his shop early one morning and don't bother taking it anywhere? Then, let him store/complete it while you move?

Cylinder head looks nice.
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his shop space and storage space is tiny... I asked, even tried to bribe by leaving my extra stand and a 6 pack, but he was afraid that something would get lost/stolen... He would like to be able to lock the doors when hes done but too many customers need to come in after hours to pick up and drop off. He works 8-5 and the counter boys are there 7-6 so...

That head is Canucks, I plan to work something close, we shall see.
 
So I got my block home and measured the deck, looks like I need to have .030 taken off, leaving my highest piston flush with the deck, and the lowest one at .002 below the deck. So dropping that off on my lunch, and should get it back next Friday or so. The other half is going to be so glad that we have a garage to put this all together in, we will just say that my idea of putting together the motor in the living room didnt go over very well. :-P
 
So after a giant show, I finally got moved in to my new house. I didnt think it was actually going to happen, then after a bunch of BS from the lender on the sale of my old house I was told the day before signing (Wednesday) that I needed to have the house cleared by Friday at 5:00pm :wtf::rofl::omg:

I cant describe the entire situation without using the the word CLUSTER. Anywho, 6 hours after getting the keys and BAM!
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQMFlDQnNMdV9TdlE/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQZGtQTzVnSlN4M0U/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQaXl3Tjd0MktpaGM/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

Now I have to get to it and start unpacking tools and car parts. Hopefully the house projects will be slow to start and I can have my evenings to get some things done before IPD.
 
I am literally in exactly the same position right now, with the same model of car no less.
Having trouble finding a place to park the car until I can get the house unpacked.
 
^ Nice. I just got all my tools and parts unpacked. Tonight will be spent draining fluids and tearing the front end down, removing the blown motor, and whatnots.
 
cwdodson88 said:
Well, I got that D-jet intake installed. Need to clean up some more under hood wiring. For now its kinda being sideburnered until next month when I get my wilwood calipers for the front. I've decided to sell my house and find one with a garage so I've gotta finish up some house projects.
IMG_2596%5B1%5D.JPG
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Where did you get those injector housings, are they for sale somewhere or do i have to get lucky at the JY? I'm planning to squirt my PV, already have a "E" head and all electronic stuff.
 
RolinOldies said:
Where did you get those injector housings, are they for sale somewhere or do i have to get lucky at the JY? I'm planning to squirt my PV, already have a "E" head and all electronic stuff.
Click to expand...

Those are k-jet B20 injector holders. They were only used on the k-jet b20 cars, and I dont know off the top of my head what years. Hi-Performance (if you google them) is a good start if you are looking for a set, Ian and Eric are nice guys and they might have a set in stock. If not, I have a set that were reamed our (rather crudely) that work "ok" but have leak issues above 15psi.

If you have all the other stuff, a d-jet rail/holders/injectors is pretty sweet, and they flow enough to support ~150-200 hp depending on fuel pressure.
 
It seems like the k-jet only was used in early 240 series B20, 1974-1975.
I have some LH injectors on the shelve so i was hoping to use them (as i understand well these Kjet holders need to be reamed then), but sourcing these holders might get more difficult than going D-jet, of fabricate something myself...
I might want to take a look at your set but i'm in Europe (Belgium) :-P

BTW, very nice build your estate!
 
RolinOldies said:
It seems like the k-jet only was used in early 240 series B20, 1974-1975.
I have some LH injectors on the shelve so i was hoping to use them (as i understand well these Kjet holders need to be reamed then), but sourcing these holders might get more difficult than going D-jet, of fabricate something myself...
I might want to take a look at your set but i'm in Europe (Belgium) :-P

BTW, very nice build your estate!
Click to expand...

Yeah, the k-jet b20s are kind of a rare beast. If you cant find holders, weld tabs to the intake manifold and use a press in steel bung for the head, or have bungs welded to the intake.

I started making a new tank before the move and I guess I never posted it up here so heres a start to that.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQTUM3Zm9zU3J1WXM/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQYkJqbHNXWnRtUUk/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQb2txdk9vbEw1UVk/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQVW90bVRlS25UY2c/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQVVZRT1BKRFNZSWM/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQSHpoQl9vb0JDZ00/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

And I started a new gauge cluster. It will have a 3,3/8" speed and tach, then 2" for fuel, boost, afr, coolant, oil press, volts
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQTmxkRkIyQ2ZZTmc/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQN3czTVY1UXBNZ3c/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQWDhJMThYYXpHTGs/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQSnJPRHhxQlhOVXc/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

New bottom end back fresh from machine.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQVEJubHRvZGZIa0U/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQZVotOVFPbDAxWjQ/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQS1VzSTJ3ZXNGSU0/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

So I got some stuff done this weekend. New bottom end is together, painted and sealed up, ready for drop in later this week.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQTnBadkVEeVhOc0E/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

I cc'd my head and came out to a static 9.54:1 CR, so thats pretty cool (I forgot to take pics). I couldnt find a decent valve spring compressor that wasnt a week away so I said F**K it and decided not to do any re-porting :roll: Oh well, I'll probably pop the head off this winter to give me something to do.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQSDV4dWV1cjdNM2M/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

New ARP studs installed.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQV2prdnNUZjdOZW8/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

I also picked up an angled flanged hotside, but I dont think I'll have time to refab a downpipe before IPD. New wheels will be here tomorrow, and new tires are at the shop waiting. So some new shoes for the Volvo. I also snagged a set of flares, they may or may not work out exactly as planned, but no time to turn back now.
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQdVlReVRBQ2wtTkU/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
 
:omg: <iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQTkYweTlOWU53cTA/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe> :rofl::wtf::-D:nod:
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9M6uoq2GqnQOHVWZ25LX0gtc0U/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>
 
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Dan820 said:
9.5" wide huh? Guess the flares make more sense now, lol.

They do look good though. How wide a tire you going to try to fit?
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Tires... welp I decided on a 245/40/17 at the recommendation of some members here. Looks like they will stretch a tiny bit, but that will help with sway bar/frame rail clearance at full lock. These are going together with a 32mm spacer, so effective offset at -27mm :omg: but they clear the brakes, steering, and give me the poke I was looking for. Just the rims and spacers without tires, the stickout is about 1,1/4" but the wheel arch is getting cut up a bit so the stock 1" flare is coming off and a set of 2.75" flares are going on. The tire/rim will be close to flush with these, and I should gain about 1.5-2" of upward clearance (if that makes any sense).

New engine will go in tonight, and wheels will get another test fit tomorrow. No engine last night so I couldnt load the suspension to get mock up at ride height. Then I can start fitting the flares, and hopefully get my break in done on Saturday. I took Monday-Wednesday off work to get everything buttoned up for IPD.
 
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Dan820 said:
Should be no problem with all the clearance you're making. I'm running 235/45 in the rear and 225/45 up front with stock sheetmetal and 0 Offset.
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And those are 8" wide? And no rolling? Thats pretty cool.

I'm thinking that these, with the flares will give me the look I wanted. I will probably need to get a rack/pinion steering setup after a while. Not too sure how the box is going to like moving that much tire.
 
Depends how sticky a tire you run too. When I had contipros on this it was HELL turning the wheel at low speed. Now it has primesport POS tires on it (which I hate) and it's a lot easier to turn. Same section width for both.
 
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