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Old 01-30-2021, 08:02 PM   #51
dl242gt
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BTW that round connector for the oil pressure contact is supposed to have two little locking tabs on it. That's how it locks in place. The round plastic barrel splits and unsnaps apart and you can buy a new plastic housing for the contact from Davebarton.com.
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1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration.

1993 245 Classic, 430k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 01-30-2021, 10:36 PM   #52
ZVOLV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Check for rotted wiring under the driver carpet area for the headlight relay.
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Old 01-30-2021, 11:22 PM   #53
DavePolyakov
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Ok, definitely should have checked this first but the problem was my cheap h13 Led adapters from Amazon. The connections were loose and I tightened them and it's all good now. Still doesn't explain why the Kenwood randomly turned on today after refusing to for several days. Even though my voltage when I'm driving is ok I'm still concerned why two different battery testers at Oreilly said failed voltage regulator after I replaced it with a brand new one.

With my wipers on, the 12-inch subwoofer booming, the heater on full blast, and headlights on, the voltage was below 12.6. Can't say I'm surprised the alternator can't keep up with the subwoofer but considering I live in Seattle and almost always drive with my wipers, heater, and headlights, would I see an increase in voltage if I bought a new alternator?

Last edited by DavePolyakov; 01-31-2021 at 03:24 AM..
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Old 01-31-2021, 11:57 AM   #54
philski o'flood
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take your alt off the car, clean it up a bit and take to the auto parts store for a testing
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