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Old 11-12-2019, 12:40 AM   #26
2turbotoys
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I told you about the chips.. the injectors #46, they are from a high output Mustang or something, I bought them from the the same guy you need to ask about chips, TLOA. He sold them in flowmatched sets. Thelostartof is the man for LH chips.
Do a Turbobricks Google site search for CX Racing intercooler kit. That gives you what you need.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:41 AM   #27
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I've seen my fair share of old Cummins turbos things are built really well
I'm gonna keep my eye out for one but if my buddy still has this GT3582 I'll grab it from him
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:22 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
For someone with mediocre experience who wants reliable power.

TLAO gets along just fine (fairly well I'd wager) but he's sort of/is an expert at manipulating lh2.4 with good results.

Better turbo, fuel system that will feed it, microsquirt running wasted spark, 1/2 decent exhaust manifold and exhaust, cheapo intercooler, and away you go.

If you make the HG the weak spot, you'll push the gasket before you bend rods (maybe... hopefully).
not really, he had to run 10psi more than I did to make less power with a very similar setup.

Wasted spark isn't needed and just adds further complexity. I got by just fine with a distributor and didn't have any of the issues the n00bz have with setting up wasted spark/COP setups. It's dead nuts reliable and every parts house had what I needed. Its a 350 hp car, not an 800hp car.

The only part which costs dollars which I recommend buying to everybody going down this road is the injectors. The ID1000s were worth every bit of the $480 I paid for them. Idled like glass at 750-800rpm and a 14.5:1 AFR even on batch fire.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:27 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Redheaded sailor bum View Post
I've seen my fair share of old Cummins turbos things are built really well
I'm gonna keep my eye out for one but if my buddy still has this GT3582 I'll grab it from him
The 3582 is a bit too much turbo for what you are trying to do and will be pretty lazy depending on the hot side you run.

Also, the he341/351 is the ticket. They are the newer designs of the non-VGT turbos and don't have super huge hotsides on them like the hx35s/wh1cs.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:29 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Redheaded sailor bum View Post
What's the common injector size people run
What size intercooler
And any particular wideband (I see bosch makes one)
And where do you guys get the tola chips from
just buy a do88 drop in intercooler so you don't have to mess with new pipes.

AEM wideband. cheap, simple, effective.
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:22 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Redheaded sailor bum View Post
Pretty sure that's alot more than 300 Bhp ahaha
Stans HP calculator says 306hp applying 20# boost to a 130hp motor not including thermal rise degradation. That is not a gonzo cam... and the intercooler is not that good.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:23 AM   #32
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not really, he had to run 10psi more than I did to make less power with a very similar setup.

Wasted spark isn't needed and just adds further complexity. I got by just fine with a distributor and didn't have any of the issues the n00bz have with setting up wasted spark/COP setups. It's dead nuts reliable and every parts house had what I needed. Its a 350 hp car, not an 800hp car.

The only part which costs dollars which I recommend buying to everybody going down this road is the injectors. The ID1000s were worth every bit of the $480 I paid for them. Idled like glass at 750-800rpm and a 14.5:1 AFR even on batch fire.
I have to agree with Asher and disagree but mostly agree for once. The TLAO chips works decent on a 8v setup with a 15g but to a point they started to not get the job done. His 16v chips were pieces of ****. I used his chips on a 15g, V cam, dirty brown tops, 3" maf and made 191HP, 228TQ at the wheel at 16.39psi and it felt weak.

Like I said, they work for daily driving but other than that ditch LH and go with the stated above/ Good cam, 50trim turbo or about, 35-60lb injectors, 3in maf and a good exhaust manifold.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:04 PM   #33
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F392309125880

Anyone use something like this?
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:33 PM   #34
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If there is anything to cheap out on, itís not injectors.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:38 PM   #35
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Yeah. You walk a narrower and narrower path in regards to tuning as the HP goes up. And little things like a weak injector aren't picked up on by a WB gauge, they just read the overall mix from all 4. A weak injector, runs a little lean in one cylinder, before long you've got a bent rod or a destroyed piston.

Ping, ping boom. Only you don't always hear the 'ping'.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:01 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
not really, he had to run 10psi more than I did to make less power with a very similar setup.
Come on man.... I made 300whp @20psi on LH on Pump gas with the hy35cw. So you made 50whp more with higher CR, larger turbo, better tuning, external WG and e85. I was still running the stock internal WG just ported with a larger puck installed. So on paper I think those all seem like fair gains. Running that same turbo now on MS let me get it dyno'd again once I get this head back on and let us see what I can do with MS.

And I 100% agree MS is the way to go for making proper power. Problem for most is the learning curve in wiring and tuning. I love my MS car and setup, but as the same time my LH car while annoying also works out but then again I have been doing it for a little longer than most.

To the OP that is a 600+HP turbo, pointless to run it on LH and only make 300hp, you can do that with a lot less turbo.

As others have said here the formula has been here for a while for 300hp, while you can do it on LH, MS is fairly cheap and easy if you have the know how. A Microsquirt running the stock coil and dist are simple to wire up.

Turbo wise you have a lot of smaller options over the gt35 that range from bolt on to needing a custom manifold (worth it as I gained around 30+whp once I ditched the stock exhaust manifold). After that basics, upgraded IC, full 3" exhaust, any aftermarket Cam and then proper injectors and pumps and other little supporting mods.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:16 PM   #37
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Come on man.... I made 300whp @20psi on LH on Pump gas with the hy35cw. So you made 50whp more with higher CR, larger turbo, better tuning, external WG and e85. I was still running the stock internal WG just ported with a larger puck installed. So on paper I think those all seem like fair gains. Running that same turbo now on MS let me get it dyno'd again once I get this head back on and let us see what I can do with MS.
Iím pretty sure you were running 25-28 psi and e85 when you actually made the number after a bunch of different ****ing around to make it happen. I remember being shocked at how disappointing the numbers were for the amount of boost you were running. Also, the point wasnít about measuring dicks, it was about how ****ing around with LH at that power level isnít worth it. Also, Iím done with messing around with redblocks to make power as the ROI isnít there when it comes to outright power and power delivery.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:33 PM   #38
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Might of been someone else, when I ran 25psi and a few more mods on LH I peaked around 350whp or so on e85 on the same long block through an aw71.

And for sure bang for the buck v8 swap +turbo is light years ahead of a redblock. But for most making sub 300hp for a fun DD you can do it cheap. But at a point (400+whp) these cars can become undrivable on the street without a lot more $$$ on the chassis.
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:08 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
The 3582 is a bit too much turbo for what you are trying to do and will be pretty lazy depending on the hot side you run.

Also, the he341/351 is the ticket. They are the newer designs of the non-VGT turbos and don't have super huge hotsides on them like the hx35s/wh1cs.
HE351 and GT3582R are pretty close in terms of wheel diameters, for the record. The Holset has a larger compressor but the Garrett has a larger turbine.

Compressor
HE351CW: 86mm exducer
GT3582R: 82mm exducer

Turbine
HE351CW: 65mm inducer
GT3582R: 68mm inducer
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:17 PM   #40
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a 3076r on the blue 242 I worked on over the past few years turned in 300+ whp fairly easily while having good 'response', reckon it all depends on desired powerband and what not.
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:14 PM   #41
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HE351 and GT3582R are pretty close in terms of wheel diameters, for the record. The Holset has a larger compressor but the Garrett has a larger turbine.

Compressor
HE351CW: 86mm exducer
GT3582R: 82mm exducer

Turbine
HE351CW: 65mm inducer
GT3582R: 68mm inducer
Well, thats also considering he is using a genuine 3582...

but also goes to what I was saying. On a fairly stock motor arrangement, the 3582 will be a bit lazy. Especially if only 300-350whp is what is wanted.
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:22 PM   #42
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A 3582 is definitely overkill for 300-350whp, for sure. It's more like a ~500-600whp turbo. But then again I'd argue that any Holset from a later 5.9L Cummins is also oversized...main difference is price. One is OE and easy to get cheap, the other isn't.
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:37 PM   #43
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I feel like the id1000 injectors might be a little bit overkill I'm looking at delphi 17113814 I figured if I'm running high 200s 65lb injectors would be more than enough
My problem now is with the welded diff in the rain the car is so hard to keep from sliding all over the place but on dry pavement it just needs a little bit more power to break traction when I need it
I'm just not even sure what to look for as far as injectors other than being low impertinence ev1s
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:07 PM   #44
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I ran these on the redblock link
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:54 PM   #45
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I ran these on the redblock link
I thought I needed low impedance
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:11 PM   #46
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I thought I needed low impedance
One of the other. I can't remember. Maybe some one can chime in what you need. Its been 5 years since I was redblock. You can run low or high but one needs a resister pack. I ran those injectors at one point or time.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:26 PM   #47
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The ones I used were 46 lb injectors from a 80's HO Ford of some sort, they just fit in my 740 T but had to double oring the top and bottom to seal correctly. I alternated between 2.5 and 3 bar regulators to get the correct one, also don't remember where it ended up. Maybe TLOA remembers the injectors he used to sell long ago, but they worked great with the combo I listed several posts ago and that he cosigned in his post. The balance between the injectors and the 3" MAF is how I got away with no chips or tuning. Not ideal, but it is OG Turbobrick ziptie and ducktape engineering. I daily drove it like that for over 10 years, running 22 psi on a 15G, then doing the T3/T04E turbo at 15 PSI. Like I said, the only problems were a slightly rough idle, and throwing huge flames out the tail pipe occasionally while shifting at high RPMs. If you consider that a problem...I didn't.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:10 AM   #48
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There are lots of good online injector sizing calculators, such as:
https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-inje...ze-calculator/

If you're using E85, your injectors will need to be ~50% bigger. Also, compared to NA calculations, extra fuel is dumped into turbo engines at higher boost to help cool the air. Better injector sizing calculators include this (~.65 bsfc turbo vs ~.5 bsfc NA). For duty cycle, 80% or 85% max is reasonable.

If you have a turbo LH ECU and the original greentop turbo injectors, they're lowZ. The resistor pack effectively converts them to highZ. If you're buying new injectors, just get highZ and bypass the resistor pack. Neither the LH ECU nor a MegaSquirt can drive lowZ injectors directly (without the R pack).
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:41 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Redheaded sailor bum View Post
I feel like the id1000 injectors might be a little bit overkill I'm looking at delphi 17113814 I figured if I'm running high 200s 65lb injectors would be more than enough
My problem now is with the welded diff in the rain the car is so hard to keep from sliding all over the place but on dry pavement it just needs a little bit more power to break traction when I need it
I'm just not even sure what to look for as far as injectors other than being low impertinence ev1s
for high 200's you could get away with 42-50lb/hr injectors just fine. Myself i did my 350whp on LH with 75lb/hr injectors on e85 and I was still rich on the big end. Sure I might of been near the end of the DC on them. If you do get the GT3582 then sure 65lb would be a good start with the 012 (3" amm)

For LH on a turbo car you want Low impedance if you want to bolt in, if you find a deal on high impedance get those and just bypass the resistor pack.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:28 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Neither the LH ECU nor a MegaSquirt can drive lowZ injectors directly (without the R pack).
Ooopsie!

A MicroSquirt will not run low impedance injectors without resistors,
however a MS2/3 with a v3.0 or v3.57 main board will run low impedance injectors without resistors, by using PWM.

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